Gold finish - Idol, Arc, Bars, C3P0...Post um

joeranger

Sr Member

• Jun 29, 2011

• #1

Please post pics of what you have done, the technique used, if you are pleased with the result, cost, effort, durability

Gold has always been valuable because of it's unique luster. This is why you can't buy a can of spray paint and be 100% happy with the results. Even gold leaf has it's draw backs. I have read a dozen threads about different techniques. A quick summary which I welcome feedback.

Professional - Expensive, but there are chrome shops that will gold finish your props for hundreds or thousands of dollars. Results look good.

Gold leaf - A bit pricey, but really does simulate metal. Hard and messy to work with. Need to practice to avoid fingerprints. Best with flatter surfaces. Durable finish that can take wear and handling.

Faux Gold leaf - Less expensive, results almost as good as gold leaf.

Paint - Paint will never really look like metal, but it is easy and can be as cheap as a $5 can of spray paint. There are premium paints as well as high tech automotive results. Some of the gold paint threads were from 08, so I think there are some much better metallic paints now.

 

thegreatgalling

Master Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Jun 29, 2011

• #2

I've been very happy with my results with Rustoleum's Brilliant Gold Metallic:

The paint is about 25-30% BACKGROUND reflective -if I can put a number to it- (if 100% was a mirror and 0% was no reflection). It is VERY light reflective, which gives the illusion it is background reflective.

I've been meaning to put up some pics of my Threeps.

I used a pre-coat of gloss black and it made a difference. I did not use black on the forehead and its the least reflective part of the droid. It dries well and doesn't fingerprint, but make sure the black coat is fully dry before you apply:


And my Threepio (in various lighting conditions/completion/and Weathering:

 

thegreatgalling

Master Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Jun 29, 2011

• #3

You can see the trees in his armpits 5 down. Sure its NEVER going to beat getting it chromed, but its been nice for my tastes.

 

ob1al

Sr Member

• Jun 29, 2011

• #4

Nice Threepio.:thumbsup

I have never found a rattle can gold I am happy with. Closest I have found has been the Plastikote Brilliant Metallic Gold, which is great but unfortunately never properly cures and cannot be handled. Ever.

The only solution is sending your prop the professional route, which even then is fraught with hazards.


Which is why, by and large, I avoid gold props. It's too stressful.

 

thegreatgalling

Master Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Jun 29, 2011

• #5

One fun thing about painting Threepio outside was all the people honking and cheering through their car windows. One of my best prop memories!

 

Sym-Cha

Master Member

• Jun 29, 2011

• #6

Wow that looks absolutely fabulous. Great workmanship on that threepio thegreatgalling. In fact the original C-3PO wasn't all that shiny either because of reflection issues regarding the rest of the set and the camera, director, script-and continuity girl etcetera :lol

-Chaim

 

GotWookiee

Sr Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Jun 29, 2011

• #7

This subject comes up a lot. What is the best Gold "Chrome" in a rattle can? is a great thread from a while back. I haven't used it myself, but Alsa Corp's Killer Cans seems to be the best there is as far as rattle cans go.

I haven't done anything in chrome yet, but when I get around to finishing my dismembered See-Threepio backpack, I plan on using that stuff.

From what I read in that thread, every other solution seems to have one problem or another:

1. Looks like shiny plastic or like polished metal, not chrome
2. Looks great, but would leave fingerprints forever
3. Looks great, but the sealant to protect the chrome coat dulls the finish

Alsa's product seems to be the only one that does it all. Still not as perfect as true vacuum-metalized chrome, but damn good.

Every single person I've ever spoken to on this subject maintains that the quality of the surface you are chroming is critical regardless of how you are chroming it. In other words, the surface needs to be finished so smooth that it already looks like glass before you chrome it. One of the T-800 builders on this board has repeatedly mentioned how unforgiving chrome can be.

Here are some examples of the Killer Chrome stuff from that thread:
Chrominator's Photostream

There are some good results from Plasticote and other products in that thread as well.

 

Last edited: Jun 29, 2011

ob1al

Sr Member

• Jun 29, 2011

• #8

As discussed in the original thread, Plastikote looks wonderful at first but it never properly cures and you can't touch it without tarnishing it. For a seldom touched display item however, it will work wonders.

 

thegreatgalling

Master Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Jun 29, 2011

• #9

Sym-Cha said:

Wow that looks absolutely fabulous. Great workmanship on that threepio thegreatgalling. In fact the original C-3PO wasn't all that shiny either because of reflection issues regarding the rest of the set and the camera, director, script-and continuity girl etcetera :lol

-Chaim

Click to expand...

Yep, particularly in ESB, Threeps is quite dull...

 

Volpin

Sr Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Jun 30, 2011

• #10

Spectra Chrome system, applied by Creations N' Chrome in Valencia, CA.

They previously used Cosmichrome, but as far as I know the two processes are pretty similar. Durability is great, provided you prep with a primer. If not, the paint can "peel" off with some wear. Very resistant to scuffing and scratches.

Prepwork required hours and hours of wetsanding. Its a pain in the ass, but any minor imperfections will be amplified 100x once you get the shiny on it.

I went through a bunch of options before going with this. Its rather expensive, but in my opinion, worth every penny.

 

thegreatgalling

Master Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Jun 30, 2011

• #11

That is simply amazing.