How to polish the helmet?

NikitaBarinov

New Member
Guys, I do helmet Mark 42. Glued model cemented, plastered Novol Unisoft. Next plastered wood putty to make it easier to grind. Already put a layer of 10, but did not get to achieve a flat surface without bumps. I looked through a lot of great work, I want to dod the same. How to grind?





 
My opinion here is to get a high grit sandpaper (220 or higher; 320 will better) and a foam sanding block and sand it by hand until all the major bumps are resolved. Then use a very thin filler to touch up and cracks or chips, and sand again with 320. If you are completely committed to a very high-gloss final look, wipe down the piece after that last sanding with a damp rag, cover it with primer in very light layers and take another look for imperfections. sand those down, prime one last time, and then paint the first coat. Wet sand the first coat when it has curedcompletely (spray paint - about 8 hours; other paint - according to the directions). "Wet sanding" means you're going to use a very fine sand paper (400 grit or higher) which is also damp to make your sanding as smooth as possible. Sand all the imperfections out of the first paint layer, and then paint again. Dry and wet sand again. Repeat, in fact, until you have 4-5 layers of fine sanding.

This process, when done with saintly patience, can give you a final surface as smooth as glass.

Good tutorial:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBENX1uvZak
 
My opinion here is to get a high grit sandpaper (220 or higher; 320 will better) and a foam sanding block and sand it by hand until all the major bumps are resolved. Then use a very thin filler to touch up and cracks or chips, and sand again with 320. If you are completely committed to a very high-gloss final look, wipe down the piece after that last sanding with a damp rag, cover it with primer in very light layers and take another look for imperfections. sand those down, prime one last time, and then paint the first coat. Wet sand the first coat when it has curedcompletely (spray paint - about 8 hours; other paint - according to the directions). "Wet sanding" means you're going to use a very fine sand paper (400 grit or higher) which is also damp to make your sanding as smooth as possible. Sand all the imperfections out of the first paint layer, and then paint again. Dry and wet sand again. Repeat, in fact, until you have 4-5 layers of fine sanding.

This process, when done with saintly patience, can give you a final surface as smooth as glass.

Good tutorial:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBENX1uvZak

Thanks!
 
Me too. I had to click on through to read more!!!! Now I have to comment.

Start off with about 500 grit. Anything less will put grooves into your surface and once those are there you have to sand down to that level. Move up to 1000, 1200 and finally 2000 for the final sanding. Be sure to buy the wet sand paper so you can use get the sandpaper wet when you sand. Be sure not to press too hard so that you get uneven surfaces. Once you are finished hit the bucket with primer and use 2000 grit wet sandpaper to get that final smooth finish. Some people say to sand in between paint coats but if you use the Rustoleum metallic series there is no need to. Go light on each coat so that you don't develop uneven layers and what is called "orange peel" texture. Follow the temperature directions on the can when laying down the spray paint because drying will react to different temps as in too hot too cold moisture, etc.
 
This thread is more than 9 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top