robo3687's Iron Man Pep Files - SD War Machine links page 73

Hey! I'm new here and new at pepping and I have a few questions, mostly about hardening/strengthening the armor and hopefully they're not too noob-y haha and sorry this might be kinda lengthy too. First I would like to say thank you so much to Robo, Sharkhead, and any others who have collaborated on this! Okay though, I've already pepped the helmet, chest, back, abs/lower back, biceps, forearms, handplates, and codpiece, and with only a few parts remaining to be pepped, I've started thinking about the near future, so here goes:

1. What is the purpose of the brace (like the chest brace thing?) is it something I really should build?

2. I used 110 lbs cardstock paper and superglue; if I would like to strengthen/harden it and skip the bondo process, (yes, I know it won't be smooth but I just wanna skip this step) what would be the best thing to use to strengthen/harden it? I've heard the names Smoothcast 300 Series and EpoxAmite, and of course the fiberglass, and I'd be fine with using fiberglass mats/tissue but I was sorta looking for maybe an alternative resin substance thing? I'll use fiberglass if I have to though, I just want the suit to be hard, strong, and sturdy, and not real flexible when I'm done with it

3. Even though I used 110 cardstock, some of my peices (mostly like the chest and back peices) are kinda floppy at times; they keep their shape and were pepped very well (sorry I'm bragging but just wanted to make sure ya'll didn't think I did a crappy job) but don't always stay in the right position (like when I set the chest down on a table or something it gets more spread out) how would I make it stay in one position while strengthening/hardening the peice? I don't wanna have a weird looking chest or back peice...Hopefully I made this question clear enough haha

4. I pepped Sharkhead's helmet (the awesome one with the teeth and stuff) and I'd like for the faceplate to be a seperate peice (that's what it's designed to do after all) but how should I strengthen/harden the helmet? my faceplate is sorta warp-y and doesn't fit onto the rest of the helmet by itself, but when I tape it to the helmet it's perfect-looking; I worry if I harden/strengthen the faceplate by itself and the rest of the helmet by itself, it won't look right or fit together right anymore, so I wondered if I should strengthen/harden the helmet with the faceplate taped on? If I did that, I'd probably have to cut the faceplate out after it's hardened, right? But what tool would I use to cut it?

5. I've seen on this thread something about resining or hardening or whatever one part of the helmet at a time? Does this refer to the actual parts it was made to seperate in (faceplate, jaw, etc.) or just refer to not doing the whole thing at once?

6. And finally, are there any other armor peices that it would be preferable to harden while attached to each other (like should the chest be connected to the back when I harden it, or should the lower circular part of the forearm be connected to the upper bulkier part of the forearm? Are there any other peices that should be attached to each other while hardening?

Thank you so much in advance!

Hey there, welcome to the amazing world of prop and costumes making; I have been working on my armor or a couple of months now and here is what so far I have learned.

1. What is the purpose of the brace (like the chest brace thing?) is it something I really should build?
I thin the brace is used to keep the torso (chest/back) in place and be more stable.
2. I used 110 lbs cardstock paper and superglue; if I would like to strengthen/harden it and skip the bondo process, (yes, I know it won't be smooth but I just wanna skip this step) what would be the best thing to use to strengthen/harden it? I've heard the names Smoothcast 300 Series and EpoxAmite, and of course the fiberglass, and I'd be fine with using fiberglass mats/tissue but I was sorta looking for maybe an alternative resin substance thing? I'll use fiberglass if I have to though, I just want the suit to be hard, strong, and sturdy, and not real flexible when I'm done with it

This one; a pro needs to answer, have you think about using rondo (Resin/bondo) you can use is like paint since is very liquid, use a good brush that won't leave a lot of marks and a light sand, presto that may work.

3. Even though I used 110 cardstock, some of my peices (mostly like the chest and back peices) are kinda floppy at times; they keep their shape and were pepped very well (sorry I'm bragging but just wanted to make sure ya'll didn't think I did a crappy job) but don't always stay in the right position (like when I set the chest down on a table or something it gets more spread out) how would I make it stay in one position while strengthening/hardening the peice? I don't wanna have a weird looking chest or back peice...Hopefully I made this question clear enough haha

You can use some craft sticks to give the parts some support; take a look at my build and you will see what I mean

http://www.therpf.com/f24/my-hd-war-...27/index4.html

4. I pepped Sharkhead's helmet (the awesome one with the teeth and stuff) and I'd like for the faceplate to be a seperate peice (that's what it's designed to do after all) but how should I strengthen/harden the helmet? my faceplate is sorta warp-y and doesn't fit onto the rest of the helmet by itself, but when I tape it to the helmet it's perfect-looking; I worry if I harden/strengthen the faceplate by itself and the rest of the helmet by itself, it won't look right or fit together right anymore, so I wondered if I should strengthen/harden the helmet with the faceplate taped on? If I did that, I'd probably have to cut the faceplate out after it's hardened, right? But what tool would I use to cut it?


A dremel with a hand piece extension that way you can handle it better; here is a link to that

Flex-Shaft Attachment-225-01 at The Home Depot

Last two questions I will leave it to the pro's here...Good luck and post tons of pictures when you start.


5. I've seen on this thread something about resining or hardening or whatever one part of the helmet at a time? Does this refer to the actual parts it was made to seperate in (faceplate, jaw, etc.) or just refer to not doing the whole thing at once?

6. And finally, are there any other armor peices that it would be preferable to harden while attached to each other (like should the chest be connected to the back when I harden it, or should the lower circular part of the forearm be connected to the upper bulkier part of the forearm? Are there any other peices that should be attached to each other while hardening?

Thank you so much in advance![/QUOTE]

so i need some advice?.. I recently downloaded the iron man files and when i attempted to print i only got the edge id numbers but no lines i checked settings > other settings > line style to ensure i had the proper lines selected but again i only printed the edge ids and this is for all the iron man file from robo any ideas or advice

aronxiceman said:

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so i need some advice?.. I recently downloaded the iron man files and when i attempted to print i only got the edge id numbers but no lines i checked settings > other settings > line style to ensure i had the proper lines selected but again i only printed the edge ids and this is for all the iron man file from robo any ideas or advice

First make sure your cut lines are solid under settings> other settings> line style. Under settings> print and paper settings> I have Lineweight at 3, selected vector print and the bitmap resolution is high and the transparency is set around 50%

Hope that helps

Governor said:

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First make sure your cut lines are solid under settings> other settings> line style. Under settings> print and paper settings> I have Lineweight at 3, selected vector print and the bitmap resolution is high and the transparency is set around 50%

Hope that helps

I needed to select vector print thanks for the help.

aronxiceman said:

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so i need some advice?.. I recently downloaded the iron man files and when i attempted to print i only got the edge id numbers but no lines i checked settings > other settings > line style to ensure i had the proper lines selected but again i only printed the edge ids and this is for all the iron man file from robo any ideas or advice

This is how I have mine setup:
http://www.therpf.com/f24/robo3687s-...ml#post2379524

Doing an awesome job matey

well i know this isn't iron man but i need to know how to create a domino mask

^

The eyes wont really hurt too much if you cut them out. It's moreso for if you want to vacform the parts right away I think. I could be wrong.

Hello to all guys, I follow a long time your forum and I congratulate you on your work, I'm just starting out with the armor of ironman, but I have difficulty in obtaining the pdo file in A4 format.
I wanted to ask if you could post these files. my height is 174 cm. For now I am only able to get the helmet in A4 format.
I apologize for my English is very poor, but I hope it is enough to understand.
Respond quote so that I have no difficulty in finding the answer.
Thanks and greetings from Sardinia.

Brethren! I'm getting baffled by assembling different parts together. :/
Any advice?

Wow that's impressive

Robo first i have to thank you for your monstruous work on this files! ;-)

How do you mount the Neck Seal without the tabs?
Do you have other neck seal file without tabs that you could share with us?

Robo, I know you get this more times than you can count, but Thanks.

I'm starting a foam/resin reinforced speed-build Mark V/VII combo that I can hopefully get done by Halloween.

Your files are WAY easier to use than some of the others out there. I tried doing the Mark VII, but each piece was taking way too long, and I just got burned out, and ultimately had to put it on hold.

Nearing completion of my suit; in a hurry to get it done before Halloween. I smoothcasted/fiberglassed the whole thing and painted it and it's looking pretty good. I'm starting to put it together now, though, and I have a question:

-How is everyone connecting the thighs and shins together? Because I was thinking like screws or rivets (what I've heard most people use on the arms) but it doesn't work for the legs because the round parts don't overlap; the bottom sides of the thigh simply fit over the discs coming from the shin, so there's nowhere to put a screw or rivet.


And by the way, if anyone doesn't want to go through the trouble of making the hands (not that robo's gloves aren't amazing because they are), a cool alternative is lacrosse gloves (after being spraypainted of course)

But anyway, any help on the leg issue would be much appreciated! Like very much appreciated, becuase I'm really trying to hurry to get this done so I can wear it on Halloween.

Hey all just joined as I am planning my own build problem I have is I'm stuck without a PCM at the moment so was just wondering if anyone can email me the template for the helmet? Preferably the opening type as I say very new to this and this will be my first ever build of anything like this any help is much appreciated

Hi Guys!

I want to try to build an Iron Man Suit for an upcoming Convention. I am 6'4" tall, how do I scale the files?

Regards

Hi all,

I'm currently using robo3687s files to build my first Iron Man armor, I'm 5' 10" and around 160 pounds and have scaled the pieces I've made so far to 24.7

However some parts have versions unfolded by jason02 and balmung, but are different sizes (25.411754 and 24.59 respectively). Should I be keeping a scale of 24.7 for all pieces? I chose 24.7 as this is the same ratio of 25.411754 as 5ft10 is to 6ft (97.222222%). However not sure if I should be scaling the balmung's pieces by 97.222222% too (this would get 23.9) - or just keep scale any piece I use to 24.7. Hope someone can help!

Thanks!

what program do u use to open the downloads

iko said:

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Hi all,

I'm currently using robo3687s files to build my first Iron Man armor, I'm 5' 10" and around 160 pounds and have scaled the pieces I've made so far to 24.7

However some parts have versions unfolded by jason02 and balmung, but are different sizes (25.411754 and 24.59 respectively). Should I be keeping a scale of 24.7 for all pieces? I chose 24.7 as this is the same ratio of 25.411754 as 5ft10 is to 6ft (97.222222%). However not sure if I should be scaling the balmung's pieces by 97.222222% too (this would get 23.9) - or just keep scale any piece I use to 24.7. Hope someone can help!

Thanks!

Yes the scale has to do with the original model not how it was unfolded so if you print one part unfolded by joe schmo and the same part unfolded by jane doe at the same scale then they will be the same size.

shortyboy00 said:

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what program do u use to open the downloads

If you are talking about the compressed file... I use WinRAR. If you are talking about the PDO files, you have to use Pepakura Viewer or Pepakura Designer.

darkside501st said:

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Yes the scale has to do with the original model not how it was unfolded so if you print one part unfolded by joe schmo and the same part unfolded by jane doe at the same scale then they will be the same size.

Thanks for the reply mate. Although I'm still a little confused - as some of the files in robo3687s zipped archive are scaled at 25.411754 and some at 23.59 (unfolded by two different people). I've read on a number of different posts that robo's files are for a 6ft tall person - but which of these does that apply to? When there's two versions of the same piece of armor (e.g. two codpiece unfolds) - I don't know which one to scale. Technically, if someone was 6ft tall and thought they didn't need to scale but used a mix and match method of these files (unfolds by different people) - the pieces wouldn't all fit together as they're scaled differently?

I would just try pieces on but my glue gun and glue sticks won't arrive until next week so can only cut at the mo

iko said:

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Thanks for the reply mate. Although I'm still a little confused - as some of the files in robo3687s zipped archive are scaled at 25.411754 and some at 23.59 (unfolded by two different people). I've read on a number of different posts that robo's files are for a 6ft tall person - but which of these does that apply to? When there's two versions of the same piece of armor (e.g. two codpiece unfolds) - I don't know which one to scale. Technically, if someone was 6ft tall and thought they didn't need to scale but used a mix and match method of these files (unfolds by different people) - the pieces wouldn't all fit together as they're scaled differently?

I would just try pieces on but my glue gun and glue sticks won't arrive until next week so can only cut at the mo

You are correct, if the files are that far off in scale they will not fit together. If you are 6ft tall and want to use one of the files that are scaled to 23 then just rescale it to match the others. You can also see the final measurement for each part and you can use the measurement tool to compare one part to another or to check to make sure it will fit you.

Sorry the files are 25.411754 and 24.59 (not 23.59) - so not tooo far off. Either way I'm trying to keep the same scale throughout - but just found out how to measure the length from one point to another on an armor piece - which is helpful as I think I might be forced to change the scale for my limbs.

Thanks for your help dude!

hey hello robo3687 do u have updated the files for the elbow ? i downloaded them and the elbow was missing , thnx