New Captain America Project WIP (pic heavy)

SMP Designs

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Another Captain America project is under way and this one has a bit of a twist. It's being made so that it's convertible - the torso can be swapped out and the chest stripes can be removed so the costume can be work as either the "classic" Cap or the Commander Rogers "stealth suit" version. Here's the concept rendering for the top.
M_Arroyo_Cap_Render_Top.jpg


The suit will also have the harness and belt. The pants will be modeled after basic BDU pants but will be made in the same blue Cordura as the top. I really worked with the client on the concept and design for this suit. He wanted something that had the feel of the movies but was unique and that could be worn as two different costumes. I thought his ideas were brilliant and I was very excited to work on the project.
To get started, I had the client (who is out of state from me) fill out his measurement card and send it back. It just so happens that he was almost exactly the same size as a friend of mine who was at the studio quite a bit while we worked on a costume for him. So, I decided to kidnap him one afternoon and make a duct tape dummy of his torso and one arm to use for drafting the patterns.
tape-cast-1-242x300.jpg
tape-cast-2-300x297.jpg


He looks thrilled, right? Once I cut it off, I used the side without the arm to make the torso pattern and reserved the side with the arm for the upper jacket.
tape-cast-3.jpg

I pinned the entire side to a form and used a sharpie to map out the seam lines for the jacket.
tape-cast-6.jpg

After cutting apart all the duct tape pieces, cleaning up the lines and tracing it all out on paper, I had patterns for my two upper body pieces.
jacket-pattern.jpg
torso-pattern.jpg

The next step was to make a mock up to send to the client for fitting. I had some remnants of Cordura, jumbo spandex and headliner foam from other projects, so I raided those to create the fitting model. The upper picture is both pieces as they will fit together and the lower is just the torso. As I mentioned before, there will be two different torso pieces - one that's all blue for the "stealth" version and one that's red and silver for the "classic. The torso will fit like a tank top with athletic mesh on the top under the jacket to keep it as cool and breathable as possible.
upper-mockup.jpg
torso-mockup.jpg

Once the client tried on the fitting pieces, sent me pics and we discussed alterations, the real construction could begin. The costume is being made in 500 Denier Cordura with stretch accents made of jumbo spandex. There are also areas of the costume that will be fitted with headliner foam to add structure and support and all of the non-stretch areas are being lined with cotton for comfort and to absorb moisture.
I began with the sleeves. I had to cut apart the shoulder bells to design in the stripes. I'm using an upholstery weight vinyl that has a stainless steel type finish for all the stripes. I built the blue and silver bells and then made the foam inner layer.
shoulder.jpg


Here's a pic of the upper arm with the shoulder attached. When using the jumbo spandex on costumes like this one, I like to use the wrong side of the fabric. It has a nice texture that reads like a really cool knit rather than the bright sheen of the spandex and it goes really nicely with the navy blue Cordura.
upper-arm-w-shoulder.jpg

And here are the sleeves completed.
sleeve-1.jpg
sleeve-2.jpg
sleeve-3.jpg


Next: construction begins on the rest of the jacket. Stay tuned...

M_Arroyo_Cap_Render_Top.jpg


tape-cast-1-242x300.jpg


tape-cast-2-300x297.jpg


tape-cast-3.jpg


tape-cast-6.jpg


jacket-pattern.jpg


torso-pattern.jpg


upper-mockup.jpg


torso-mockup.jpg


shoulder.jpg


upper-arm-w-shoulder.jpg


sleeve-1.jpg


sleeve-2.jpg


sleeve-3.jpg
 
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I am very pleased to see someone finally use Cordura for a Stealth Suit; always annoyed me how almost everyone neglected the tactical qualities of the suit and just went with a dark blue fabric....

I am curious, why 500D and not 1000D?
 
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I am very pleased to see someone finally use Cordura for a Stealth Suit; always annoyed me how almost everyone neglected the tactical qualities of the suit and just went with a dark blue fabric....

I am curious, why 500D and not 1000D?

Thanks! I love Cordura and use it for a ton of projects. I'm using the 500 mainly because I'm lining it with cotton and also some parts have foam padding and I didn't want it to be too stiff and cardboard-y. In fact, I generally use the 500 - it just seems to sculpt better around areas like shoulders and chests and has a lighter, more agile look than 1000.

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks everyone for the comments and subscribes!
 
Really cool idea to get a bit more mileage out of a single costume, and the construction is just awesome -- clean, precise, and gorgeous. Can't wait to see everything get pulled together!
 
Nice! Any advice for working with Cordura? I was going to go with 1000D on the new suit, and wanted to know the quirks of working with the material. Great looking sleeve
 
Nice! Any advice for working with Cordura? I was going to go with 1000D on the new suit, and wanted to know the quirks of working with the material. Great looking sleeve

Thanks! It's actually pretty easy to work with. To preface, I always pre-treat all of my fabrics before I begin cutting simply by washing and drying them thoroughly. This removes all the sizing and other factory chemicals from the fabrics, softens them and pre-shrinks them (if they are prone to shrinking). This also works with Cordura. It will make it easier to sculpt and will take out some of the cardboard-y nature of it that it has right off the bolt.

It's pretty forgiving as well. You don't have to worry too much about the grain because it's so tightly woven and coated that there's really no bias to it. That can work against you in some ways - like if you're trying to ease in a really tight sleeve cap or bust curve - but with a little practice, you get used to it. It's really good for doing tight angles and creating sharp corners and edges in garments that are pieced together and have a lot of decorative seaming. Plus, as you can see, it works very well in combination with jumbo spandex for creating highly structured pieces that have strategic elements of stretch incorporated.

As I stated earlier, I generally like the 500D rather than the 1000D because I, personally, find it easier to work with and I get a better result with it. Some people love 1000 - I typically use it for things like belts, harnesses, pouches, gaiters, etc - generally, things that take a lot of stress and need to be very stiff. For garments and things that need good movement and sculptural details (like these sleeves), I go with the 500 for its lighter and more agile appearance and workability.
 
Update time!

With the sleeves done, the next step was to finish the jacket and under collar. The chest has a foam underlining to support the star as well as the stripe pieces that will attach with magnets. The back and side back are Cordura lined with cotton and the side front is made of the jumbo spandex to provide flexibility. Once everything is complete and all adjustments are final, the bottom edges of the jacket will be finished with matching bias.
jacket-1.jpg
jacket-2.jpg

Once the jacket was complete, I needed to draft the 'shawl' piece. This is the piece that covers the back and extends over the shoulders. It fits under the harness and has an outer collar.
shawl-art.jpg

I began by laying a piece of muslin over the jacket and sketching out the basic shape for the piece.
shawl-pattern-1.jpg

Once the basic size and shape were determined, I could add some detail. I intend for this piece to be worn with both versions of the costume, with or without the harness. So, I want this to be a nicely detailed addition to the costume and not just a 'pad' for the harness. I set out to work in some of the details from the movie costume to provide some depth and interest even if the harness is not there.
I decided to use 2mm craft foam to create the 'padding' effects in this piece. I wanted something with some structure but nothing that would be too stiff and restrict movement. I patterned out the sections of the 'shawl' and started with the front. The Cordura layers were lined with cotton and then the foam insert was placed inside them and I used a zipper foot to stitch around the edges of the foam.
shawl-1.jpg
shawl-2.jpg
shawl-3.jpg

The back was made in a similar fashion.
shawl-4.jpg

I've completed one side of this piece so far. The other side will be completed, the piece finished down the center back and the outer collar added. There will then be an additional, decorative piece sewn onto the center back and the whole 'shawl' will attach to the jacket with snaps. I also need to complete the decorative 'ribbing' stitching detail over the shoulders of the jacket but there's plenty of time for that to happen down the line... Here's what the one side of the 'shawl' looks like pinned to the jacket.
shawl-5.jpg
shawl-6.jpg
shawl-7.jpg

Next up: the 'shawl' is completed and the torso construction begins! Stay tuned...

jacket-1.jpg


jacket-2.jpg


shawl-art.jpg


shawl-pattern-1.jpg


shawl-1.jpg


shawl-2.jpg


shawl-3.jpg


shawl-4.jpg


shawl-5.jpg


shawl-6.jpg


shawl-7.jpg
 
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Thanks guys! Got to work on it a little today (not as much as I would have liked). I got the shoulder piece done and started on the two variant torsos. Not really enough for an update, but I'll have more to share over the weekend. ;)

Cheers!
 
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