Your friend has access to some insane equipment. I've heard pad-stitch machines can cost upwards of $20,000.
Your friend has access to some insane equipment. I've heard pad-stitch machines can cost upwards of $20,000.
Either that, or she misunderstood what I meant when I asked her. :P
TheLark said:
For such a rubbish posting I did on the coat, not to mention the pattern sketches, I am always happy and yet amazed that it's ended up being such a resource. Tell your friend to be aware I got the collar band wrong - wasn't aware until S2 and I found Ray's coat pics. Made me gnash my teeth. The post here hasn't been edited but a person did come back in the comments to discuss and also put up some pics of how it should look, which is awesome. Check the comments down a bit.
Here you can see the guts inside, including, yes, a backstay, and shoulder reinforcement. You can see that the interfacing doesn't mean the entire coat - the wool I used was about a med weight and draped heavy and smooth and didn't need a full interlining. You'll definitely need it in the front so it lays smooth, gives a crisp edge to the front and of course supports the lapels and collar. Apparently you can also add some to the hem as well to give it weight? So says the Tailoring book.
So unless you are using some really light weight wool, you wouldn't need a complete interlining? And NOT in the mohair throughout! That stuff is heavy and stiff - you'd feel armour-plated.
So taking into account the above, no you don't need 6 m of mohair interlining for sure. Just for the front and collar. If she's pad stitching it, you probably don't need much fusible. I used some on the patch pockets, the welt pockets, the inner front and the top collar. The under collar had mohair for stiffness and shaping. Check the third pic down here. I should have taken more pics, I guess, but...hey.sewing. In the guts link above, you can see I pad stitched mine, but had to do it ye olde way by hand. Machine pad stitch? Jealous!
I think I bought 6 m of wool originally. I didn't need it.... OR SO I THOUGHT. I decided the coat wasn't long enough and re-cut the back skirt. STILL had plenty. Oh and of course I mucked up the armscythe on the sleeves in SPITE of having made a test coat. So those got re-cut as well. And one path pocket ended up with the pattern of the houndstooth going the wrong way so that got recut. I am embarrassed to say there wasn't a meter of wool left by the end.
Oh and the back stay is just some light tight weave cotton broadcloth, nothing fancy.
**edit - Oh wait, just forgot - my journal is marked as adult content, not for the coat stuff unless you count swearing. But you probably have already seen that.
Last edited by jessamygriffin; Jun 24, 2012 at 7:54 AM.
Tried making a pleat and belt on the back of a black wool coat i have, worked out fairly well, although the middle vent of the coat made the seam look a bit weird. I'll try posting some pictures later.
Have found some options for fabric I'd like your opinion on. I've taken these pictures both with and without flash so you can get a good sense of their real color. While option A is a bit more hounds-toothy than I'd ideally prefer, it's definitely the closest I've been able to find on my own.
Options A, B, and C, without flash:
With flash:
Options D, E, and F, without flash:
With flash:
Hmm, none of them really work for me, too grey/brown. A looks a LOT like the one from A Study in Coat, Although, if anything i'd say D or C, although they're quite inaccurate too.
Unfortunately since we're working off of pictures.... there's not a lick of brown in person... the flash turned on a lot of yellows, which just aren't true when I see them here... but did show the weft/weave a bit better so I shared them.
They are on a white sheet of paper, so you can definitely see the yellow tint that got added there.
I just ordered 8 metres of cosplaysky wool myself.
I wish I could get mine as well, I want to feel the stuff and see how it is. Any chance I could pay you postage for a small swatch of the stuff when you get it?
Btw, buttons are going to be happening sooner than expected. Thanks to another forum member with some great solidworks skills, we'll have a printable 3D button soon. The pictures he's sent me look great, flawless even. I'm going to order one through Shapeways, then mold and cast.
That should be fine. I doubt I'll need all 8 metres anyway.
I hope it's like what misswolverine's looks like, because I found a blog with what I believe looks quite like the photos cosplaysky advertises -
Rickman101's deviantART Gallery
You can see it's different. The pattern in the wool is smaller and less sherlock like. Ah well, it's cheap and I'm tired of searching.
Is her coat supposedly the same one? Because that's a completely different fabric altogether.
Well, I don't know for sure whether that blog coat is cosplaysky, but like I said it looks more like their advertisements. Maybe they've changed the wool since then, who knows. I'm about to find out. :P
When I originally asked them how much they charged for the fabric they sent me pictures, nothing that showed scale, but it was definitely the first fabric, not this other stuff that looks nothing like the Belstaff.
Hmm...
This could be an expensive exercise. I didn't think to ask for a swatch.
Maybe they'll do refunds. :P
Here's another blog I found with someone who's coat appears to be cosplaysky. This one is much more pleasing, again like misswolverine's.
So, I won't panic just yet.
http://songofages.tumblr.com/search/cosplay
Didn't cosplaysky have a linen version? Could that be what the other one was?
1. That last photoset was horrifying. I mean it looked awesome, but that's absolutely terrible. hahahaha REICHENBACH FEELS ARE STILL GOING ON OVER HERE
[not that I don't jump off anything tall I can climb up to tease my friends when I'm wearing my coat, but...]
2. The pics from the girl with the powder blue scarf look like the linen version of cosplay sky. So I wouldn't worry?
Still researching fabric. I have a few swatches coming in... but this one is looking great. Now if only I could get a swatch. Here's the problem:
Does anyone speak Chinese? The only numbers on this site go to China... there's no email address. I even tried to call and as far as I can tell they do not speak English.
Black Twill Melton of Wool Blend Fabric(50%wool/50%polyester) from Zhangjiagang City Hong Yao Woolen Factory - Bizrice.com
I wouldn't recommend that fabric, it's going to be completely different from the real stuff. Also polyester, eww.
Why dp ypu say that? B/c of the fabric mix? I can't get a great look at it from the small image, but the pattern is promising.Risu said:
Oh, the picture linked to your post isn't the stuff in your link. It looks like it could work. I'd still try to avoid polyester if possible, but it could have the look.
The linen version of the cosplaysky coat actually looks different again.
http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m4...b0ko1_1280.jpg
For my money the fabric Neroon15 posted (post 126 & 128), and said to be a good match by Ray, is still what I'm leaning toward going with. Even after seeing all these options. It almost looks a little flat texture wise, but I think the pattern is quite good.
Just fyi, I ordered 3 swatches from across the web and dropped in to my favorite fabric store today with reference photos. They had a tweed that was more grey than black (but a good match) and are going to order in some wool swatches for me by Monday. If they come empty on this I'll be surprised; they are the ones that sourced the purple spandex for my 66 Batgirl.
Just thought i'd write up the measurements given by RayR, if RayR wants me to take these pictures down, i'll happily do so. Although i don't see any problem in sharing them. In case you didn't guess it, all measurements are in inches.
EDIT: Blimey, this takes up more space than i thought, should i just link them instead?
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