Tips from Newbie to Newbies (on foam build - for now)

Hi All,
I just started to pep and foam building a while ago and got hooked on this thing.
During my foam building an Iron Man suit, I gained a lot from the RPF forum, the masters and the gurus.
I woud like to return the favor by adding my ideas/tips for foam building.
Anybody that would like to join please welcome.

I added the list of the tips on the first page
#1: Iron man HIP POD
#2: Helmet's back mod
#3: Shoulder cap
#4: hanging upper forehead
#5: Auto eyes on-off
#6: Check the scale
#7: No Helmet at first
#8: Light source placement for Iron man helmet
#9: Easy repulsor assembly
#10 Arc reactor
#11: cleaning excess cut....................p2
#12: Use solder
#12a: The importance of tools
#14: P's in Pepakura
#15 Helmet's Crown
#16 LED strip installation
#17 Build in pairs................................p3
#18 Dots for mountain and valley angle cuts
#19 Connecting the fingers
#20: Arc reactor (upgrade)
#21: Difference of unibeam and arc reactor.........p4
#22: Foam or Paper?
#23: Which part to start?
#24: Mark it right
#25 PVC mannequin............................p5
#26 Undershirt glowing arc reactor.......................p6
#27: Making Low temp Glue gun............................p7
#28 Protect your thumb
#29 Undershirt glowing arc reactor 2

My tip #1: Iron man HIP POD

I tried to make a simple hip pod yet still respresentable.
I used DVD disc (or CD) as a base, and cut three foam pieces: outer ring, inner ring and mid section (I used 10mm for this so it would rise up).
I use pep file for hip pod as guideline.
Outer ring is not flat, because the pattern is like a cut ring.
Others are flat.
I was running out of silver paint, so it didn't finish well. You can still see the rainbow reflection of the DVD (not covered with paint.
Let's just say, my Iron man suit have 2 x 4.7GB extra storage in my hips.

More tips to come.

Tip #2: Helmet's back mod

For easy head in-out, I saw on youtube Iron Man Helmet Explained - YouTube by Aferry1995.
So I did some modification.
It is quite hard to make a ring like in video, so I just detach the end of the helmet, add foam and attach it back using Chicago screw attached in ear areas.
To ensure it , I added two pairs of rare magnets, so it has click sounds when secure at close position
Yellow shows a detached part of lower helmet with added foam.
Green is small piece function as a stopper
Red indicates small magnets
Apologize for crappy pictures

Tip #3: Shoulder cap

I have tons of water gallon caps (red), and milk carton caps (white).
We can use soda cap too, but since I reducing (or quitting) drinking soda, I don't have it anymore (which is a good excuse to buy ones).
First put the white cap on top of the red one and mark it.
Cut a hole in the middle of red cap (it doesn't have to be perfect round), so the white cap can sit in the middle of its thickness (depending on how much you want the white one to stick out).
Run hot melt glue on the inner side, wipe the excess glue that oozes out on the outer side.
The wiped glue should fill the gap for imperfect hole-cut.
Might work on knee cap too, I haven't try it yet.
It's not perfect, but they are close to identical and it saves a lot of time.

Tip #4: hanging upper forehead

I do not fiberglass or using Bondo for the helmet.
I have manual faceplate that can open and close.
But on the helmet, the uper forehead is hanging and it troubles me bacuase it interfere with the position of the faceplate.
I use foam about 3 x30cm (mark it green) to secure upperforehead section from cheek/jaw-to cheek/jaw. It has other function too, explain later


Are these tips helpful to you? Should I continue or stop?

Oke, thank you for the feedback.
Moving on:

Tip #5: Auto eyes on-off

Even though my faceplate is not motorized, but when I open my faceplate, the eyes went off, and vice versa.
The trick is to add magnets and use it as a switch.

First you need to scribe or sand one side of the magnet. Make sure the chrome plate is off. This will make better contact for the lead to fuse.
The soldered side should be the same as the glues side. because you want to have flat and wide contact for each magnet side.

Long story short, black wire connects from battery to magnet, magnet to the light, same for red wire.
I put the battery pack at the back of the head by just stick a magnet to the helmet. Since the battery body is metal, it'll stick. However make sure the magnet is strong or big enough, other wise the battery will fall.

The magnet should be placed at the edge of the faceplate and on the extension foam mentioned on tip#4.
In that way, when the faceplate is closed, the magnets will make electrical connection and turn on the eyes.

Need to do try different sizes of magnet to get best magnet force. Too much, the faceplate is hard to open. Too small, the connection is not good.

Tip #6: Check the scale

Yesterday I forgot (for my own project) the basic step on pep: Scaling.
Recently a lot of posting regarding scaling and how to scale.
I am not gonna cover for that.
My rule of thumb: measure your body, add clearance (depending where or how fit you want to be) and add foam thickness times two.
Print one of the pages that will represent the whole length (or width or height, whichever applicable) and test fit.

Thank you MattCorneIM and Shades,
Glad you find these helpful.

Tip #7: No Helmet at first

Most of people when they want to start making costume, they started with the helmet/mask. I did the samething.

PLEASE DON"T.

The picture tells you why.

In fact I did 7 helmets, before I finally happy with final one.
2 helmets didn't make it to the picture, one ended up like ewok with fiberglass hair (fiberglass failed experiment), the other didn't make it to painting stage because I painted with err....painball gun (putty failed experiment).
I just adding a new helmet to my unused helmet collection today: Mk8 (or Mk VIII, or Iron Man 3)

Start with something simple. Which one is simple? Try less number of parts and bigger sizes. Handplate, shoulder, abs, are good for a start.

@Shades: I didn't notice earlier. I admire your work on batman costume.

Tip #8: Light source placement for Iron man helmet
I just wrote a suggestion in other thread, so I just post it here as one of my tips for the day (how lazy of me!)

Basically, there are two basic techniques to place the light source: direct and indirect. Notice i use "light source", so it can be LED. EL or whatever.
Direct lighting is more brighter and indirect.

Basic things to build "lit eyes": containment (box), lenses, light source, reflector/refractor.

Contaiment area (black parts on the illustration) is where we assembled the whole thing. Normally black on the outside and it can be white on inside or just leave it as it is.

Lenses (light blue) is used to protect and cover the light source. It can be polycarbonate, acrylic or clear plastic sheets. Just make sure it is thick/strong enough for protection yet clear enough to see (if you need to see thru). Lens can be book cover, food container, or CD case. Look something easy, it's around you.

Light source (blue): most popular is LED. I use 2 strip of LED strip 30LED/m. LED strips normally sold in rolls of 5m. Alternatively, use DIP LED. This is bulkier and have to connect them one by one. EL will have a very low profile container since it does not need space between the source and lens (even lens might not be needed). However EL need to have a driver unit (which can be easily put elsewhere). I experimented with EL but I personnaly prefer LEDs.

Reflector is needed for indirect setting. It can be plastic mesh painted in white, bridal's veil (oh yeah). I used PWMF sticker since it is originally white in front and black in the back. Basically something to reflect the light yet we can still see thru. For direct setting, reflector can be as simply as paint it in white (do not use silver) or lining the inside with white paper. I find it not very much difference wheter it is white or black.

Refractor is used to disperse the light. Since LED is a homogenious and straight light, with the small distance with lens, it will create "circles"
Refractor normally is place behind the lens. Some people sand the lens to create sandblast effect, I use magic transparent tape (see office supplies). I read on RPF member suggested to use surgical rubber gloves, which is a good idea (Sorry, I forgot the name)

Whatever you want to use to lit the eyes, just make sure the light do not leak into your eyes.

See thru or see-under does not necessarily related to direct and indirect setting

So light up the world, starting with the your eyes.

@Helagak: thank you for your kind comments. Any help for your foam building, just let me know. Glad I can help.

Tip #8: bridal's veil is actually XRobots' idea, here's his link

XRobots.co.uk - Iron Man MkVI Armour

Thank you very much for your information about foam building and electronic tips. The credit goes to him.

I used his idea and created mine. Instead of veil, I use PWMF sticker. The placement of the LED is different too. Well, I used his basic idea and goes from there.
MAster XRobots, you're my inspiration.

Tip #9: Easy repulsor assembly

(Repulsor 1)
I used bottle cap from bubble gum (I removed the brand).
(Repulsor 2)
I don't have any spare bottle cap, so I borrowed my daughter's bottle. I cut a square hole and use it for coin bank, so there's a cut hole.
You see there is an excess inner lid (or ring, whatever). That's important.
(Repulsor 3)
Cut a circle ring, match up with the lid diameter.
Cut a foam strip about 3-4 cm width (depending how tight is your glove)
The length should covered the circumference of the lid.
Glue it and make it like the picture. Punch a hole for cable
Light source and be anything. Mine happen to be SMD LED, so it is very low profile. Bigger LED like DIP will make the white cap have lighted "dots"
(Repulsor 4)
Remember the inner lid? I used 2mm foam and it matched perfectly, so both lis (outer and inner) function as guiding rail.
(Repulsor 5)
Get a thinner switch you can find
(Repulsor 6)
Place it like so. Mine does not been installed yet, so for the purpose of this. lets just said it is connected that way.
(Repulsor 7)
Installed in in the palm. I happen to adjust the palm to match my repulsor kit.

Do on-off spiderman style, or simply press the palm over something.
Have fun.

PS: can somebody show me how to put a pictue in the text, instead of attachment?

@ Freaklord: thanks, I find it quite similar yes. I tried not to use the switch there because it is too small and not thin enough. However since you place it againt hard plastic, it should be okay. My type of switch have bigger and rounded edge, so it is more safe to put against foam, but it my case it will be against my gloves.

@calel 15: you just give me aother idea to make tip#10!!!

@Spider M Mann: I see down arrow next to attachment. My question more specific: how can I attach a picture on the post which is not attachment and not url link (insert image icon goes to url link).
I saw most of the people do inserted images in their post.
Thanks you for finding my tips helpful.

Tip #10 Arc reactor

My arc reactor is cheap, and very very easy to do. I use butter container cap (I blurred the brand). I removed the label. The glue on the label is surprisingly tough to remove. I used goo-gone, citrus-based cleaner, it is still won't come off. I stuck with somewhat blurry and rough surface, more like sandblasted surface.
So I just flipped and use the inner side as the outer side of the arc reactor. It turned out the glue function as diffuser, nice!
As for the body and lighting, I use similar approach as repulsor. The body is made out of foam, the light source is using bigger LED ring.
I wanted to use JFcustom's technique by inserted thin printed paper layer to create "arc" shadows, but I decided not to. I like rounded homogenoius glowing arc.
JFcustom (my Master) created arc reactor from mineral water bottle. Check it out
http://www.therpf.com/f24/foam-speed...s-iron-148889/
If you want $$$ solution, you can order 3-5mm acrylic (white translucent or clear if you want to show off nice arc reactor), do laser cutting for nice precision. The body can be made out of acrylic too. I'd use metal finished sticker to cover it

IMIM2 said:

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how can I attach a picture on the post which is not attachment and not url link (insert image icon goes to url link).

I'm not exactly sure where you are having trouble, so I'll try to go through it for you in order to clarify; forgive me if I explain something you already know, I just want to be thorough. Please let me know if you need further help. (And sorry for hijacking your thread. )

The image you want to post "inline" needs to be uploaded to one of three places, and then wherever the text cursor is located when you use the Insert Image icon is where the image will be inserted in-line into the body of the post.

Here are the places where the images need to be uploaded:

1) An online, web-based image host like Flickr, which you link to directly with the Insert Image icon, which as you said uses the link to the address of the image.

2) Upload to an album in your User Control Panel (Look under "Networking" to the "Pictures & Albums" on the left hand side). The space in your albums is limited, so I personally wouldn't use this option, but if you do, just click on the image in your album, and the picture will be shown with the URLs below it. Just hotlink the image with the Insert Image icon (note that the image will not be shown in the "Attached Thumbnails" section at the bottom of the post, for this option, or #1 above):



3) Upload as an attachment, like you have been doing in your previous posts. Then, use the address of the attached image as the target when you use the Insert Image icon. In other words, hotlink your own attachment, like this next picture (note the "Attached Thumbnails" image at the bottom of the post is the same image):