No worries! Acetone is good for cleaning it up of any oils and fingerprints. And you probably will make a mistake! Bit the acetone will take the paint right off so you can try again.WicKeDM6 said:
No worries! Acetone is good for cleaning it up of any oils and fingerprints. And you probably will make a mistake! Bit the acetone will take the paint right off so you can try again.WicKeDM6 said:
I had an interesting idea regarding the Duplicolor paint:
The main problem people seem to be having with this product (me including) is that it does not spray out of the can as nicely as some other brands.
Even after a complete warm-up of the paint and borderline abusive shaking, the paint still comes out in an almost unpredictable "cloud".
If the problem has less to do with the actual paint formula and more to do with atomization, perhaps extracting the paint from the can and using in a professional paint gun would make application much easier and cleaner.
I've extracted paint from cans many times when I've wanted to use them in my airbrush for fine kits. Most of the time, the paint is already thinned out and ready to go right into the airbrush.
The only downfall to this is that you have to make sure the paint is constantly stirred during the extraction process to release all the gas that was trapped in the can.
With the Duplicolor paint, being laquer based, I am confident that the formula is stable enough to full extract from the can and use in a professional full-size paint gun.
Next week when I am back in the shop, I will test this process out. First I have to buy more of the red since I burned throught the first can doing my tests (but a very valuable investment as I learned a lot from this paint) and I think I can get better results in round 2 by using the paint through an alternative application vehicle.
If I'm wrong or it just does not make much of an improvement - no harm done, I've still learned something AND I still have the Testors products to try out.
I should probably purchase a sheet of alluminum from the hardware store to test on. I don't like the idea of having to paint and strip the shield over and over again.
Look forward to seeing your results!
Definitely test them both. That's the beauty of these cheap options. $25 and you can compare the two.Chris Fields said:
Absolutely.Valor said:
What I will do is see if I can control the Duplicolor better in a full-size paint gun and also pick up the Testors paints and test those out as well.
Since I am in no big hurry to finish this, I have plenty of time to practice and experiment.
Who knows - I might just learn some new things along the way!
Same as the dupicolor, just easier to use in my opinion.GeneralFROSTY said:
Hey, if you have an airbrush, then get the tamiya airbrush paints and mix your own colors to get the right shades of red and blue! That would by far be the best option I think.GeneralFROSTY said:
Absolutely.
What I will do is see if I can control the Duplicolor better in a full-size paint gun and also pick up the Testors paints and test those out as well.
Since I am in no big hurry to finish this, I have plenty of time to practice and experiment.
Who knows - I might just learn some new things along the way!
To those who have done a battle damaged shield, educate a young padawan please!! LOL
What is the best way to get some or the bullet grazes or scorch marks on the shield?
I have no interest in doing a Cap costume but the shield would be cool just to put on the wall.
I personally like using acetone to wipe the bullet streaks into the shield (so it looks like the bullets scrapped the paint right off, revealing the metal beneath). Then use a matte finish black brush paint to add detailed burn marks around the bullet marks. Then use a black matte spray from far back to give a smoke look on certain parts. Adding silver paint in small section to the bullets marks as well looks nice as it appears as smeared lead on the surface.Keyser said:
Friggin' great idea. I recall having to remove the paint from my shield two times with acetone. I can see how with just a dab one could easily create bullet streaks. Nice tip.Chris Fields said:
I'm surprised that after all the effort to make it you could take paint off!Chris Fields said:
Ok, so I'm a bit frustrated here. I'm on my 5th attempt at painting the shield now. This last try, I put the paint in a warm bucket of water for 20 minutes, shook the bejesus out of the can, had the shield mounted vertically. I also, cleaned the shield like a made man with acetone, and wore gloves to prevent any finger printing. My red has come out splotchy and uneven. I've painted a ton of things, never have I had so many issues with a rattle can of paint. Please forgive my attitude here, but HELP!
Can you post pictures of your latest attempt?bjall4jc said:
I like your pair of Converse
Which paint?bjall4jc said:
I bet he's talking about the Duplicolor. It does like to go on uneven.
Im hoping with my tests, I can extract the paint from the can and see how it atomizes out of my full size paint gun.
Yes I am talking about the Dupicolor. The environment I painted in was 75^, shady spot, low humidity.
I'll post pics later tonight when I get home from work.
I know exactly what you're talking about. I love the color and effect, but it atomizes very unpredictibly.bjall4jc said:
My tests will help confirm or rule out a problem with the design of the can nozzle.
Here's some pictures of the shield. Ignore the white ring in the one pic, it was a camera flash incident. Sorry about picture size, first time i uploaded to RPF.
How long did you wait between coats? More than 5-10 minutes?
How far away from the shield did you hold the can?
How fast did you spray the paint back and forth?
For the last coat, did you try to go in slow and close for a glossy look? I'm gonna venture a guess that that is what happened and or you waited too long before applying the last coat.
I took a bunch of pictures during my build, but didn't think to take pictures between coats.
Here are some FAIL shots:
Sprayed while shield laying flat. I think I went to slow and too close.
Finally I got results that I was satisfied with, nice uniform color throughout.
I took the shield to a body shop to have them apply the clear coats. I was hoping the clear coat would bring out the anodized look.
It did and I am pleased with the results. As always, thanks to Valor for his help.
If I were to do anything different, I think I would wet sand it lightly before clear coating.
How long did you wait between coats? More than 5-10 minutes? Waited 6 minutes between each coat.
How far away from the shield did you hold the can? 8", even made a set up the was a stick 8" from shield and never went any closer.
How fast did you spray the paint back and forth? I did a quick spray and move, should I go slow and deliberate. I'm trying to follow Valors suggestions from other threads I've been reading.
Testors paints.. solve all these issues... much simpler to use.
Has anyone tried putting a clearcoat down FIRST and then putting the color on top of it? I know when I'm painting some metal things if I clearcoat first I get a better bite out of the paint on top.
Chris, could you tell me your method of painting for the testors cans? Do I need to take all the steps like soaking can for 20 minutes in warm water-etc?
Reply with Quote
