Creating the Perfect Obi Wan ANH Saber Assembly Adapter

[FONT=Arial]I just received a Serfrano Booster and I'm looking for a Grenade.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial]I would like to create an adapter that would go between those two parts that could be used to assemble the saber in an easy but strong way.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial]I am not real familiar with assembling an Obi saber so I AM LOOKING FOR INPUT AND SUGGESTIONS ON HOW TO MAKE THIS PERFECT.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial]This is what I have so far[/FONT]

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[FONT=Arial]A - This section is the Adapter. Its threaded to match the booster so it can screw into it. You use a common 3/8" bolt "B" to secure the hand wheel to the grenade by going through a non-threaded hole in the adapter[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial]Item C (depicted by the green section) is part of the adapter. It's the part of the original booster that I refer to as the ring of holes. When I had my real booster attached to my real clamp you could easily see these holes in the dips of the booster and it fit the clamp perfectly so I'm sure the real prop had it, I even think the end of the nail was in one of the holes.[/FONT]



[FONT=Arial]Item D is a threaded adapter that is made for each specific grenade and grenade replica and it reduces the hole to fit a 3/8" bolt[/FONT]



[FONT=Arial]This would be the best way since you could rotate the pieces for the correct alignment. With this design you could have threaded holes on the side of the adapter for the transistors. The disadvantage is that you would have to have threaded adapters for all the different grenades and grenade replicas available.[/FONT]





[FONT=Arial]Does anyone have any additional info? or observations?[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial]If we as a group could have it produced in the $25 - $35 price range how many people would be interested in it?[/FONT]






[FONT=Arial]BTW: This is a thread posted to discuss the details and construction of this part. [/FONT]

[FONT=Arial]If you are a Mod and if you move this thread to the Junk Yard I will hunt you down and kill you. Then I will make it my life goal to erase all evidence that your ancestors and your decedents ever existed, essentially I will erase your blood line from the history of the earth. I will exhaust every financial resource I have there will be no stopping me.[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial]Ok, I'm just kidding, but seriously don't move this thread just because I said the part might cost between $25 and $35.[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial]I am just giving everyone a ball park figure to accurately gauge the interest in this part. I probably won't even be the guy that has it made.[/FONT]

This is how I did it. It would probably look better if I had a custom machined metal piece instead of using found parts and elbow grease, but it worked.












When you're done, it looks like this:

[FONT=Arial][FONT=Arial]So your grenade has a through hole?[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial]If so do all grenades have a through hole?[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial]In your assembly did you attached the Emitter to the 3/8" rod?[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial]If so how did you do that?[/FONT]
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If you look at the 8th picture, you'll see an aluminum cylinder on top of the grenade stem. It's outside diameter of that piece is exactly the same as the inside diameter of the Balance Pipe. A few love taps with a mallet and the 2 pieces became one.

All grenades, either real or replica, have the ability for a rod to go through them. On real grenades, you can either unscrew the bottom plate or just unscrew the detonation cap.

[FONT=Arial]What do you mean by


have the ability for a rod to go through them.



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[FONT=Arial]Do you mean the owner could drill through them or that they all have hole in them already?[/FONT]

Boba Debt said:

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[FONT=Arial]What do you mean by


have the ability for a rod to go through them.



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[FONT=Arial]Do you mean the owner could drill through them or that they all have hole in them already?[/FONT]

The frag body of a real inert grenade is hollow. Most replicas are solid with a 3/4" hole through them.

[FONT=Arial]The more I think about this the more I think that the part that goes into the booster doesn't have to be threaded, it could just be a slip fit.[/FONT]

Double Post

Chingon said:

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The frag body of a real inert grenade is hollow. Most replicas are solid with a 3/4" hole through them.

[FONT=Arial]Do all grenades, real and replica, have a hole through the entire part?[/FONT]
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[FONT=Arial]If so, could a 3/8" bolt slide through without catching.[/FONT]
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[FONT=Arial]If it can then that makes the center adapter very simple and now you just have to machine a neck adapter. as indicated by the "A"[/FONT]
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[FONT=Arial]The neck adapter would have an internal 3/8" thread and it would be what the 3/8" bolt screws into.[/FONT]
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[FONT=Arial]It would also have an outside diameter that would make attaching the emitter easy[/FONT]
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[FONT=Arial]How do most people attach the emitter?[/FONT]
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[FONT=Arial]In my method the adapter would be a press fit, but for it to work for everyone, all emitters would have to have the same size internal hole or different adapters would have to be made[/FONT]

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[FONT=Arial]I have an inaccurate real Dewert interconnect and the ID of my part is .700"[/FONT]
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[FONT=Arial]What does everyone else have?[/FONT]

i have a aluminum machined sacer under my clamp, that the gear piece settles into on that end, and my grenades bottom is unscrewed, left off and the open end fits into the other end of spacer settled into a machined out area.

the bolt runs all way through from cap, to gear, to spacer to grenade and on up to the emitter.

i didnt use a nail or nuttin like that like i seen on other sabers, but i did drill a hole in the lever and screwed it down into the clamp, to secure it from poppin open on me.

Great thread. ATL Kenobi has some past threads about his construction, and he had some great ideas about attaching the emitter, I recall o-rings expanded by pressure from tightened nuts or something like that? I've no time to hunt the thread(s) down at the moment but perhaps one of you does.

Serafino


[FONT=Arial]I know you're working on an emitter replica and I read through your thread.[/FONT]
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[FONT=Arial]I guess your part will be identical to the real thing so we still have to figure out the best way to attach this to the neck of the grenade.[/FONT]
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[FONT=Arial]BTW, can you tell me the ID of a real, correct balance pipe in thousandths of an inch?[/FONT]
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[FONT=Arial]Thanks[/FONT]

Yeah I'll get that to you later today.

Today ended yesterday

Serafino said:

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Yeah I'll get that to you later today.

Boba Debt said:

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Today ended yesterday

the ID is bewteen 1.018-1.020

-best

Dan

Thanks Dan, dust is flying these days.

This is from an old tutorial I did a couple years ago.















FB

[FONT=Arial][FONT=Times New Roman]That's very similar to my idea but if you have a Serfrano Booster you will need a more substantial adapter under the clamp.[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial]His replica doesn't have the nut/ring of holes. The ring of holes are 1.5" in diameter and the stabilize the bottom of the clamp.[/FONT]
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[FONT=Arial]Without that part the clamp just lays on top of the booster.[/FONT]
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here is a pic that might help

Dan

How many different OBWK saber "kits" are there out there?
There must have been a central rod on the original, there's no way that mishmash of parts just screwed together.
I'm curious what the people who make the parts intend when they create them? Why not thread all of them (the various pieces) with the same diameter hole and thread? Maybe this is impractical. Just wondering.