I played this game a bit last year cos I was crazy about the designs too, but the gameplay itself didn't really hook me and I don't have time to play games anyway :C That said I'm psyched you want to make a costume and I WANNA SEE IT so I'd like to help
I've been toying with the idea of using a camera to see out of the helmet. Has anyone here used a similar setup? If so, how would I wire it? What supplies would I need?
I've never personally used a camera for costumes though I have considered it... it's an expensive complicated hassle and I think because there are plenty of alternatives, that camera-only vision isn't a great idea. And if you use it, have it be supplemental so you aren't 100% relying on it, and even then for safety reasons you should probably have a handler/costume buddy/seeing-eye friend with any costume where your vision is impaired even a little bit. ESPECIALLY at busy conventions.
However, if I ever needed one I'd probably go with this combo:
backup camera:
http://amzn.com/B009NVXGAI
video glasses:
http://www.adafruit.com/products/1452
screen is MUCH cheaper than video glasses but of course, bulky:
http://amzn.com/B00J2PEJTC
someone in the product reviews has a few comments on how you might run it off a battery so that's a good starting point!
I was considering multiple camera/screen combo like this for giant robot costumes to provide peripheral & rear vision.
Another thing to think about is where would you place the camera? The reason to consider the camera in the first place is because his face is a blank expanse of white. Any reasonable place to put it on the helmet causes the same issue as eyeholes. Putting the camera on your collarbone has the potential to be very disorienting whenever you turn your head.
And for this I honestly don't think it's necessary. So here's what I'd do:
- Definitely move the helmet face seams forward a bit to a place where you can put eye holes. Don't even make them directly over your eyes, leave em a bit to the side because peripheral vision is valuable and you can always turn your head slightly to see what's directly in front of you.
- periscope hidden in the horn! really:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Cardboard-Periscope/ the opening can be a small horizontal slit or row of holes, this'll give you at least some directly-forward vision
- mold the white part of the "faceplate" out of clear resin and stretch white spandex over it. Glue the spandex down in a few strategic areas to conform to the helmet shape. With spandex on top you can make as many small breathing holes in the resin mask as you want without disrupting the smooth shape. White metallic spandex is shiny enough that it won't look as much like fabric.
- instead of molding resin, use pepakura technique but with clear plastic (possibly some combination of clear styrene or picture-framing acetate, like so:
http://amzn.com/B001K7Q6Z0) instead of paper.
- alternatively use fabric-stiffening techniques to form a shape out of the spandex. You can mold a base shape out of metal craft/armature mesh, and reinforce it from behind. If you are interested in going this direction I have links to plenty of tutorials. Breathing will be easy, you'll be able to make out light and shapes so you don't have to rely ONLY on pinholes to see what's around, etc.
Definitely construct a vision-rig first, then make a mockup copy of it in cardboard/foil/whatever and stick that on your mannequin before sculpting.
I honestly wouldn't make the costume out of much molded latex at all, parts of the helmet and arms/legs/small details sure, but it's not super detailed all over in a way that would benefit from being entirely sculpted instead of constructed. Like the chest panel is a big smooth area that would be easy to cut out of eva foam and a hassle to sculpt/mold. I don't know if you've commited to fully sculpting/molding but if not, consider a foam/spandex padded bodysuit? Glossy stretch pvc or metallic spandex over foam is a really popular technique (especially with mecha and plugsuits) and using that with either eva foam or soft batting or upholstery foam (or all three) to get the shapes you want, with strategic gluing and stitching/needle sculpting you can get the same look as something sculpted in clay but the final costume will be much more flexible/breathable/stretchy/comfortable, I can't stress that enough! If your costume is more comfortable you can show it off longer
If you don't want to sew a whole bodysuit there are zentai sites that will make them to measure in fabric of your choice. Get two in the dark color and stuff foam between 'em for muscles, add the white armor (sculpted/molded latex, or vinyl-over-foam technique depending on shape and location) on top.
The key to making it look good is ALWAYS in the finishing, painting highlights/shadows, knowing where to make it shiny or matte (high gloss varnish or matte plasti-dip spray, painting latex over spandex, etc), airbrushing, etc.
Check out these fabrics,
http://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/10941
http://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/7056
http://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/1927
http://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/11277
http://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/11849
http://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/12112
And these these tutorials.
http://z4.invisionfree.com/transcostumers/index.php?showtopic=760
http://www.thehunterslair.com/topic/4477-macguyvers-mr-incredible-suit-huntorial-lots-of-pics/
http://www.matrices.net/foam.asp
http://www.nyunyucosplay.com/?page_id=1265
http://www.theeffectslab.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2473
https://www.youtube.com/user/GoldyMarg/videos (goldy is my hero)
Looking forward to seeing what you do