How to weather your Number 3 MKI grenade

Howard said:

---

Here's where mine is at the moment.
I like the pitting, looks like it has spent seventeen years experiencing Tatooine sandstorms.

Damn Howard! Nice job!! I love the pitting.

FB

Here's mine




To stop the rust, I just sprayed it with a krylon sealer - worked like a charm.

-Fred

franz bolo said:

---

You can use a little oil but I left mine the way it was and it seems just fine.

I had a thread a while back that had some pics and good suggestions:

http://www.therpf.com/f9/owk-saber-progress-1558/

FB

Good to know! And fantastic job on the grenade. I can't wait to start mine now!

Serafino said:

---

I also really like this one that lesternessman posted. (Howard, I am sure it's a Chen). I wonder if it was gun-blued. Otherwise it has a quality of multiple rusting and cleaning a lot like the 'browning' process used on old guns. Fabulous patina!

Serafino - that looks like my old grenade I sold - can't remember who got it though - that is one or two years after the previous picture - I'd recognise that hard work anywhere

Seriously - very gutted about having to sell of my obi parts, hope they are in a good home now though

cboath said:

---

Did the process you used (listed above) cause the darkening of the steel as well? If so, i love the results!

Yes, the darkening appeared following the last sand/salt bath after I left it out to dry in the sun.

There are some beautiful examples - I love the smooth look also.

I used paint on a couple of mine.
A rust-brown on one and plain brown on the other.
I then used a sponge to add black on surface.

The different textures are due to the finishes on the grenade.
The orange looking grenade has a smooth finish.
The darker grenade has a bead-blast finish.

The brass is the easiest part.
Perma Blue found at wal-Mart tarnishes brass nicely in a matter of seconds.
Good luck!!!

laszlo said:

---

Serafino - that looks like my old grenade I sold - can't remember who got it though - that is one or two years after the previous picture - I'd recognise that hard work anywhere

Seriously - very gutted about having to sell of my obi parts, hope they are in a good home now though

That would be me

I'm selling this grenade soon to fund another one. It really IS a work of art, and I hope my new grenade turns out 1/2 as good.

-Ss

I have a spare Parks/Romans hybrid saber that I keep thinking about weathering, but can never bring myself to actually do it as I can never quite decide what I'm after as a final result. This thread might have inspired me enough to have a go!

I like both Howards and the lesternessman posted ones for different reasons - still can't quite decide where I would want to go.

Great photos so far, but what about weathering Alu? Since I am planning to use this hilt with my future Old Ben costume, was looking to assembly it with Alu parts to make it lighter , if you know what I mean. Any experience doing this?

Aluminum Black is popular. The finish, in my experience, is duller that using Perma Blue on steel. By duller I mean that it's a flatter looking finish, not as smooth and shiny. I don't think I've ever tried polishing after using AB though, so you may be able to bring back some shine with steel wool.

It also doesn't get the rusty look. It's a more even black/grey color. You could use the Aluminum Black and then use paint to simulate the rust.

Laszlo--wow, I stand corrected! That's natural weathering!! Is it essentially fine rust over and over and brushed off in between rustings? Did you heat it or boil it after all the rusting? (That's said to be one way to darken rust-browned steel).

Rebel agent--IMO aluminum doesn't look good with chemical weathering or abrasive weathering of anodized color. The only way to make it look decent IMO is a really good artful paint job. Possibly the initial grey you want to show through in 'weathered' areas might be done with aluma black but it's very hard to control and doesn't always behave predictably depending on the alloy.

the.rebel.agent said:

---

Great photos so far, but what about weathering Alu? Since I am planning to use this hilt with my future Old Ben costume, was looking to assembly it with Alu parts to make it lighter , if you know what I mean. Any experience doing this?

I'd go with what Sumatra said above. However, instead of paint for the rust, here's what I would recommend:

Grind up some rust colored pastel chalk, spray the grenade with some clear semi-gloss, let it dry a bit, but before it's totally dry and still a bit tacky, brush your rust dust into the recesses.

You'll get a more realistic sheen to the metal, and a matte spotted rust in the bevels.

Taking notes guys, let's them come and thank you for your time!

Sumatra said:

---

Aluminum Black is popular. The finish, in my experience, is duller that using Perma Blue on steel. By duller I mean that it's a flatter looking finish, not as smooth and shiny. I don't think I've ever tried polishing after using AB though, so you may be able to bring back some shine with steel wool.

It also doesn't get the rusty look. It's a more even black/grey color. You could use the Aluminum Black and then use paint to simulate the rust.

Polishingbuffing it lightly can create a nice blued effect. It's worked for me in the past. Go slow with the AB, darken it in many short stages, and then rub it with some 800 grit paper, viola.

Serafino said:

---

What I am loving about the steel portion of this grenade is it looks like it is old, but still getting a lot of use. The brass patina looks even and natural.

I am wondering if after rusting the grenade to my desired state, if a coat of bees-wax would help seal it (not oily) and help give it a nice still used look?

Thanks,
-DM

Beeswax would work fine, the only problem is that it is so soft that you will feel it on your fingers. This is why Renwax is a better choice.

http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/RenWax.html

Serafino said:

---

Beeswax would work fine, the only problem is that it is so soft that you will feel it on your fingers. This is why Renwax is a better choice.

http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/RenWax.html

Hi Serafino,

I am sold on Renwax, now, and wished I had paid better attention to when you suggested it earlier. :redface. I never considered the chemical instability of beeswax, until I perused the Renwax site.

Thank you,
-DM

Hi,
I know this is an old thread but as I am making one of these sabers at the mo I thought I would ressurect it.

I have been in touch with a few modelmaking friends of mine that work in the busisness and they say that good old ****/urine is very good for weathering steel. That and the water, vinegar and salt method. do leave it out of the liquid so the air can get to it but keep it damp with a spray bottle or just dip it occasionally.

Acrillic paint works well on Alli but trying to rust it or acid it in anyway will just create a white type rust(not nice)

I am thinking about putting a temporary protective coating on the steel inner threading to prevent rusting the threads during the weathering process.

Just a thought.

- DM