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  1. MonCal's Avatar
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    CO
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    1,408
    Nov 12, 2012, 1:32 PM - MC landspeeder build #1

    For those just starting to read this thread, here is a photo from way back deep in the article


    We debuted the new backdrop at the FoCo Comic and Gaming Festival in Fort Collins, Colorado on April 19th, 2014.




    I "began" this project by trading for and picking up a Landspeeder body kit. The gentleman who created his master did an amazing job of capturing the correct size, scale, and proportions of the original.


    A friend and fellow droid builder in Texas finished the first one of these and took it to Celebration V in 2010. We met up with him at his house and caravanned to Florida. That was quite a trip. His landspeeder batteries flipped over during transport and we had to stop at a truck stop, unload his speeder, take off the body, fix the batteries, and clean up all the acid in the trailer.... in 100 + degree weather in high humidity... while there was a tobacco field on fire nearby. My wife and I sweated from places we didn't know we could sweat. Fun times Anyway, after helping Wayne with his speeder I was hooked and had to build one.

    This is the body when I started:










    It's tough to tell but these rear "brake vents" or whatever you want to call them were installed a little too far forward so I cut them out, cleaned them up and moved them back about 1/2"






    Here they are cut out:




    And now re-installed and fiber-glassed in place from the back side:




    The first coat of bondo to fill the seams:




    I had enough (jokingly) of people asking if the speeder was remote control since someone couldn't fit in the cockpit so I figured it was time to cut out the leg holes :




    The holes are still really narrow. I am not sure I'll be able to fit in it. I need to recruit a accurately sized Luke and Obi-wan to drive it.




    Here is one of the engine pods:




    This is what was left of the 3 wheel golf cart after it had been stripped and the frame extension had been started:




    We decided the chassis wasn't really in the best of shape so we started building a new frame by getting parts from another (4 wheel) golf cart and also doing some scratch building:










    Until next time
    Last edited by MonCal; Apr 21, 2014 at 6:43 PM.
  2. MonCal's Avatar
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    Nov 12, 2012, 1:32 PM - Re: MC landspeeder build #2

    This is definitely the tedious, not-so-fun part of the project I am anxious to get past the bondo and sanding phase.
    .. but for fun and perhaps for the sake of someone learning something I am posting some of the "boring" steps.

    When the gentleman created the master he had cut the body / panel lines into his "sculpt" but for the molding and casting process to work these body lines had to be filled in with clay so the casting wouldn't lock in the mold.

    The panel lines were still evident which was good so it made it easier to locate and router them back out.

    For the panel line on the "hood" I had to first start by filling a part of the seam between the two halves of the speeder:




    This is a laminate router, for trimming counter top laminate. It's nice for stuff like this cause it's small:




    Here you can see the body panel line that was filled in, which I now need to cut out:




    This is after cutting the panel line:






    I routered the panel lines on the back of the speeder as well:




    Next I am preparing to bondo all the screw holes that were left from screwing the plywood guide to the speeder:




    When patching something like this, whether it's a hole in fiberglass, drywall etc, you want to make it so your filler tapers and doesn't create a hard edge. I started by hitting all the screw holes with a counter sink bit:






    Next I hit the edges with a piece of sandpaper so the filler can taper out and not leave a hard edge:




    Next I "v'd out" the seam lines between the halves of the body. I used a razor knife to cut a taper edge into the joint:




    Then I hit the joints with sandpaper to help create the taper:




    Then I vacuumed, dusted and cleaned all the areas to be bondo'd with acetone:




    Next I put my first coat of bondo on. You really want to work and press the bondo down into your joints and screwholes and then taper it out. I will sand this and then see if I need another thin layer of bondo prior to finish sanding and paint prep.




    The recess areas of the body had some overhang. While I had the router out I used a flush bit and cut the lips off of these recesses:








    I sanded the first coat of bondo that was applied to the rear air scoop thingies. They will need another pass or two of bondo.




    It doesn't look like much progress but it's tedious. The first layer of bondo is on all the joints and holes:




    I can't wait to get to the detailing. Bondo and sanding is for younger folk
  3. RPF Premium Member Droidboy's Avatar
    Member Since
    Dec 2001
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    2,143
    Nov 12, 2012, 1:37 PM - Re: MC landspeeder build #3

    Looks great! So are you going to create a YouTube channel and give it a nifty name

    I can't wait to see more progress.
  4. bobaGun's Avatar
    Member Since
    Apr 2010
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    Germany
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    Nov 12, 2012, 1:51 PM - Re: MC landspeeder build #4

    cool project,
    more information and pic!
    thanks
  5. Room8's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jul 2011
    From
    Central California
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    211
    Nov 12, 2012, 2:16 PM - Re: MC landspeeder build #5

    That's fantastic! I can't wait to see it running. Definitely one of the more time intensive projects but more than worth the effort.
  6. RPF Premium Member Jango Wes's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jul 2003
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    Wiesbaden, Germany
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    Nov 12, 2012, 2:57 PM - Re: MC landspeeder build #6

    8-O. <--- this is my envy face.
    GREAT step by step tutorial. This is what I love about the RPF.

    Can't wait to see more, Cal.

    Wes
  7. Formerly KCGhostbuster RPF Premium Member Snow Builder's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jan 2010
    From
    Olathe, KS
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    774
    Nov 12, 2012, 3:14 PM - Re: MC landspeeder build #7

    Outstanding. I'm looking forward to following your progress. Subscribed!
  8. ob1al's Avatar
    Member Since
    Apr 2005
    From
    UK
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    4,831
    Nov 12, 2012, 3:26 PM - Re: MC landspeeder build #8

    Amazing project.

    I admire your dedication and determination to tackle to modifications as you have - impressive, most impressive. And a LOT of work, wow.

    I'll be following this thread closely!
  9. MonCal's Avatar
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    Mar 2000
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    CO
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    Nov 12, 2012, 3:41 PM - Re: MC landspeeder build #9

    Thanks for the words of encouragement everyone!

    It is a fairly big project but I'm kinda crazy that way

    I have a goal of having this ready for a St. Patrick's day parade so I need to get busy this winter
  10. RPF Premium Member Darth Mawr's Avatar
    Member Since
    Apr 2005
    From
    Birmingham, AL
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    1,005
    Nov 12, 2012, 3:48 PM - Re: MC landspeeder build #10

    Love the progress steps. Please keep it up.
  11. RPF Premium Member DL 44 Blaster's Avatar
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    Nov 2000
    From
    The first state
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    Nov 12, 2012, 6:32 PM - Re: MC landspeeder build #11

    These builds are always just utterly amazing and inspiring to watch unfold. I love watching the time and process of it all. The attention to detail, the passion that goes into the build is evident. I look forward to the evolution more than the finished product....if that makes any sense.

    This will be a daily stop for me
  12. RPF Premium Member NexusFX's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jun 2010
    From
    riverside ca
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    403
    Nov 12, 2012, 8:00 PM - Re: MC landspeeder build #12

    did you happen to see one to al eismann? his is gorgeous
  13. Sluis Van Shipyards's Avatar
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    Jul 1999
    From
    Miamisburg, OH (near Dayton)
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    13,992
    Nov 12, 2012, 8:07 PM - Re: MC landspeeder build #13

    Very cool! My first stop after finishing that would be to go through a fast food drive thru!
  14. winterg's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jun 2012
    From
    Florida Garrison, TBS
    Messages
    42
    Nov 12, 2012, 8:12 PM - Re: MC landspeeder build #14

    Wow. Amazing! One of the reasons I love this forum is that the folk who really know what they are doing put in the little detail steps that really help those of us who are inexperienced. Thanks Cal, keep up the great work!
  15. Member Since
    Sep 2012
    From
    Richfeild MN
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    5
    Nov 12, 2012, 10:34 PM - Re: MC landspeeder build #15

    This is amazing stuff. Thank you for also not just showing off what your doing and actually explaining it. Its posts like these that get me excited to see whats next and I feel like I'm learning something at the same time. Again, great stuff. Looking forward to whats next
  16. Pwrsrce's Avatar
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    Nov 2001
    From
    Fort Worth, Texas
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    806
    Nov 13, 2012, 12:17 AM - Re: MC landspeeder build #16

    Wow...Does that bring back some memories...hehe

    Hey Cal...I still need to finish digging out info for you. I'm sorry man, but it's on a computer that is stuck away in a closet. But here's a couple of quick things I remember from memory.

    1. When striping off the speeder, I used 2" masking tape laid right on the top/bottom edge of the recessed areas on the side...That made those pinkish areas on either side of the slats exactly 2" wide.

    2. The dark red stripe around the cockpit was 1.5" thick...

    3. To create the nose damage area, I took a straight on shot from the real speeder, blew it up to size, cut it out, and traced the outline onto the shell...Once I cut it out of the nose, I turned it over and glassed it back in on the back side. I was then able to sculpt the damage area directly into that pocket using bondo. Worked like a charm.

    4. One thing that bothered me about mine was that I had the main red stripe down the center deck a little too thick. I believe I did it about 1.75" thick, and I'm pretty sure it should have been more like 1.5"

    When you are picking out paint, don't get nervous if the color looks a little too pink at first. I put a pantone chart on the real one, and the real color is definitely leaning towards the pink side...Before I had the stripes and weathering on, I called mine the Barbie speeder.

    But the striping and weathering really mute it back a lot...

    Another thing I noticed on the real one was that the colors have a real sun faded, washed out sort of look. To replicate that, after the paint had dried I sanded the finish down to give it that dusty, dull look. And then I just kept adding weathering...Spray wash...Acrylic dabbing with a brush...Tea...Coffee...Dr. Pepper...Anything that had a different color to it to help add some layers to the mix...hehe...

    Have fun...It's always good to see more speeders being built.

    Jason
  17. Galaam Rendik's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jan 2012
    From
    France
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    20
    Nov 13, 2012, 1:34 PM - Re: MC landspeeder build #17

    This is so cool. I'd love to build one if I could.
    So much awesome projects on this forum and not enough time to give them a try...
  18. RPF Premium Member RoCKo's Avatar
    Member Since
    Apr 2005
    From
    Germany
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    1,368
    Nov 13, 2012, 3:03 PM - Re: MC landspeeder build #18

    Ups ,he's doing the magic again! Great project, Cal!
    Can't wait to see this finished.
  19. MonCal's Avatar
    Member Since
    Mar 2000
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    CO
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    Nov 14, 2012, 11:59 AM - Re: MC landspeeder build #19

    Thanks everyone!


    Sluis Van Shipyards said: View Post
    Very cool! My first stop after finishing that would be to go through a fast food drive thru!
    I've already been planning that. There is a Sonic just up the road from our house I also plan to take it to the local Drive in Theater


    Derby said: View Post
    This is amazing stuff. Thank you for also not just showing off what your doing and actually explaining it. Its posts like these that get me excited to see whats next and I feel like I'm learning something at the same time. Again, great stuff. Looking forward to whats next
    This is how I remember the RPF in the early days Ah.. the good old days... I'm showing my age now..
    Thank you! And.. you're very welcome. I enjoy threads like this too and I learned early on to document my builds. I sometimes get excited with a project and forget to take pics but for the most part I remember. Just don't leave your camera too close to what you are working on, make sure to clean your hands, and put the camera strap around your wrist! All things I have learned the hard way.


    Pwrsrce said: View Post
    Wow...Does that bring back some memories...hehe

    Hey Cal...I still need to finish digging out info for you. I'm sorry man, but it's on a computer that is stuck away in a closet. But here's a couple of quick things I remember from memory.
    Thanks man! I know how it is to be super swamped and I appreciate whatever you can share

    Pwrsrce said: View Post
    1. When striping off the speeder, I used 2" masking tape laid right on the top/bottom edge of the recessed areas on the side...That made those pinkish areas on either side of the slats exactly 2" wide.
    Excellent. Thanks!

    Pwrsrce said: View Post
    2. The dark red stripe around the cockpit was 1.5" thick...
    Nice. That helps. That's one thing I forgot to eyeball the size of when I saw the speeder in person. From photos I was guessing 1 1/4" on that stripe.

    Pwrsrce said: View Post
    3. To create the nose damage area, I took a straight on shot from the real speeder, blew it up to size, cut it out, and traced the outline onto the shell...Once I cut it out of the nose, I turned it over and glassed it back in on the back side. I was then able to sculpt the damage area directly into that pocket using bondo. Worked like a charm.
    Yup... already on that one. I printed that up to scale. I got a good photo at the exhibit and you can see exactly where they cut it out cause it has a light crack all the way around. That's my first thing to do after filling all the joints and holes.


    Pwrsrce said: View Post
    4. One thing that bothered me about mine was that I had the main red stripe down the center deck a little too thick. I believe I did it about 1.75" thick, and I'm pretty sure it should have been more like 1.5"
    Excellent. that's about what I was guessing.


    Pwrsrce said: View Post
    When you are picking out paint, don't get nervous if the color looks a little too pink at first. I put a pantone chart on the real one, and the real color is definitely leaning towards the pink side...Before I had the stripes and weathering on, I called mine the Barbie speeder.
    If memory serves I was thinking of going with the paint Al used (or was it you?) in his build. That is fairly attainable and easy and does look close.


    Pwrsrce said: View Post
    Another thing I noticed on the real one was that the colors have a real sun faded, washed out sort of look.
    I was going to ask if anyone knows any tricks to create a faux oxidization effect.


    RoCKo said: View Post
    Ups ,he's doing the magic again! Great project, Cal!
    Can't wait to see this finished.
    Thanks RoCKo! I appreciate it. I am excited to get this finished too. I don't want to rush it though if I can help it. I want to nail this baby. I even tried to cut out the leg holes in the cockpit to replicate the crude cuts on the original ... I'm a dork.
  20. BFLV's Avatar
    Member Since
    Oct 2010
    From
    France
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    22
    Nov 14, 2012, 12:35 PM - Re: MC landspeeder build #20

    Awesome project

    planning to including sound on the speeder ?
  21. MonCal's Avatar
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    CO
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    Nov 14, 2012, 5:07 PM - Re: MC landspeeder build #21

    BFLV said: View Post
    Awesome project

    planning to including sound on the speeder ?
    Thank you. Yes Definitely!
  22. Nadun's Avatar
    Member Since
    Apr 2010
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    2
    Nov 14, 2012, 7:47 PM - Re: MC landspeeder build #22

    This, sir, is my dream build! Looks amazing so far!
  23. Fuzzual's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jun 2010
    From
    Colorado
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    1,259
    Nov 14, 2012, 7:56 PM - Re: MC landspeeder build #23

    Out-flipping-standing!!! This will be a great project. Thank you for the step by step process photos!
  24. MonCal's Avatar
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    CO
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    Nov 19, 2012, 12:33 PM - Re: MC landspeeder build #24

    Thanks Nadun.
    Thanks Fuzzual



    More progress

    sanding, bondo, sanding, more sanding... ugh..


    More bondo application:








    First I hit it with some 80 grit...




    It was nice out so I rigged up a dolly system so I could roll it in and out of the workshop:




    Then I hit the whole thing with 220 grit sandpaper.




    The 220 grit still leaves some real fine swirls in the surface but since this thing gets layers of paint and a ton of weathering it should be just fine




    I definitely had to sand the entire body because it had this weird film on it. In some areas it was exactly like dead skin after a sunburn. You can see it flaking off in this picture:




    And in this picture you can see it flaking off around the edges of where I started sanding:




    Another thing that kinda baffles me is the clay in various locations. Now, I get what the purpose of the clay was for, to fill in areas of the fiberglass mold where it either had bubbles or locking issues but why use clay every time you cast a body? Why not bondo the fiberglass mold and be done? .. oh well

    You can see the clay on the left side of the center console / dash area:







    I'm close to being finished with the bondo and the sanding on the body. I have a dozen small bondo spots left to sand. I also still have the engine pods to patch up. Next I will tackle the dent on the front of the speeder and the scrapes on the right side. Then onto scaling up all the paint chips
  25. RPF Premium Member knightdriver2001's Avatar
    Member Since
    Aug 2002
    From
    Vernon/South Windsor, Connecticut
    Messages
    1,729
    Nov 19, 2012, 12:50 PM - Re: MC landspeeder build #25

    The flaking stuff is most likely the spray on mold release. can't think of what it's called at the moment though. That should usually wash right
    off with soap and water.

    Clay was probably used as seam filler when the mold halves were put together. that is commonly used with fabircators.

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