I have a fiberglass item and I want to create some custom designs on the surface using super sculpey. My question is...
I'm afraid that when I cook the sculpey, the fiberglass will get too hot and become deformed. Can I cook the sculpey at a lower temperature for a longer time...preferably at a temp. that won't cause the fiberglass to sag/deform? If so, what would be the ideal temp/time ratio?
On a side note, I'll be doing this in the same oven we cook food in, is this a bad idea?
Have you considered using epoxy putty instead?
The main drawback is that you will only have a couple of hours of sculpting time before it cures, but hopefully that will be more than enough.
Yeah - maybe something like milliput (my material of choice) would be a better option.
I did something similar when I wanted to cure a Sculpey model but without melting the plastic hemisphere eyes I had incorporated. Beeb89 suggested that I halved the temp and doubled the time - I did just that and I worked out fine.
It's meant to be 130 degrees C for 15mins per 6mm - but it also works at 70 degrees C for 30 mins per 6mm.
DO NOT PUT POLYESTER (fiberglass) IN THE OVEN. Not only are the fumes carcinagenic, but you will NEVER get the smell out of your house.
Yes, an epoxy sculpt is what you are looking for. Milliput, Magic Sculpt, or a 3rd one I can't remember the name of right now.
Can you sculpt and bake the items separately and add later?
Nightseed, I have indeed thought about using a heat gun, but from what I've been told, it will only cure the top of the sculpey, leaving the inner area soft.To everyone else, I did also consider epoxy putty, the problem is I'd have to buy a large amount of it to do my project. The sculpey I already have on hand, and in a large quantity. Plus I was needing a bit more working time as I am not sure at the moment exactly how I want it to look.Sporak, sculpting, then cooking and adding the parts afterwords won't work due to the complexity of the surface (lots of compund curves, high points and low points). I could sculpt them over the surface, but I imagine the parts would get bent out of shape when I try to remove them for cooking.
Cover the surface in cling wrap, then lay the pieces on top. Once you have them the way you like, pull the wrap off. Then bake the pieces on top of something soft to help hold the shapes, like wadded paper towels; 130 won't light anything. AND remember this, the pieces are fairly pliant while they're still hot, you can lay them in place to cool, then glue later.dropshipbob said:
I do not know what size the pieces are that youre making but I remember reading somewhere that sculpey can be boiled. This may be a fume free alternative.-John
I would be afraid that the item could be warped that way. May work, or not, depending on the sculpt.Jumpin Jax said:
Here is an idea: Can Sculpey be frozen? How about using cling wrap as mentioned above, but putting it all in the freezer before you pry the sculpt off?
I don't know if it would work very well.
Hmmm, that sounds like a possible idea.
I've heard that sculpey will cure if stood out under a hot sun for a day.
Also, inside of a hot car.
....
I've done the boiling method several times and it's always worked for me. Just put the sculpy in a pot of boiling water for 15 minutes for every 1/4" of thickness and then let cool.
-Fred
That too would work, but I'd probably have to boil it over an open fire, and then only after I've found a container large enough to fit the item in. It's a pretty big item.
Gonna give us some kind of clue as to what?dropshipbob said:
And I doubt they will warp coming off unless you do something silly like glue the wrap down. Pull from the side and just take it and the pieces off, then bake or boil, then lay them in place on the mystery item while still hot. Cake!
Now, now, I must not divulge that before it's finished.
But it is bigger than a breadbox!dropshipbob said:
Now, now, I must not divulge that before it's finished.
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Is it a big breadbox?
How....HOW do you know? Was it Ninjas? PROP NINJAS?!
Try using paperclay instead of sculpey polymer clay! No need to fire it in the oven unless you want to accelerate the drying process (below 100 degrees for about 15 minutes).snowshoe-archangel said:
I use it on all my items! It air dries without having to heat it up and it dries extremely smooth and can be sanded and painted using acrylic paints!
http://www.paperclay.com/
And wouldn't you know it, I happen to have a pack of this stuff in my shop! I was contemplating using it, but I'm worried about shrinkage (am I right fellas?)
For what it's worth for those of you reading, I decided to try the paperclay. It's made out of...well, it's obvious. Works just like clay...kinda looks and feels like pizza dough. Let dry and you can sand and paint it. It's supposed to have only a tiny amount of shrinkage according to the website.
So far, I'm liking it. I was only going to do a small test piece, but once I started handling it, I got sucked in by how easy it was to use. I ended up doing half of my project in a one hour sitting.
http://www.paperclay.com/
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