TUTORIAL: Using PEPAKURA for FOAM Costume Building -Part 4 - Sealing and Painting

STEALTH

Hi everyone
I'm creating a Tutorial Series on

"How To Use Pepakura For Foam Costume Building"

I will update these as I go. I know some people know how to do this but I hope this helps those that are in the dark about it.

Thank you for watching

-STEALTH

TUTORIAL - Using PEPAKURA for FOAM Costume Building - Part 1 - INTRO

TUTORIAL - Using PEPAKURA for FOAM Costume Building - Part 2 - Modifying Pepakura Files

TUTORIAL - Using PEPAKURA for FOAM Costume Building - Part 3 - Using the Templates with the FOAM

TUTORIAL - Using PEPAKURA for FOAM Costume Building - Part 4 - Painting Foam Costumes "

Bonus Tutorial
TUTORIAL - "SUIT UP!" How to Connect Foam Armor Costume Parts

Lucien Kane

Oooh I think I may need this soon lol Thank you!

3jack

Thanks Stealth, this will be a MASSIVE help

STEALTH

Np guys
I'm gonna try to get the next part out either tonight or tomorrow night. Already filmed it. Just have to edit it.

STEALTH

Part 2 is up

Wadeish

Very cool! I'll have to give it a try and see if its faster

Mikehazard

i watched alot of your tutorials last night great work man. im about to start on a war machine build

i found this website it seemed to have some good tips about working with EVA foam

How to Work with EVA Foam

STEALTH

Great link Mike. Ill mention that in the next part.
Ill give you a shout out.

Mikehazard

glad i could help.

jayjayn

just watched your videos.. great work and can't wait to see more.. i really want to try out foam... did you try making a helmet with foam?

STEALTH

Good question. I was gonna mention this in the next video as I forgot to in the intro.
I'd suggest using thinner craft foam for a helmet. Graphicjordan and indiefilmgeek use 3mm and 4mm eva craft foam for their projects. You can find it on ebay and at art stores.

Mikehazard

Do you harden it the same way you would pep? Or just paint it

STEALTH

nah,
You could if you really wanted to but it defeats the purpose of making a lightweight, flexible suit.
Might as well just make a paper version right?

Once you build the part, you seal it which is the preparation to paint it

people use: plasti-dip, mod podge, flexbond etc to coat the foam so that when you paint it, the foam can flex without paint cracking.

indiefilmgeek

Great stuff! I'm totally pointing anyone asking me about 'pep-2-foam' builds toward your video series - it will save thousands of typed words!

Great info on modding the files before printing. I personally, don't do as much modifying inside Pepakura... I just cut the darn tabs off as I'm cutting the pieces off of the pages. But it's a great idea to do it in the program so you have numbered connection points (which you might not need... but I certainly do!). It would also help you quickly and easily go back to the templates if you need to re-print a piece (to use as templates for detailing lines, screw/bolt placement, etc).

One pointer that might be obvious to most people is the fact that sometimes you'll get an angry little message after you send the file to your printer asking if you would like the scale the file to 'fit the page'. If you've measured carefully already you want to select NO on that -- or your scale will be all off.

***

I'm really looking forward to your video regarding cutting the pieces out.

SIDE NOTE: I don't know how you handle notation on your pieces. I tend to 'over-note' my templates and foam pieces.

For example, I'll write "+1/2in" with an arrow toward edges that will need to have some additional material added (for overlays let's say). I also write on all the legs and arm parts an 'R' or an 'L' on the numbered side of the paper pep pieces so I remember which side the original (non-inverted) side was for. Lastly, I write an 'R' and an 'L' (or and 'F' for facing) on each foam piece so I can quickly tell which is the outside 'facing' piece. That helps out a bunch when you have symmetrical parts from both sides of your helmet, for example.

I digress.... sorry.

I always find tricks and tips I can use by watching your videos or reading your threads! I'm looking forward to seeing and reading more!

Thanks SO much for your contributions!

indiefilmgeek

I agree with STEALTH that hardening all your foam pieces seems to defeat the purpose of using this material, but I wanted to point out a couple places where I've definitely used hardening on my pieces.

For areas were there will be bolts, hinges or other metal/plastic pieces penetrating the foam (or mounted onto the foam), I paint those areas with quick setting epoxy. It gives the foam a hardened shell that stands up much better to the wear and tear these areas will receive.

An example would be the bolted hinge points on the Ironman forearm, elbow and bicep pieces. I have a 'hole' at the sides of the bicep piece. These are for the binding bolt (mounted on the elbow piece) to pass through and hold the two together -- while allowing it to hinge at those points. Just so the foam doesn't rip out, I not only epoxied that area, I also added a metal washer to the inside so the 'hole' had some re-enforcing.

You can see the washer and re-enforced areas here...



Finished version looks like this...


Just use this sparingly, as too much will harden up the foam piece and then you're not able to take advantage of the best features of this costuming materials -- flexibility and comfort.

Good luck with your build!

mmgraphics

This is just awesome stuff!

Nice and handy tutorials! Thanks a lot for that.

Grave

cant wait for the next vid. went and got the 1/4 foam and printed off my helmet. going to start it tomorrow.

Mikehazard

Thanks for the info guys I wouldn't have thought of adding the washer to reinforce the joints until after my costume tore

OB10

Wow, that is fantastic! Kinda gives me a couple ideas. Which often winds up taking more time and money than I want. Thanks for the videos!

Grave

thanks stealth. i started cutting out pieces for my helmet. the 1/4 you showed in your vid, cuts easier. also i am able to have a lot less waste than the 1/2" sheets.

in 2 hours. i sized and edited the war machine helmet. cut out a dozen templates starting at the back of the head and assembled those foam pieces.
sweet deal!

STEALTH

yeah, half inch is really thick for a helmet. I'd go even thinner than a 1/4" if you can find it.
For helmets specifically.

Thanks Indiefilmgeek. You went above and beyond. That was really well said.
As for the putting L and R on the parts when you trace them.

That's a great idea which I do as well.
I explain it in the next video when I'm tracing everything out. Just need to edit the footage.

The epoxy is a great idea. Something I will do on areas that need extra strength as I tested a piece of foam a while back and it bonds very well with the foam. I saw Wondersquid do this on his foam war machine build to reinforce the area that held up the mini gun.
I have been using cardboard on the inside at the moment.
It does the job but overtime the epoxy will last longer.

Thanks for all the extra info guys. This is really awesome and I appreciate it
I'm not a pro at this, I'm just explaining what I know.
So we're all learning together.
This extra input from people helps a lot because I will probably miss a lot.

Kal

You sir are my new hero. Now even a dumb @ss like me can make something. Thank you, Thank you. (my wife will not be thanking you, in fact she is mad at you. Cause now you gave me yet more projects I can start on)

Rob

metrosonus

thanks man. those tips will come in handy with my TDK build.

I like your hat, I have the same one

jayjayn

took me a while trying to find the foam just like the one your using especially the length, all the other brands were pretty short and expensive then finally found this one from sears
Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

hopefully this is the same one your using and at 46 in. x 93 in. that a really great deal.

indiefilmgeek

Just a quick link to the post where I listed where you can get the 3mm and 4mm EVA foam Jordan and I use.

LINK to 3mm and 4mm EVA Foam