Try cutting the part into smaller parts in pep designer or set margins to 5mm and print with alignment marks on. If it asks you if you want to change the scale because the parts overlap pages, just click "no".CankleBreaker said:
Try cutting the part into smaller parts in pep designer or set margins to 5mm and print with alignment marks on. If it asks you if you want to change the scale because the parts overlap pages, just click "no".CankleBreaker said:
Thanks, i'll give that a try.
Oh and can you help me with scaling? How do I calculate the scale factor for an Optimus Prime helmet? I've tried to use the tutorials but to no avail. I printed out the original file and pepped it but its too small. The original settings are as follows:
H:325
W:280
D:284
Edit: I figured out how to join/disjoin faces to print larger shapes, but now just need help with scaling!
Last edited by CankleBreaker; Jun 28, 2012 at 2:21 PM.
Couple last questions, after changing the settings from A4 to letter and paper orientation from "portrait" to "landscape", when i'm going to print, it asks if I should adjust the paper size, should I put yes or no? And why do we use "landscape" orientation as opposed to "portrait"?
Last edited by CankleBreaker; Jun 28, 2012 at 3:23 PM.
Does anyone have the Crysis Nanosuit or helmet pep file thaI could have?
i have the 3d file and will start working on it after i finished all the iron man projectsfivenerds said:
I have seen some great pep work in this site. I also have found dead end links ( to Megaupload). I would be very interested in your progress with your effort.EyeofSauron said:
CankleBreaker said:
Thanks, i'll give that a try.
Oh and can you help me with scaling? How do I calculate the scale factor for an Optimus Prime helmet? I've tried to use the tutorials but to no avail. I printed out the original file and pepped it but its too small. The original settings are as follows:
H:325
W:280
D:284
Edit: I figured out how to join/disjoin faces to print larger shapes, but now just need help with scaling!
Pepakura does it 1:1 scale. So if you make the height bigger, the width will be proportionate.
325 mm is 12.8 inches . Is it small in the width or in the height?
I always do a test build on cheap 20lb paper so I can gauge size.
Up the height to 14 or 15 inches ( 355.6 mm or 381 mm)
Thanks for the info, I scaled it up 10% which brings it to about 357mm, i'll use that as a test build and go from there. I just thought there'd be some sort of specific formula to calculate it without trial and error.
No real specific formula. You just measure the area that you are making the part for, and input the equivalent mm measurement into Pepakura. Add in enough for padding and hardening that you will do.CankleBreaker said:
Hi,
Does anyone have a copy of the yellow rangers helmet unfolded? I've looked all over the net and can only find the 3d model.
thanks
I am having trouble finding somewere to download files from. Everything I try to download seems to be a scam. Were is a good place to download them from?
BTW I am looking for helmets. Skyrim, 300, Medievel, pretty much any kind of helmet will do.
I am very new to this and am having quite a bit of trouble on finding were to start. I have downloaded the free PEPdesigner. But that is the about the only thing I have downloaded that hasnt tried to install a bunch of crap onto my computer.
there are a lot of places to get files. saddly people dont want to have a spot for all of them.
i can't believe that no one has posted to help you yet. i am disappointed in this forum.
so you have the free viewer, designer costs money.
ummm, im trying to think of somewhere that has medieval helmets. i do know that someone on either here or 405th does have the 300 helmet and the litch king. as for anything else... idk.
have you thought about just going to a costume shop and buying something? some things are just better bought then built.
Or maybe we just didn't have anything that would have helped him out.Grave said:
Sadly there is no major repository of Pep files to my knowledge, nor is there a pep file for everything you can imagine.
Here are the sites I do know of:
The Printable Armory (Free some Star Wars, Power Rangers and other items)
http://www.therpf.com/f13/fierfeks-p...-files-149477/ (Premium files put out by Firefek...he also has free models on the site if you use the search function)
Propzone (Free and paid files including some Skyrim models)
There are more out there, just use the search feature here on the RPF and your bound to find them.
Good luck.
-Nick
I did read through the PEP sticky and found the sites posted in there. Ireally appreciate the help. I kind of feel like my first day at school and not knowing were any of my classes are at lol I do wish there was a site were everyone put all there designs up just to make it easy.
I hate forum software that just loses posts and you can't reacquire them. They're just gone. What? You spent an hour writing a long post? It's gone. You'll have to start over. but how often does it happen? How often am I writing a post that long? Obviously not often enough for me to remember to make a copy every time. I mean, why would I need to do that? (I was posting a quick reply in a thread that got merged/moved. There's nothing to go back to.)
Are there any guides on unfolding? I tried to do a web search and YouTube search and couldn't find anything so far. Too much useless/outdated/too-specific stuff.
I had my own ideas, but I don't actually know.
Like for accuracy, is it easier to get the final result wrong if you're gluing short edges or long edges? Long edges might actually give more accurate angles than short edges, although long edges might be easier to bend and get inaccurate that way. Harder paper invalidates one of those drawbacks making gluing longer edges superior? It also takes more time to glue longer edges than shorter edges. Is it then just time VS accuracy? That's a pretty old guideline.
I'm also wondering if for best accuracy you should edit the 3D model so that some of the general shapes have blank (non-surface) cross-sections on the connecting edges (and on the other shape it's getting glued to. Glue the two blank faces together.) with tabs that fit inside the shape to keep them from deforming in any way. eg: a weapon handle.
I've just realized that many papercraft models are closed shapes. I suppose that means that those are difficult to reinforce with other materials. With closed shapes you want to reinforce, do you make them in two or more parts and reinforce them before sticking them together? Gee, how do you make sure they align properly?
If you're not smoothing your model (bondo & sanding) then you can use the original texture, printed on your model. If you're doing that, you might have your tabs showing some times. At least in Pepakura there's an option to color the tabs a similar color to the attached side, so maybe that's enough to ignore any problems of which sides would look best as folds VS glued.
https://www.google.com/search?q=pepa...ient=firefox-a
First link was to a video explaining exactly how to unfold in Pepakura.
Pepakura Unfolding Tutorial Part 1 - YouTube
If you think 3 hours is a long time to wait for a response on a free internet message board, you've got a TON of disappointment to look forward to in life.Grave said:
Well I must have used different search terms than you, and I was unlucky. It shouldn't be that way, but it is.tk1055 said:
Hm. A little hard for someone new to follow when it's sped-up.
Why does he use this method? Is it the only good method, or is there more than one? My model isn't as clean with the edges as his. I'm not sure how I can copy it.
Im concerned that people have said they have googled and not found anything ???
Let me google that for you < Please click this to ensure you actually searched xD ACTUALY CLICK THE LINKS AND READ THEM.
But seriously, you should try making something from pep, then you will understand what works well on an unfold and what doesnt.
Really, no one wants to be giving the information out when it exists, honestly it feels a bit like :
"Everything served on a plate please!"
To solve that problem, you assemble the whole thing, paint resin on the outside (small portions at a time to avoid sagging), then pop a hole in it and fill with foamChaotic Descent said:
Ah. Although I remember hearing that you had to use a specific kind of foam that doesn't expand after it sets. (because even though it's reinforced on the outside, I guess it can still deform slightly with the right amount of pressure.)elro said:
To solve that problem, you assemble the whole thing, paint resin on the outside (small portions at a time to avoid sagging), then pop a hole in it and fill with foam
"red and blue" or something??
>TL;DR: RTFMelro said:
What do any of us need this forum for then? Just to show off?
Search engines are not good teachers, and I know this from experience. The rest of the internet is not as great as wikipedia. The internet in general sucks.
Education requires context (says Noam Chomsky). I wouldn't be that absolute about it. I'd frame it in terms of efficiency. Humans know a lot of things, and having each one of us learn them by trial and error is inefficient. Most of us will not end up in the same ideal place by the time we die.
If a community around a hobby can't provide comprehensive material for people to start out, either create it, or expect lots of "stupid questions" from people who have no idea what's going on. After people "start" by slogging through the mud, they reach a point where "they (think they) know", at which point the problem seems to be gone. (although that depends how you define the problem. If self-assurance is the problem, we could skip education and just gain the faith that we know from the start.)
The fact is, the internet is full of a lot of different people, and not all of them (including adults) are ideal autodidacts, so don't treat them that way.
Ohhhh, internet. One of these days... One of these days. *shakes fist angrily*
'RTFM' - There is no need for that attitude around here,Chaotic Descent said:
and you've missed the point entirely.
- All the information people need to know exists already, and the purpose of people having to rewrite what is already there is quite pointless. Seriously, all we can write is exactly the same as what has been written elsewhere (google search).
- This forum is mostly a great place to show what progress you've made, and receive advice where to head. If there is nothing to show, and only a one way communication, the system fails.
-If a community around a hobby can't provide comprehensive material for people to start out, either create it, or expect lots of "stupid questions" from people who have no idea what's going on. = = = This thread has recapped the same thing MULTIPLE times (Search feature up top
- Search engines are not good teachers, and I know this from experience. = Thats why reading was made. Of course asking a search engine a question wont answer it, you have to click links, go to the page, and start reading.
I've been following the tutorials Stealth put up. This weekend I went to pick up the Smooth Cast 321 he recommends. Unfortunately, I spent almost the entire weekend failing to find a store anywhere in LA or OC that carried it. I finally found the small kit of Smooth Cast 300 with a 7 minute pot life. Apparently Cali passed a law which bans the 320 series and many chemicals quantity of 1 gallon or more; which includes turpentine and urethane.
Anyone have alternatives?
89Forever said:
Unfortunately, most of these places cater to the Hollywood crowd, so they are only open during the week (no weekends)
this is where I get it locally (in L.A.):
Smooth-Cast 300 Series Bright White Liquid Plastic | Reynolds Advanced Materials | Everything for Mold Making & Casting
the guys there are helpful. don't ask them about how much to buy, but you can ask them on what kind of product you should buy based on the project you are doing.
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