it looks like you're using regular paper instead of cardstock. either that or it was left out in the rain. :P switch to cardstock man, its much better.
it looks like you're using regular paper instead of cardstock. either that or it was left out in the rain. :P switch to cardstock man, its much better.
regular paper cant support the weight of the folds once u slap it together - tried it with a helm once and it started to cave almost instantly
Has anyone on here working with Smooth cast? If so would your recommend it on the inside in place of fiberglass or on the outside instead of resin?
Seen a few videos of someone using it on top and seemed really messy do to the harding of every brush he used so he began pouring on the outside.
Anyways.... Any assistance is appreaciated!
Thanks!!!!
Hi guys! I was looking around the forum and I found Finhead's now-dead IM project. I read something about him putting a servo in the chin area, but he must have removed the pics and video from Flickr. Does anyone happen to know more about that setup?
use Smooth-On EpoxAmite instead.Spiderkiller11 said:
Has anyone on here working with Smooth cast? If so would your recommend it on the inside in place of fiberglass or on the outside instead of resin?
Seen a few videos of someone using it on top and seemed really messy do to the harding of every brush he used so he began pouring on the outside.
Anyways.... Any assistance is appreaciated!
Thanks!!!!
brimst0ne13 said:
Yeah I Used Paper.. was just a test =)
VersionUp said:
Cool. Appreciate it!
VersionUp would you suggest sticking with resining the outside and interior with Smooth-On? Or is it pretty manageable to work on exterior materials?
Thanks for the advice!
Im kinda confused with the question, but EpoxAmite have a good tensile strength so you can use it by itself. So with the polyester body filler, you should have a solid armor.Spiderkiller11 said:
I went away from using EpoxAmite to using a combo of Vinyl Esther resin/ surface veil just because of cost.
i should get a Kevlar kit and cover up my armor in that lol
LIGHTWEIGHT AND BULLET PROOF!!! FTW!!!
..well, bullet resistant.. to a point.
and heavy. Dyneema is a better material than kevlar as far as ballistic resistance goes.. Probably more expensive though. haha
One of my friends works with numerous HAAS CNC and Waterjet Machines. He asked me if I'm interested in having a "real" IronMan suit. I said yes, but I'd probably have to sell my house.Bimmer said:
It's actually Lightwave 5.6, circa the year 2000 or so. Back in the mid/late 90's, a couple of friends and I had a small business doing animations for local TV commercials and such. I kept the software license updated for a while, but as the business petered out (the TV stations finally realized they could do the stuff in-house a lot cheaper) I just got tired of paying out for something that wasn't generating any return anymore. So here we are 10 years later, and that old workhorse of a program is still happily chugging along. I haven't seen the need to blow money on a new package that I'll only be using for casual hobby stuff.Azurial said:
That was probably way more information than you needed, now that I look it over, but since I already typed it out...
hey guys just popping in to give a small update on the status of the republic/imperial commando armour.......text only though..lol
haven't had much of a chance to work on it lately as i've had a shocking cold and haven't been near a computer all that much....and when i have been I've been working on other things....
i'll be doing some concepts of what i want to do in the next couple of days so i'll try and have something for you to see sometime this week....
you need orange juice robo! vitamin C!
seriously tho, hope you feel better - sounds good, i'll b waiting
VersionUp said:
Sorry. What I meant was the exterior of the armor can be coated with epoxamite as well as the underside part. Or if basic resign coated the outer part and epoxamite in the underside.
As long as its strong im sure i can work with it.
Thanks for the help!
I'm a bit behind schedule, but I just finished getting the fibreglass cloth prepped to be resined for my suit.
After my experience doing the helmet with the cloth, I figured I'd hot glue the cloth on the rest. Too much of a pain doing it loose (and me getting covered in resin lol).
I'll be spending the rest of the day today up to my arms in resin, so I'm aiming at Tuesday to start the body filler. That will give everything a good couple days to harden up nicely. (I'm busy the next two days anyways).
@MightyJohn you should upload more pics of your progress!!
its okayPilot said:
It's actually Lightwave 5.6, circa the year 2000 or so. Back in the mid/late 90's, a couple of friends and I had a small business doing animations for local TV commercials and such. I kept the software license updated for a while, but as the business petered out (the TV stations finally realized they could do the stuff in-house a lot cheaper) I just got tired of paying out for something that wasn't generating any return anymore. So here we are 10 years later, and that old workhorse of a program is still happily chugging along. I haven't seen the need to blow money on a new package that I'll only be using for casual hobby stuff.
That was probably way more information than you needed, now that I look it over, but since I already typed it out...
@robo - get well soon man
pareng qoudavis and ironmaided: are you guys using the samuray/dungbeetle helmets?ironmaided said:
well on my case im only 5'4" and i reduce the printing by 17%....
so i will get a smaller print size...but i didn't change the original scale....
it is perfectly fitted my size
Thank you for the tips & tricks :-))
Good work!
It's been a busy few weeks (weddings, reuninons, etc..). I've made a little progress. Also, the Chest and Back have put me in a depressive statetonyalarkon said:
But, I'm almost finished with the chest (Finally). The Back still needs alot of work, thou. The neck is finished (still gonna need to mold it or something). Left shoulder bell is finished and right shoulder is getting final paint. The front plates of the abs are in the smoothing process with the rest of the ab sections are in Pep.
I'll post some pics later this week. Once I detail paint the chest.
I've been reading the posts, just haven't logged on in awhile. Sorry to those that sent messages (I didn't realize), I'll respond soon.
I'm glad to hear my helmet woes with resining arent just mine alone. I cut the cloth into strips and did the inside of the bucket.I too was covered in resin after messing with it. I like your hot glue idea I may try that on the next piece.Stryken said:
it's sharkhead....gaiatron said:
i'm planning to pep another 3 helmets for my future projects...mark 2, mark 3 and mark 5 after i finish my warmachine this month....
just wondering... what problems are you guys having with the resin for you to create a mess? are you guys having problems with your pot life, and you have the need to work fast?
I needed a 3rd hand when I was doing the helmet. Trying to hold the helmet with one hand, the brush in the other, and nothing keeping the cloth from moving out of place was the big pain.
I will say doing the rest of the pieces was easier, after securing the cloth first. Less resin stuck on my arm hair too lol.
I had used newspaper to cover my workspace, and had used it for leaving some parts to dry on (easy enough to grind away any newpaper that sticks).
I had a thought, which I wish had occurred to me a lot earlier. Use wax paper. The parts lifted off so nicely. So thats my big recommendation if you are leaving anything to dry that isn't being hung up.
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