Krylon Fusion paint question

The can states "recoat in less than 24 hours or more than 7 days". Suppose that means 7 days for a full cure?

I'm between 1 and 7 days now, and am concerned about masking.

The surface is dry to the touch, but I don't want to make an impression in the surface with the masking tape.

Suppose I should just wait until next weekend?

I would grap a spare model or some sheet plastic and test it out if you want to be absolutely sure. Having said that, I would think you should be okay with tamiya masking tap or other masking tapes, aka..low tack, as long as it has been at least 24 hours.

Greg

In my limited experience with Krylon paint, it is good after 24 hours. But my experience is limited, I used it only twice.

I painted some plastic shelves from Lowe's with fusion glossy, and gave them a weekend with a fan blowing them on them to cure. haven't had any problems with them. The paint was touchable within a few minutes.

Njc--------------------

Wait 24 hours, then your safe. Just make sure you shake the can for two minutes to get the paint mixed correctly.
In an hour, you can sand the first layers with 800 and higher grit without too much of a problem for multiple layers.
Did that with 4 pinewood derby cars the last two weeks. Brought home two trophies today from the race and now on to districts.

Originally posted by tripoli@Feb 4 2006, 09:58 PM
Wait 24 hours, then your safe.Â* Just make sure you shake the can for two minutes to get the paint mixed correctly.
In an hour, you can sand the first layers with 800 and higher grit without too much of a problem for multiple layers.
Did that with 4 pinewood derby cars the last two weeks.Â* Brought home two trophies today from the race and now on to districts.

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Yeah I shook for the standard 30 seconds, and the paint was going on WAY thin... So I shook some more.

I got OFFICIAL word from Krylon that spray paint (I assume all of them) takes 7 days to completely dry. Maybe longer if it's humid...

Originally posted by BlindSquirrel@Feb 5 2006, 12:03 AM
I got OFFICIAL word from Krylon that spray paint (I assume all of them) takes 7 days to completely dry. Maybe longer if it's humid...

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You can accelerate that by having a fan blowing air on it.

i use krylon fusion for everthing ive done...recoat after 15 and you can mask after a few hours...the reason they tell you recoat before 24 and after 7 days is if you dont recoat before 24 hours then you have to wait 7 days for the flex agents to fully set up..if you coat after 24 hours and dont wait the 7 days the chip resistancy and flexing wont perform as advertised. ive had no trouble masking things after a few hours in normal painting temps.

Another interesting tidbit of information from Krylon: you can use Minwax Polycrylic clear products to topcoat any Fusion paint. You must wait 10 days for it to fully cure before adding the clear.

Polycrylic is pretty expensive (about $9 a can locally) but the results are worth it!

after you top coat it with that do you need to wetsand and then buff out for the mirror finish?

Originally posted by matt1466@Feb 5 2006, 08:39 AM
Another interesting tidbit of information from Krylon:Â* you can use Minwax Polycrylic clear products to topcoat any Fusion paint.Â* You must wait 10 days for it to fully cure before adding the clear.

Polycrylic is pretty expensive (about $9 a can locally) but the results are worth it!

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Thanks Matt1466, I've been wondering what clear coat would be compatible.

Originally posted by matt1466@Feb 5 2006, 12:39 PM
Another interesting tidbit of information from Krylon:Â* you can use Minwax Polycrylic clear products to topcoat any Fusion paint.Â* You must wait 10 days for it to fully cure before adding the clear.

Polycrylic is pretty expensive (about $9 a can locally) but the results are worth it!

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How about standard Testor's Clear Flat? How well does this interact with the Fusion?

I've used Testors flat sealor over Fusion paint and have had no problems. Just make sure the Fusion has fully cured.

Originally posted by KUROK@Feb 5 2006, 04:40 PM
I've been wondering what clear coat would be compatible.

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I have no problem with any of the Krylon clear coats (including the Triple Thick gloss), after about a week of paint drying time.

i would also think that any krylon clear would be fine to use over the fusion as long as you give it the full 7-10 days cure time first...i will be using the krylon acryllic gloss clear for my project...unsure however of the wetsanding and buffing capabilities on this..anyone?

edit - not anymore since i spoke to krylon and they stated this clear has high solvents and may cause blistering of the fusion paint

I found the email from Krylon. I was asking about using Fusion as a primer or undercoat...



The Krylon Fusion Paint may be used as a primer, however it was not manufactured nor tested as such. I would recommend using the Gloss White #2320 as the primer. This will act as a good base allowing the truest top coat color representation. If you are applying a dark color, you can always use a similar Fusion color for better hide.

Regardless of the Fusion color used, I recommend to allow the last coat of Fusion to cure for a minimum of 7 full days. Lightly scuff sand the surface with 220-grit sandpaper to create a slight surface profile. This will allow your topcoat to bite into or bond to the Fusion Paint film more effectively.

NOTE: Krylon does not recommend top coating the Fusion Paint coatings. Unfortunately, not all paint coatings are created equally. We are not able to test all blends or paint types with the Fusion Paints. There are, and will continue to be, exceptions to the standard rules established thus far. The main concern would be that the Fusion paint film and the topcoat paint film (oil, latex, lacquer, etc.) may expand or contract at different rates causing intercoat adhesion failure.

Please Test:
Apply the Fusion to a small test area. Allow the Fusion Paint to cure for a full seven days. Next, lightly sand the Fusion Paint film. Use 220-grit sandpaper. Remove the sanding dust with a soft, lint-free cloth. Apply your topcoat paint. Allow the test area to dry and cure for an additional 5-7 days. Test the surface by scratching the test area with your fingernail. It should resist scratching if the paint has bonded correctly. This will give you a pretty good indication of how the product will perform on your particular surface over the long run. If the topcoat is holding well, you may apply the system with more confidence.

good info...i will go that test route first before topcoating my stuff...thanks

Fusion was made specifically to work its way into plastic. You shouldn't need a primer if you use it on plastics.

I painted my first trooper blaster with Fusion, and when I had it in my holster, I would get black scuff marks on my armor. Nothing ever showed up on the gun, but I clear coated the E-11 so nothing else came off.

i have not used any primer with my fusion and if you put enough paint on the item you almost dont need any clear coat...im not sure either on the clear coat compatibility...did you have no problems and if so what did you use for the clear coat? i picked up some krylon crystal clear acrylic...???

Originally posted by SithLord7768@Feb 9 2006, 05:11 PM
im not sure either on the clear coat compatibility...did you have no problems and if so what did you use for the clear coat?

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As long as the Fusion is cured, any of the Krylon clear coats (Triple Thick Gloss, Glossy, Satin, and Flat) all have worked well for me.

Again, though, I clear coat my stuff to guard against the aditional weathering coming off (not the Fusion coming off). Plus, I don't want anything coming off on any of my costumes (the props I make are usually for costuming purposes).

The guy I talked to at Krylon said that they only recommended using the Minwax Polycrylic as a topcoat. Not sure why but I'm guessing its because the Polycrylic is water-based.

My experience has been to use light coats, allow it to dry fully, sand lightly and topcoat again until you get the finish you want.

Matt

Originally posted by motman241@Feb 8 2006, 11:28 AM
Fusion was made specifically to work its way into plastic. You shouldn't need a primer if you use it on plastics.

I painted my first trooper blaster with Fusion, and when I had it in my holster, I would get black scuff marks on my armor. Nothing ever showed up on the gun, but I clear coated the E-11 so nothing else came off.

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It contains a solvent that actually softens the top layer of plastic that you spray it on. It allows the paint to bond without a primer.

i also spoke to someone at krylon via email and he said not to use the clear gloss arylic as it contains more solvents in it and may cause the fusion to bubble or lift...he also stated the minwax as an option but stated that buffing the minwax or the fusion directly may leave scratches due to it being made from softer resins

Originally posted by SithLord7768@Feb 10 2006, 02:04 AM
i also spoke to someone at krylon via email and he said not to use the clear gloss arylic as it contains more solvents in it and may cause the fusion to bubble or lift...he also stated the minwax as an option but stated that buffing the minwax or the fusion directly may leave scratches due to it being made from softer resins

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DO NOT...I REPEAT..DO NOT use minwax polycrylic water based for your clear coat...the spray pattern splatters and gives a nasty orange peel look to it. I tried at least four coats and a sanding inbetween with 400 grit to smooth and it never came out like i wanted. another bad side effect...its water based and im not sure if its different when fully cured..but after about 3 hours of waiting..water turned the clear into blue spots everywhere that dried clear again...unless you want to get caught in a rainstorm as a blue vader i would say stay away from this stuff...I also was able to salvage my project after almost eight hours by wetsanding...took the entire four coats of clear off the painted surface with very little effort...this stuff is not a good choice...go get it cleared at an autobody shop you would be better off and wont get frustrated as i did!