anyone used water slide decals before?
if so are they worth getting?
anyone used water slide decals before?
if so are they worth getting?
In regards to the DIY ones?UKscout said:
For inkjet printers they are marginally OK in some instances, but lack the color white and also lack opacity...
For laser printers they are nearly as good as commercial ones but you still lack the color white...
For Alps printers they are nearly as good as commercial ones and you get the benefit of white and even metalics...
Micro Sol and Micro Set will be your 2 best friends!!!
FB
I think it depends on what your expectations are - I have had good luck with them for simpler designs. They are great for working around compound curves:
This is prior to weathering but you get the idea...
I've heard that Future floor polish can be used to with decals too. Only thing is it gets tacky pretty quickly so you can't mess with it too much. It also pretty much eliminates silvering. I don't know what that is but that's what I read.
For ink jets you can get White decal paper... so instead of clear the paper is white. The colors are brighter, and you can get white color, but you HAVE to cut the decal out right on the line, otherwise you get white showing. It works for very simple, geometric designs (aka easy to cut).exoray said:
I used some inkjet decal paper to make decals for a guitar headstock. They turned out fantastic.
By and large, commercially-produced decals are ideal, though applying them can be stressful.
The white parts of the Normandy invasion stripes on this 1:72 P-51 model were pieces of white decal paper placed underneath the decal for the black stripes (a single decal for the two stripes with a clear space in between). I generally just apply right over a clean painted surface, as I've found that decal set will discolor and crack the decals after a few years. That said, is there any sort of brush-on sealant (matte or semi-matte finish) that I can add after the fact?
Last edited by tim; Mar 24, 2009 at 2:34 AM.
I'm in the middle of this right now:
every square inch is covered in waterslide decals to get the subtle panel shading
How good are water slide decals for larger symbols? I have been considering using one for one that is 4" x2".. but I am afraid that I will fumble and not be able to apply it because it is too large.
Amazing idee, Do you have a thread about this. I have the NX-01 myself but have not started yet.b26354 said:
I'm in the middle of this right now:
every square inch is covered in waterslide decals to get the subtle panel shading
If you dont have a thread please make one.
/Conny
Decals must be applied over a completely dry, cured glossy surface. A matte or flat finish will have microscopic hills and valleys that trap air as the water evaporates, leaving minute amounts of air below the decal surface. The air will refract the light differently from the decal that completely touches the smooth surface, causing a silvery, unfinished look to the decal. Even the top clear coat that should be laid over the cured decal will not fix this. Decals MUST be laid over a glossy surface for success.TK9120 said:
I've heard that Future floor polish can be used to with decals too. Only thing is it gets tacky pretty quickly so you can't mess with it too much. It also pretty much eliminates silvering. I don't know what that is but that's what I read.
Johnson Wax Future Floor Polish, sold under other names in the UK and Europe can be airbrushed onto a model as a clear coat prior to decalling and laid on afterward as a clear coat. This may cause slight yellowing of white surfaces.
RGP
it's a decal set from here:contec said:
http://www.acreationmodels.com/
Apparently the re-release of the polar lights 1/350 1701-A is coming out with a full decal sheet for the aztek panelling (which is why I'm practicing on the NX)
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