Are you using fiberglass resin for pepakura props?

Hi everyone,I'm the new joiner from Hong Kong.I would like to make my props.I just read "The PEPAKURA question thread"
However I haven't too much knowledge and some links isn't work in "The PEPAKURA question thread"
Would you mind help me?
What is the difference between fiberglass and fiberglass resin?
Are you using fiberglass resin for pepakura props? or other material?
or Should I use Bondo?
and one more question,how can I fix some pit on the finish pepakura item?

from Surreal Studios pics,you can see his helmet very smooth

I use smoothcast and fiberglass mat.

I think it's a terminology issue at stake here. When I say the word "fiberglass", what I'm referring to is a layup that uses both resin and fiber (either the woven matt or the straw like fibers). Some people say "fiberglass resin" when referring to JUST the resin, the liquid part. Some people say "fiberglass matting" when referring to the stuff that is NOT the liquid.

I guess it's just what you're used to.

But, to simplify things, think of it this way: the liquid is "resin", the fabric stuff is "matting".

In general, the common practice for pepakura models is to brush on a layer of resin (ie, fiberglass resin) and once it cures, you go into the INSIDE of the shape and lay in some resin and matting.

I guess the confusion comes in because "resin" is a term that is also applied to other products that have nothing to do with a fiberglass process. Smoothcast is actually not designed to be used with a fiber matting. it CAN be, but it's not designed to be. It's resin, but not resin that is intended for fiberglassing ,if that makes any sense.


SOOO, the punchline is that the resin you want to use when fiberglassing is called "Fiberglassing resin".

oy.

I hope I didn't just make things worse

Thank you MattMunson and Broadway204
I found a video for the step and marking of.However I still misunderstand some material.I have a presumptuous request.Would you mind show me some pics for those?


How to build Halo armor Part 3: Resin - YouTube

There I have a question: I read in the FAQ that you MUST NOT put the fiberglass on the outside of Peparuka...why?....and if you put it in the inside, how do you achieve that smooth-looking curves?...because the Peparuka model is made of joined flat and angled surfaces, so how can you smooth it if you don't put a lot of fiberglass and sand it to a round curve???

I quit using fiberglass resin months ago, now all I use is urathane resin. I brush a coat outside, and slush a coat or two inside. Does'nt smell as bad as fiberglass resin does and it's just as strong.

simple: fibreglass has a texture. and you want a smooth surface

fibreglass is put inside, to strengthen the paper.
on the outside, you usually put a layer of resin, and then use some kind of body filler, and then it needs to be sanded, then filled again, sanding and filling, allways just filling the spots where the surface is not flat and so on
its important not to use too much bondo, as it gets heavier and loses detail. and with fibreglass on the outside, you would have to get the texture of it out, and therefor use more bondo, sanding, and also lose detail

i hope you understood what im saying

Sure, got it!....but doesn't all the layers of stuff you put outside add too much volume to the original thing....and mess up with the shape?

The heat caused from the fiberglass resin can sometimes warp the piece. Also fiberglass resin does'nt work very well in cold tempatures.

Armageddon said:

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Sure, got it!....but doesn't all the layers of stuff you put outside add too much volume to the original thing....and mess up with the shape?

its not like you put layer upon layer of filler on it

you put one layer of filler on it, and sand it.
then you see, where you have holes and stuff, and put filler on there until you have a perfect surface

PepMaster said:

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I quit using fiberglass resin months ago, now all I use is urathane resin. I brush a coat outside, and slush a coat or two inside. Does'nt smell as bad as fiberglass resin does and it's just as strong.

What brand are you using and where are you getting it? Home improvement, auto, or boat store?

Model-Pro Resin from SpecialityResins on eBay, $60 for a 1 Gallon Kit, or $100 for a 2 Gallon Kit is what I pay I think.

PepMaster said:

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The heat caused from the fiberglass resin can sometimes warp the piece. Also fiberglass resin does'nt work very well in cold tempatures.

Or to Hot. This summer when it was 100 degrees outside I used the exact mixture of hardener to resin that set up perfectly, only this time it never set up and was permanently sticky.

I mixed a new batch from the same supplies a few days later when it was 70 and it dried perfectly again.

Thank you simul8r,thanks everyone.
I'm making Dc-17 hand blaster(Rex's gun) now,I've one question.
If fiberglass is basic level inside the paper,but how can I do that for this little gun
Everyone give me more information,but I don't know how to implement now.Thanks.

For a pepakura gun that can become intresting, I've done one of three things usually for it. Pour a lot of fiberglass resin into the gun if it has a open end let it get a good coat inside and any leftover resin that's inside I move into the grip area and let it cure. 2. I've used expanding foam, but that can be tricky you don't want to blow up the prop. and 3 the other thing I've done is cut a prop in half, add fiberglass cloth and resin , then close it up.

Thanks PepMaster
but i still misunderstand how can I do that .maybe i'm misunderstand your text,would you send me some pics or video?

push to top

Not too hard. If your gun has an open end, like the part where the bullet is supposed to come out, just mix a batch of resin, and pour it in. Then turn it around a while, until you think the entire inside is covered. You can then either pour the excess resin out, or let it go into the handle, so that the handle is solid.

Like PepMaster said for option #3: Do a coat of resin on the outside of the pep. Once cured cut the gun down the middle into 2 mirrored halves. Do your 2-3 layers of fiberglass on the inside. Cure and trim the excess glass off at the edges and put your 2 halves back together. Smooth and seal the seam with a filler

Here's a link I found How To Use PEPAKURA For Costume Building- Part 1 -( New INTRO) - YouTube that has a series of 7 videos on the whole process that is very interesting if you are just starting out. It was posted by another member and it goes through step by step. Hope it helps.

thank you thank you
thanks everyone
I'll try my best

Welcome to the group. One solution for the gun would to use a resin or similar product on the outside to make a solid shell. Then get a minimal expanding foam, put two small openings, on either end and spray some foam in. Use the minimal expanding so you dont blow apart the gun. will harden rock solid. Work well for holding wires and such in place as well.

EyeofSauron said:

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Not too hard. If your gun has an open end, like the part where the bullet is supposed to come out, just mix a batch of resin, and pour it in. Then turn it around a while, until you think the entire inside is covered. You can then either pour the excess resin out, or let it go into the handle, so that the handle is solid.

This is something i have been doing for a couple props and it works great.

However I do it a little differently. I build the pep with the tabs on the outside but i don't use resin on the outside. Then when the pep is finished i cut a little hole at one side and pour resin inside and slush it around until it cured, then i put the whole thing in a bucket of water so that the paper will start to dissolve, then i can sand it so all the paper is gone.

I did one pep helmet recently, and needed it to be the finished helmet... no molding and casting... so it needed to still be relatively lightweight for the wearer, and I used (what I had on hand already) polyester laminating resin and fiberglass. I resin-ed the paper (card stock) first so it was stiffer, and then glassed the inside with one overlapping layer of once-and-a-half fiberglass mat. Then sanded and filled the outside (sparingly) as needed. It worked great!