I have a plastic clear baby bottle I want to use
on a project,but I need to remove the print off it
with out scratching or clouding the bottle.
I tried brake fluid and wd-40 with no luck.
I have a plastic clear baby bottle I want to use
on a project,but I need to remove the print off it
with out scratching or clouding the bottle.
I tried brake fluid and wd-40 with no luck.
if the bottle is glass acetone. If its plastic ethyl alcohol.
Ive had to do this numerous times. What works quickly and easily is the kicker/accelerator for CA glue. Try it on a test bunny first but it should spray on and just wipe off once the first layer is loose.
I agree... try alcohol or CA kicker. Depending on the plastic, you can try acetone. Again, try it on a test piece before using it on your final project.
Hi Fulcrum,
have you tried a soft eraser? It worked for me a few times.
Dietrich
Hello,
I have now tried alcohol,"Testors" accelerator, an eraser,brake fluid and wd-40.
All with no luck..
I see no reason why acetone aka "nail polish remover" wouldn't work
Acetone might melt the plastic. Maybe try acetone free polish remover.allosaur176 said:
Also try Magic Eraser (generic brand will work just as well).
I removed the ink printing from my black plastic Sony remote commanders to make the President's phone from Fifth Element by first sanding with 800grit then polishing with automotive resin polish.
This may sound weird, but, try Goo Gone. I've had some success removing permenant marker off of plastic using it.
+1 for the "magic erasers'
I made a vintage Slave 1 toy look like new with one of those.
The generic ones seem to work the best.
Cheers!
Mike
Could you scrub it with a little Oxyclean, peroxide, or find grit polishing compound(like you'd use on a car)? There's also some stuff that I've seen used to remove ink stains from dolls and toys, although it might be more for vinyl surfaces. I'd call and ask about either Remove-Zit or Formula 9-1-1. http://www.twinpines.com/Catalog.htm...I7OF.8TPh8O0_e
Ive also got a question about a plastic toy that Ive tried to get super glue off of. What happened is that I was trying to reglue a broke action figure accessory which I mistakenly got glue around the wrong end and then I tired to quickly wash the glue off of it (the wrong side). Well it dried so fast that I had a layer that built up over the edge and the color of the glue was noticable too. I have asked people places and knowone seems to know of a product anywhere that I could use chemical wise that would disolve and get rid of the glue without ruining the plastic toy accessory or fading or removing the original toy factory paint. I really just want to get the finish on the toy back to normal and remove all of the glue where I can just re-glue the broken piece again with perfection.
Is there any advice here thats been tested and would work. I would appreciate any help.
The problem with superglue is that it can melt plastics. If there's been a color or texture change on the surface, it might have already removed some of the paint or finish, if I'm reading your description correctly. In the past, I've used acetone to help removed built-up superglue, but with very limited success. And that would be almost certain to remove the paint. Even non-acetone polish remover would probably remove paint as well.darthravenger said:
There is a liquid specifically made to remove super glue, but I don't know how it will react to the material/paint the glue is on.
As for the original post, how about zit cream? Seriously, it's made with peroxide and other chemicals, and it's gentle enough for one's face, maybe that could work? Try on a scrap first.
I've been using normal nailpolish remover (WITH acetone). It works amazing and has not damaged any of my star wars figures, new or vintage. What am I missing here, everyone online says never use acetone?!
He got banned in 2009.
I don't think we will know if the nail polish remover suggestion worked.
FYI, I was able to remove Sharpie ink and spray paint from PETG using mineral spirits without any sort of clouding.
never never never use acetone - it will eat the plastic. I have been bitten more than once.
anyway - on the subject of kicker - just what exactly is that stuff chemically I mean? It smells so familiar, and I thought it was the WD-40 smell, but experimenting with WD-40 to kick CA did not work. Is there a commonly available chemical equivalent to Kicker?
Different plastics different reactions, if the acetone does react with your plastic it will be devastating and instant...Darthanonymous said:
Short story, when I did home remodeling, I had this client that called us out every year to sand, polish and resurface his bathrooms Corian (aka plastic) sink top... His wife just couldn't get it through her head that her nail polish remover was bubbling, pitting and staining the surface... One of those WTF jobs because it wasn't just a one time gig, I can vividly remember at least 3 or 4 occasions, and my boss said he had done it several times previous...
So the short of it most people advise not to use acetone because it's very aggressive, there are generally less aggressive solvents that will do the job... On clear plastics I have seen acetone frost it white or at minimum 'smear' the top surface requiring it to be buffed back out...
As always TEST! There is never any one right solvent for every application...
The kicker contains dissolved amines (these are the catalyst), they can be disolved in a variety of solvents... Likely what you smell is the solvent they used, and that solvent varies by manufacture, if it's familiar I suspect maybe MEK, as it has a sweet smell...kimncris said:
I've used that spray on aircraft paint remover on plastic with no ill effects. You will want to try it first to see if it would react to your plastic though.
clutch said:
AHHHHHH!!!!!! I've been sucked in....AHHHHHHHH!!!!
How many posts in an old thread does it take to go from necro to resurrected?
I think there's been enough here.....
The MAGIC thing I use to remove inks like Sharpie, ballpoint, Magic Marker and sticky stuff like tape or glue residues and price stickers from h e double L, and at least give it a try on any kind of general gunk stuck fast to a NON-POROUS surface is automotive Bug-n-Tar remover. The brand I use is Gunk, but I guess they are pretty much all the same.
I've used it on hard plastics, plastic dolls, vinyl, painted surfaces. bare and painted metals and furniture surfaces, with great results and no harm to the objects. But ALWAYS TEST anything first on a scrap or in an inconspicuous spot before jumping headlong. Just spray a little of the Bug-n-Tar remover on a small rag or paper towel and wipe at the "offender" till it disappears. Usually you can just dry off any residual with a dry rag or paper towel, but if you think it's too oily, you can wash it off with soapy water, rinse and dry.
I do a lot of treasure hunting at thrift shops and some of them are notorious for being a little heavy handed with the marker on items because there seems to be problems here with price tag switching--don't get me started, that's for another thread!?!
Anyway, that's my Magic Tip of the day!
Shylaah
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