Smoothcast Vs. Resin and Fiberglass

Grenex

Active Member
I have read a bit of threads that discuss the use of Smoothcast 300 and I like the idea that it has no odor. It would be ideal for me to use in the colder months in my garage.

Couple of questions I have:
1. Is smooth cast just as strong as resin? I intend to wear my armor occasionally, but not crazy use.
2. Can I brush on the smooth cast on to the parts instead of sloshing it around?
 
smooth cast is resin. Is it as strong as fiberglass NO. Yes it can be brushed on in small amounts, it sets fast.
 
smooth cast is resin. Is it as strong as fiberglass NO. Yes it can be brushed on in small amounts, it sets fast.

So for my general use/display it should do me fine it sounds. :)
I saw stealth had gallon jugs with PUMP nozzels on it. Does that pump come with the gallon bottles?
 
same place you get the resin,

I don't use them anymore. They made it sound like you HAD to use them.

Don't bother, just pour, weigh and mix.

I only wanted to use them to keep it cleaner when pouring.

ANy tips for brushing it on parts? Do you need to apply more than two coats? How fast does it set?
 
same place you get the resin,

I don't use them anymore. They made it sound like you HAD to use them.

Don't bother, just pour, weigh and mix.

Why? Maybe because you use foam for your project? But you don't mold that right? I am trying to find an alternative to resin because in winter is diffucult to harder and the odor is terrible. Maybe the smooth cast is my product.

smooth cast is resin. Is it as strong as fiberglass NO. Yes it can be brushed on in small amounts, it sets fast.

Which type of smooth cast?300?320?
 
Smooth cast 300 sets up in under 10 minutes, depending on the thickness. If you're brushing it on, you might want to give it a little more time.

Here's the kicker though: smooth cast will not bond with itself as well as a fiberglassing resin like West Systems. It WILL bond to itself, just not as well. You will probably experience a degree of delamination when you are sanding it down.

Also, smooth cast mixes by volume, not weight.

In my opinion, for pepakura stuff, fiberglassing resin is a better choice, but NOT the cheapo stuff you get at home depot. Spend the extra money to get a marine grade resin, and some good cloth or matting. Whatever money you think you'll be saving by buying the cheap stuff, you will lose in the time you waste dealing with the stuff. Please trust me on this one! lol
 
Smooth cast 300 sets up in under 10 minutes, depending on the thickness. If you're brushing it on, you might want to give it a little more time.

Here's the kicker though: smooth cast will not bond with itself as well as a fiberglassing resin like West Systems. It WILL bond to itself, just not as well. You will probably experience a degree of delamination when you are sanding it down.
Sorry, I don't understand. I can't use a normal bondo on smooth cast?

Also, smooth cast mixes by volume, not weight.

difficult...

In my opinion, for pepakura stuff, fiberglassing resin is a better choice, but NOT the cheapo stuff you get at home depot. Spend the extra money to get a marine grade resin, and some good cloth or matting. Whatever money you think you'll be saving by buying the cheap stuff, you will lose in the time you waste dealing with the stuff. Please trust me on this one! lol

I believe you but the fiberglass resin have a orrible odor and is toxic like smooth cast, I want a resin with no odor maybe acqua resin?
 
In my opinion, for pepakura stuff, fiberglassing resin is a better choice, but NOT the cheapo stuff you get at home depot. Spend the extra money to get a marine grade resin, and some good cloth or matting. Whatever money you think you'll be saving by buying the cheap stuff, you will lose in the time you waste dealing with the stuff. Please trust me on this one! lol

So I bought Bondo brand resin at Lowes. This is not as good as other brands? It is not Marine grade?



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Bondo resin is essentially the absolute low end of the product spectrum. While I'm sure it has served many people well, it's still a low end product. It shrinks, stinks, and you have to mix the heck out of it to get it to cure uniformly. Shelf life is also limited. it's also not very strong, in the grand scheme of things. While I wouldn't classify it as brittle, compared to other pro-grade products, it's junk.

I personally recommend the West Systems line, but it's price tag is not for the squeamish. But as usual, you get exactly what you pay for. West systems has a much milder odor than the entirely toxic 3m/bondo stuff, has a more forgiving and easy to manage mix ratio, and cures a very light amber. It bonds to itself and ANYTHING else very strongly. This is the stuff they build boat hulls out of.

To sirciarly, if you find mixing by volume difficult, I recommend picking up some clear cups and just putting them side by side on your work bench prior to pouring. It may quite possibly be the most simple way in the world to measure out equal portions of resin. Most smooth-on products are FAIRLY forgiving with their mix ratio, so if you are off by a little, it will still cure.

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So I bought Bondo brand resin at Lowes. This is not as good as other brands? It is not Marine grade?

In direct answer to your question, there are many brands far superior to Bondo/3m. I would even go so far as to say ANY other brand is better. No, it is not marine grade. I would rate it as an experimental/hobbyist grade.
 
Bondo resin is essentially the absolute low end of the product spectrum. While I'm sure it has served many people well, it's still a low end product. It shrinks, stinks, and you have to mix the heck out of it to get it to cure uniformly. Shelf life is also limited. it's also not very strong, in the grand scheme of things. While I wouldn't classify it as brittle, compared to other pro-grade products, it's junk.

I personally recommend the West Systems line, but it's price tag is not for the squeamish. But as usual, you get exactly what you pay for. West systems has a much milder odor than the entirely toxic 3m/bondo stuff, has a more forgiving and easy to manage mix ratio, and cures a very light amber. It bonds to itself and ANYTHING else very strongly. This is the stuff they build boat hulls out of.

To sirciarly, if you find mixing by volume difficult, I recommend picking up some clear cups and just putting them side by side on your work bench prior to pouring. It may quite possibly be the most simple way in the world to measure out equal portions of resin. Most smooth-on products are FAIRLY forgiving with their mix ratio, so if you are off by a little, it will still cure.

- - - Updated - - -



In direct answer to your question, there are many brands far superior to Bondo/3m. I would even go so far as to say ANY other brand is better. No, it is not marine grade. I would rate it as an experimental/hobbyist grade.


Thank you for that info. I'll stop getting 3M then. It's all I've used so far, and I have noticed slight warping with pepped faceplates....I had thought the borders just needed to be thicker, looks like I was wrong.

I'm assuming the best place to buy the good stuff is at a boat store, yes?
 
West Systems as well as our EpoxAmite (same product category) are Epoxy systems, the Bondo is polyester system and Smooth Cast is a urethane system.
Polyester isn't particularly strong without cloth.... Smooth Cast 65D does a good job of sticking together without the delmaination issues.... but epoxies, yes, will bond to anything because they are.. well... EPOXIES!
 
Good points Beaker! I neglected to mention the epoxy/polyester difference!!

I should also point out for the record that I use Smoothcast 300 ALL THE TIME, just not for applications that require brushing on multiple layers.

I will check out the EpoxAmite product. The one real drawback to the west systems line is that it's not cheap.
 
Thank you for that info. I'll stop getting 3M then. It's all I've used so far, and I have noticed slight warping with pepped faceplates....I had thought the borders just needed to be thicker, looks like I was wrong.

I'm assuming the best place to buy the good stuff is at a boat store, yes?

Oddly enough, the best place to buy it is online. I have found from first hand experience that most boat supply stores have IMMENSE markups, mainly because they know their clientele. Do a google search for the stuff you seek, then do some price shopping. There's a place in the marina in Long Beach that literally charges double what I pay for the stuff when I get it online.

I should also point out that switching to a higher grade resin won't guarantee no warpage. Pep is an inherently problematic process, as it depends heavily on materials selection AND process at each phase of the process. If you print on thin card stock, then wet it unevenly, there's plenty of opportunity for warp. However, having seen how polyester resins can cure oddly, it comes as no surprise to me to know that warping is a common problem.
 
Oddly enough, the best place to buy it is online. I have found from first hand experience that most boat supply stores have IMMENSE markups, mainly because they know their clientele. Do a google search for the stuff you seek, then do some price shopping. There's a place in the marina in Long Beach that literally charges double what I pay for the stuff when I get it online.

I should also point out that switching to a higher grade resin won't guarantee no warpage. Pep is an inherently problematic process, as it depends heavily on materials selection AND process at each phase of the process. If you print on thin card stock, then wet it unevenly, there's plenty of opportunity for warp. However, having seen how polyester resins can cure oddly, it comes as no surprise to me to know that warping is a common problem.

This is really great info! Thanks Matt! Funny enough, this is my first prop build and I am new to the site, but I bought one of your replica Fifth Element Multipass kits years ago and always was impressed with your knowledge and skills. Nice to stumble across you here too!

I was simply looking for a way to avoid odors and allow me to continue work on my build thru the colder months as the weather starts to change over here in North America soon. I guess I will look into non 3M branded stuff and see how well it works, but might still try smoothcast 65D as Beaker mentioned to see how it compares.
 
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