I need to spread my cheeks...

Ok, I'm trying to generate a Vader faceplate for my upcoming ANH kit. I'm using a 2nd hand DP Classic Action faceplate as a base and have already molded it, thinking I could just sculpt in the smaller goatee grill in the chin.

BUT, after pulling a casting, I noticed his cheeks are sunken in more than I like and I want to spread them out a little more flush. I've tried using a heat gun to soften the cured resin, force them out and hold them till they cool, but it's just too much curve, and they keep going back.

What I need to try now is pull another casting, pull it while it's still soft, and block it in place with something till it cures. A square block of foam would be perfect, but there's none to be had right now, and I'd really like to get this done tonight.

I made a "cheek spreader" a couple weeks ago, out of a small turnbuckle with a couple rubber furniture feet on the ends, but it's almost too big, plus I'm afraid it'll just push out big bulges where the rubber feet are. I "think" I could cut some thick plastic plates to put on the ends and spread the force evenly, but I don't know if there would be enought room between the rubber feet and the actual resin cheeks.

Anybody have any ideas?

Thanks!

-Sarge

Word of advice... nothing ever worth doing should be rushed. I would just sculpt in wider cheeks and remold it. 2 cents

Sarge,

Quick question bro, but are you hard molding or using a silicone mold with a fiberglass jacket?

LMK.

Stay safe,

Tim.

Halo_1 said:

---

Sarge,

Quick question bro, but are you hard molding or using a silicone mold with a fiberglass jacket?

LMK.

Stay safe,

Tim.

Pretty close- Silicone w/ a resin jacket. This initial one is a mite thinner than my usual molds since I just need to get one decent one from it.

-Sarge

I have to admit, I had a.......umm.......very "interesting" image in mind when I read your title!

alteregos said:

---

Word of advice... nothing ever worth doing should be rushed. I would just sculpt in wider cheeks and remold it. 2 cents

I know, just scrambling to get a new big seller in here. I don't know if I said something bad about the Pope's mamma or what, but the collective luck around here has crash dived since Christmas.

Household repairs have been bleeding me dry the last few weeks- first it was the well pump, but that turned out to be the relay switch on the pressure tank- a good smack with a wrench fixed that till an hour or so ago, a second smack just awhile ago, just broke it. then it was the breaker for the heat pump, then tires, liftgate handle on the van, door window on the van...

-Sarge

SgtFang said:

---

I know, just scrambling to get a new big seller in here. I don't know if I said something bad about the Pope's mamma or what, but the collective luck around here has crash dived since Christmas.

Household repairs have been bleeding me dry the last few weeks- first it was the well pump, but that turned out to be the relay switch on the pressure tank- a good smack with a wrench fixed that till an hour or so ago, a second smack just awhile ago, just broke it. then it was the breaker for the heat pump, then tires, liftgate handle on the van, door window on the van...

-Sarge

its pretty easy to change the pressure switch on your pt ( just turn off the power 240 volts ouch) make a diagram to make sure your wires are correct or think of it this way outside outside inside inside meaning the power form house =inside screws and the wires from the outside = outside screws ,unscrew it and put a new one in ( available at most home depot lowes etc ) just make sure you put a little thread sealent in the pipe threads

Hi Sarge,

Since it's a one time pull, I take it remolding the helm is a no go? Have you tried inserting the 'master' DP into the casting itself? Will the plastic hold up to the resin hardening to keep the shape?

Sorry bro, hope that helps somehow...

Stay safe,

Tim.

specopsdet1 said:

---

its pretty easy to change the pressure switch on your pt ( just turn off the power 240 volts ouch) make a diagram to make sure your wires are correct or think of it this way outside outside inside inside meaning the power form house =inside screws and the wires from the outside = outside screws ,unscrew it and put a new one in ( available at most home depot lowes etc ) just make sure you put a little thread sealent in the pipe threads

Yeah, me and my handyman buddy Bill are old hands at swapping them out, we usually go through 1-2 a year, but it usually waits till late february or so before it acts up. The big thing right now is just the money- all this stuff has been cutting into my "business" money and unless a couple sales come in tonight or tomorrow, I'm going to have to float a loan from my wife when she gets paid Wednesday to get this week's finished stuff sent out.

-Sarge

Halo_1 said:

---

Hi Sarge,

Since it's a one time pull, I take it remolding the helm is a no go? Have you tried inserting the 'master' DP into the casting itself? Will the plastic hold up to the resin hardening to keep the shape?

Sorry bro, hope that helps somehow...

Stay safe,

Tim.

When you say "helm" do you mean the faceplate or the actual helmet itself?

The sunken cheeks are on the DP original, but they weren't as noticable with it being painted. When I pulled the tan resin one out, I was like WHOA! and immediately checked it against the original, and sure enough it was just as sunken.

A resculpt is certainly doable, but it'll slow me down and I'm saving that to the last possible option.

-Sarge

I just an upsetting vision!

Sarge,

Sorry, I meant the faceplate...since you already have the pull, any thought of actually removing the sunken cheeks and rebuilding that area with card and resin?

Stay safe,

Tim.

any thought of actually removing the sunken cheeks and rebuilding that area with card and resin?

Now that's a thought, slap some bondo on the cheeks of your casting and sand down to your liking. Faster than sculpting and you don't have to recast the faceplate again.

OR

Here's something that has worked for me in the past (just remembered), cram lots of crumpled up newspaper into the backside of the facepalte while heating up the outside with a heat gun. The gradual pressure and heat should do the trick.

Hoo, what some people will do to get their props......

AHA!!! I just remembered awhile ago, we've got an old couch in the garage, so after some invasive surgey, I've now got a square of foam cut from one of the cushions and the whole cushion was thoughtfully wrapped in polyester batting that I can use to reinforce the mold later!

It's nearly 11:00 now, so we'll see how this works tomorrow. Right now, it's Miller Time!

-Sarge

Hoo, what some people will do to get their props......

That's why they call it ART and not SCIENCE.

I've tried using a heat gun to soften the cured resin, force them out and hold them till they cool, but it's just too much curve, and they keep going back.

Try holding it under cold running water after shaping it with the heat gun....it will sort of shock it into staying.

HAH! It worked! I made the resin see things my way, and now I've got a faceplate I can clean up!

"I AAAAM KIROOOOCK!!!"

-Sarge