Don Post Deluxe Vader #73

AnsonJames

Sr Member
Hello All ,

I've just picked up a low numbered Don Post deluxe (used to belong to someone here I think - has reveal details on.?) It's painted quite nicely but the 'nail' marks on the cheeks are gone completely.
I think this is paint and laquer, basically I want to take all the paint off.
Any ideas for a good paint remover that won't attack the gel coat (is it gel coat or some kind of Urethane?) what do you reckon - brake fluid, Acetone?

Anson
 
Cool.... congrats on your new purchase.

I remember seeing that one up for sale - the guy had paid a Harley Davidson dealer to airbrush on the Reveal details on the top of the faceplate. I wonder did the HD paintshop think that the 'nail' marks in the cheeks (under the eyes) were defects and may have filled 'em in?. :confused

Either way I'd pay for a professional body-shop to strip it back carefully using the right paintstripper for the job, and then (subject to price) get them to do a top-notch re-spray on it :)

Cheers,
John



<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(AnsonJames @ Apr 19 2006, 11:08 AM) [snapback]1228958[/snapback]</div>
Hello All ,

I've just picked up a low numbered Don Post deluxe (used to belong to someone here I think - has reveal details on.?) It's painted quite nicely but the 'nail' marks on the cheeks are gone completely.
I think this is paint and laquer, basically I want to take all the paint off.
Any ideas for a good paint remover that won't attack the gel coat (is it gel coat or some kind of Urethane?) what do you reckon - brake fluid, Acetone?

Anson
[/b]
 
Good suggestion.

When you have a piece as valuable as a low numbered Don Post Deluxe yuo really want to make sure it is done right. I can't think of a better way to get it done than the professionals at an autobody shop.
 
Don't use paint stripper on fiberglass, It gets into the fiberglass and new paint will bubble up.

I seen this done to a Indy Pace car Corvette when I used to work in my dad's garage. This customer thought he would save money by doing it himself and having us spray it.
 
This isn't the kind of thing that can be rushed....
If it were mine i'd start sanding....and keep on sanding until i saw the base....
Then just keep going with smoother grades of W/D paper....you should be able to gouge out (ouch.) the nail marks on the cheeks and sand around them....
If you think it's going to be too tough, ask a few board members to help....like me.
Rich
 
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Boba Frett @ Apr 19 2006, 08:14 AM) [snapback]1228987[/snapback]</div>
Don't use paint stripper on fiberglass, It gets into the fiberglass and new paint will bubble up.
[/b]

That's interesting information Kenny. Good to know.
 
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(clancampbell @ Apr 19 2006, 01:40 PM) [snapback]1228999[/snapback]</div>
This isn't the kind of thing that can be rushed....
If it were mine i'd start sanding....and keep on sanding until i saw the base....
Then just keep going with smoother grades of W/D paper....you should be able to gouge out (ouch.) the nail marks on the cheeks and sand around them....
If you think it's going to be too tough, ask a few board members to help....like me.
Rich
[/b]

Thanks Rich,

I've no ideas as to what paint was used but I can say this.
I've tried Acetone and Cellulose thinner and niether even touches the paint. I'd say it's paint and varnish made for spraying fuel tanks - it's chemical proof.

Anson
 
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(AnsonJames @ Apr 19 2006, 02:55 PM) [snapback]1229013[/snapback]</div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(clancampbell @ Apr 19 2006, 01:40 PM) [snapback]1228999[/snapback]
This isn't the kind of thing that can be rushed....
If it were mine i'd start sanding....and keep on sanding until i saw the base....
Then just keep going with smoother grades of W/D paper....you should be able to gouge out (ouch.) the nail marks on the cheeks and sand around them....
If you think it's going to be too tough, ask a few board members to help....like me.
Rich
[/b]
Thanks Rich,

I've no ideas as to what paint was used but I can say this.
I've tried Acetone and Cellulose thinner and niether even touches the paint. I'd say it's paint and varnish made for spraying fuel tanks - it's chemical proof.

Anson
[/b][/quote]
I was going to suggest brake fluid, but seeing as neither acetone and cellulose thinner that will also attack the fiberglass has any effect on the paint I would then have to agree with what other users have said before: to have it done professionally, since they know what they're doing. Though, it may be a more costly method, but I think that's the only way to go, unless you know what you're doing and want to try it yourself.

The thing about the nail marks under the eyes could simply be explained by a thick paint-job. Though, it would be a pain if it had been filled by mistake.

Good luck with getting the paint stripped.

Oh yeah... and great score btw on the low-numbered DP DLX. :)
 
that was my old VADER bucket

just a FYI..I paid $600 for the Harley dealership to paint it up for me

I would not try to remove the paint job yourself...let a professional do it.

I went by during the process and it looked to me they sanded it down to the fiberglass then painted it black and then finished it up with the clear coat

good luck
 
Might be an opportunity to sharpen the entire piece up, anyway. The Harley guys likely sanded the nail marks off, by the sound of it?



edited for spelling...
 
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Darthmiller @ Apr 19 2006, 02:17 PM) [snapback]1229027[/snapback]</div>
that was my old VADER bucket

just a FYI..I paid $600 for the Harley dealership to paint it up for me

I would not try to remove the paint job yourself...let a professional do it.

I went by during the process and it looked to me they sanded it down to the fiberglass then painted it black and then finished it up with the clear coat

good luck
[/b]

$600 Is a Sh.tload of money to pay for a sprayjob on a Vader. I don't suppose you know what kind of paint they used?
I'm thinking urethane or two part epoxy...
I can definately achieve a paintjob of the same quality but I really don't fancy the idea of having to sand it down.
 
I'd enquire about medium blasting......I've seen baking soda used for removing paint. Nice thing is it won't damage what's underneath. I've seen paint taken off a soda can without any damage at all to the thin aluminum underneath....not sure if the bicarb would react with anything in the f-glass tho....

Hopefully they didn't sand off the details when they painted it....that would be a shame on such a low numbered DP DLX...
 
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(KevVader @ Apr 19 2006, 08:53 PM) [snapback]1229260[/snapback]</div>
I'd enquire about medium blasting......I've seen baking soda used for removing paint. Nice thing is it won't damage what's underneath. I've seen paint taken off a soda can without any damage at all to the thin aluminum underneath....not sure if the bicarb would react with anything in the f-glass tho....

Hopefully they didn't sand off the details when they painted it....that would be a shame on such a low numbered DP DLX...
[/b]

Thanks for the advice - I doubt if they have anything like that here in Ireland but I'll have a look.
I'd hate not to be able to clean this thing up.
The dome sits perfectly on it and the neck is stunning, this is 13 lower than the helmet Cking copied.
I don't think it was sanded but hopefully chemically stripped - the area around the eyes is definately sprayed too heavily and the bloody paint they used is very, very heavy duty stuff.
I wouldn't mind taking some molds off it (Don Post stuff okay to copy?) it would be a great basis for a short run...
 
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(AnsonJames @ Apr 19 2006, 05:10 PM) [snapback]1229310[/snapback]</div>
I wouldn't mind taking some molds off it (Don Post stuff okay to copy?) it would be a great basis for a short run...
[/b]

Yes, it's ok.

I don't think Don Post studios will protest.... :p
 
As KevVader suggested, soda blasting would work well. Also, there are strippers made especially for safely removing paint from fiberglass (not regular paint stripper). Klean Strip makes one that works quite well. I used it to remove paint from a fiberglass automotive part. I'm sure there are other brands out there for use on fiberglass.
 
I think I've found something - my friend and (and yours) methylene chloride or dichloromethane.
It's used for to glue perspex instead of chloroform, not that it's any safer really just that it doesn't make you fall over as much.
It does tend to make your bollocks drop off though...
 
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DarthKahnt @ Apr 20 2006, 04:03 AM) [snapback]1229444[/snapback]</div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(AnsonJames @ Apr 19 2006, 05:10 PM) [snapback]1229310[/snapback]
I wouldn't mind taking some molds off it (Don Post stuff okay to copy?) it would be a great basis for a short run...
[/b]
Yes, it's ok.

I don't think Don Post studios will protest.... :p
[/b][/quote]
What about Rubies that took over the licence from DP and their molds?

Just asking...
 
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(NoHumorMan @ Apr 20 2006, 12:30 PM) [snapback]1229601[/snapback]</div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DarthKahnt @ Apr 20 2006, 04:03 AM) [snapback]1229444[/snapback]
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(AnsonJames @ Apr 19 2006, 05:10 PM) [snapback]1229310[/snapback]
I wouldn't mind taking some molds off it (Don Post stuff okay to copy?) it would be a great basis for a short run...
[/b]
Yes, it's ok.

I don't think Don Post studios will protest.... :p
















[/b][/quote]
What about Rubies that took over the licence from DP and their molds?

Just asking...
[/b][/quote]



This is a good point - didn't Rubies stop producing them though?
If it's not the case then I WON'T do a run...
 
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(AnsonJames @ Apr 19 2006, 03:45 PM) [snapback]1229070[/snapback]</div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Darthmiller @ Apr 19 2006, 02:17 PM) [snapback]1229027[/snapback]
that was my old VADER bucket

just a FYI..I paid $600 for the Harley dealership to paint it up for me

I would not try to remove the paint job yourself...let a professional do it.

I went by during the process and it looked to me they sanded it down to the fiberglass then painted it black and then finished it up with the clear coat

good luck
[/b]

$600 Is a Sh.tload of money to pay for a sprayjob on a Vader. I don't suppose you know what kind of paint they used?
I'm thinking urethane or two part epoxy...
I can definately achieve a paintjob of the same quality but I really don't fancy the idea of having to sand it down.
[/b][/quote]


no idea on what type of paint..I assume its the exact same stuff they use on the motorcycles


I originally sold it on EBAY...are you the same guy who bought it or did he sell it to you
 
<div class='quotetop'>(Darthmiller @ Apr 20 2006, 01:41 PM) [snapback]1229621[/snapback]</div>
<div class='quotetop'>(AnsonJames @ Apr 19 2006, 03:45 PM) [snapback]1229070[/snapback]
<div class='quotetop'>(Darthmiller @ Apr 19 2006, 02:17 PM) [snapback]1229027[/snapback]
that was my old VADER bucket

just a FYI..I paid $600 for the Harley dealership to paint it up for me

I would not try to remove the paint job yourself...let a professional do it.

I went by during the process and it looked to me they sanded it down to the fiberglass then painted it black and then finished it up with the clear coat

good luck
[/b]

$600 Is a Sh.tload of money to pay for a sprayjob on a Vader. I don't suppose you know what kind of paint they used?
I'm thinking urethane or two part epoxy...
I can definately achieve a paintjob of the same quality but I really don't fancy the idea of having to sand it down.
[/b][/quote]


no idea on what type of paint..I assume its the exact same stuff they use on the motorcycles


I originally sold it on EBAY...are you the same guy who bought it or did he sell it to you
[/b][/quote]
I bought of the guy you sold it to. Same price he paid you for it too.
He wanted a reveal helmet...
 
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