So this is my second build. I recently did the replica ESB, but wanted to do a Vintage ANH, but wanted to step up my DIY PVC chassis building and make it a crystal chamber.
I went through a couple of ideas, but finally came to this one piece design that worked out pretty well. The next time I will try a different design, but I think I like this one for its simplicity.
The chassis is only 5 pieces of PVC: two caps for the crystal and focusing crystal (aka blue LED dome), a bushing shaped down to fit the main tube and attach to the graflex shop blade holder, and a bushing shaped to hold a TCSS 2w speaker and be the end cap.
I could have gotten just a LITTLE more space out of this with closer measurements, but while tight, this works about perfect. The only thing I really could do to make it easier would be to wire my own battery pack to save a couple mm over the TCSS 2 AA holder.
The Petit Crouton 2.0 fits tight inside the body, and in the end I had to cut a little recess for the board to slide in. The reason was, when test fitting, I left the batteries out of the AA holder, and the batteries added about 1-2mm thickness I had not planned for. So the clean shape had to get spoiled a little in one small spot.
I also found a black low profile, side pole mount recharge port to use. This was only way I could think to get a working charge/kill port in the hilt, and fit inside the way I planned it to. It was a challenge for me, as the data sheet on the recharge port sucked, and I had no clue which poles did what. I eventually figured it out.
I used two brass sink/faucet seats for the crystal holder, along with some hot glue and press fit the crystal in. There's a hollow brass tube for the wiring to run through. I thought about doing multiple tubes, or other posts, but it started to look too busy and icky. So just one.
The speaker holder BARELY fits on the main body, so I had to cut some grooves for the body and speaker holder piece to lock into each other slightly so it would stay together.
The SD card is accessed by taking off the speaker holder gently, and I can get at it with my huge fingers with no problems, and no nails. ^_^
For the body particulars, it is an early FOLMER Graflex flash with no patent # and short knurling on the red button.
Slide switch Activation and red button Aux. The slide switch took some tweaking, but I got it perfect. You have to slide down to activate, but immediate slide back up to take pressure off of the button. The reverse for turning it off.
The grips are Blast Tech, as is the bubble strip. The D Ring is from thegreatgalling on the RPF forum, but is the smaller ring.
I also got some ideas from Brad/slothfurnace and drilled out the D ring screw for a sound hole. I didn't want the bottom to be peppered with holes, and wanted as screen accurate as possible, so that was the only way to get a good sound hole. I also added two more hidden ones under the D ring tab. Without those, the saber is VERY quiet.
I also added a small mesh to the glass eye, which after milling out the blade holder, lights up with shine-through from the LED and blade.
I also made my own boot sound for it, and a custom Force sound. I know the force sound isn't LUKE related as much as just something cool from EPIV.
That's about all I can think of… so.. specs and pics.
Petit Crouton 2.0
Madcow's Heirloom Font (with custom sounds by me)
Seoul P4 Blue
Blast Tech grips/Bubble Strip
D ring from theGreatGalling on the RPF forum
oh, and I'll be selling this one soon too.