Im trying to make a full model of Robo's markVI. Stealths version anyways.
http://www.therpf.com/f24/robo3687-i...pakura-128147/
I will be making it out of cardstock, because i cant seem to find any foam
Im 18 years old and i'm 5'4.
Im quite short
So how would I measure it?
Im new to pepakura, so im not that great in finding depth and that stuff.
Im sorry for asking, ive searched all over google, but no luck.
Thanks in advance
HaloGoddess' "How To Scale" and More TutorialMimicry said:
Im trying to make a full model of Robo's markVI. Stealths version anyways.
http://www.therpf.com/f24/robo3687-i...pakura-128147/
I will be making it out of cardstock, because i cant seem to find any foam
Im 18 years old and i'm 5'4.
Im quite short
So how would I measure it?
Im new to pepakura, so im not that great in finding depth and that stuff.
Im sorry for asking, ive searched all over google, but no luck.
Thanks in advance
Thats the best tut that I can find right now
Hello folks !
I always impressed with other friends works. I influenced by you guys' amazing works.
2 days ago i started with my Iron man helmet project from pepakura. I'm using SharkmanVI helmet modified by Dubean33. But I have problem on eye part. At the right side of eye. I cant lower 783 at the inner eye since another triangle holds it behind 858. So, the thing is, i cannot continue from this part. I can't find the problem either. That 7-8 part makes the line gap for 1129-5 even more bigger. I seriously need some advise from you experts..
http://i1079.photobucket.com/albums/...0/dSDFASDF.jpg
Looks to me like you're missing a piece
So, I know you've gotten a lot of discussion on this already, but as a long-time cosplayer, I do have some suggestions. These guys on RPF and 405th tend to be trying to make something that will last a while. Keep in mind, I haven't done any armour building myself, but I HAVE seen the different methods in person with my own eyes at conventions.thepman1 said:
A possibly cheaper, though less durable, method is to use craft foam for the basic shape (it's much cheaper and lighter than the antifatigue stuff), then coat with cheese cloth using a mixture of glue and water. You can also paper mache it to seal, sand just like as if you were using bondo, then paint with spray and/or acrylics. It's much more cost effective, however, you probably won't get the sleek realistic Iron Man look, and it may only last you a few times wearing it. But white glue is cheap, paper mache only requires that you steal your neighbours' newspapers, and regular spray paint and acrylic is cheaper than the car paint most people here suggest.
Just my 2 cents. If you want to know more about the cheaper non-fibreglass method, check out Amethyst Angel's website (for the Fibreglass Phobic) Armormaking for the Fiberglass Phobic and this famous tutorial Craft Foam Armor Tutorial
Really dumb question - what happens when you print a single, continuous piece that stretches over multiple pages? Are the joins "tabbed?" What's the best way to join them back together?
dont do itDave Ward said:
if you print a piece that is stretched over more pages, the printer will not print anything outside of the print borders, which will leave you with a blank spot on the edges of the pages
Huh...How do you print larger pieces then?
either you print them on bigger paper, for example a3 or in a copyshop up to a0, or thebetter alternative: split it up in smaller pieces.Dave Ward said:
Huh...How do you print larger pieces then?
OK, so google tells me that I use the Zipper tool to do this - I'm assuming this creates tabs?EyeofSauron said:
Also, let me take a breath and say a huge thank you to everyone who's offering advice in this thread. This is a fantastic repository of knowlege, and speaking with someone who is hopeless building in wood, this has really opened up some serious horizons for me.
Just to keep all my dumb noob questions archived for posterity in the same place - a couple more!
I had problems using "krazy glue gel" and an off-brand superglue. The paper was glossy, do I need to use matt/textured paper, or is it the glue?
Respirator - I've been looking on amazon and there are a lot around the $20 price point. Will these be sufficient when fibreglassing, or do I want to play it safe and go higher-end?
I don't like the Krazy glue brand glue. My best results have come from Loctite super glue. The brush in bottle type is my absolute favorite because it makes less mess while working. You can find it in the office supplies section of Walmart.Dave Ward said:
Glossy paper is also a NO-NO. Good standard 110lb heavy cardstock is what you want.
Can't find the zipper mode in the free version of pep, and the Kinkos I called to print larger sheets were useless, and can only go up to A3. At some point I want to take a shot at a Dalek, so I'm going to have to get the hang on printing large pieces!
I did a test on paper of printing out single pieces that print across multiple pages. There is that gap between lines where the object hits the margin, so it will take extra work to join them back up, but at least no "information" is lost.
Hi everyone a good friend of mine who loves Atomic Robo has asked me if I know anyone with Atomic Robo pepakura files, anyone able to help with this?
HI all,
im new here and new to pep. just started my ironman mark III helmet. going good so far hit a couple walls on the eyes hopefully i can make it they way i want in the bondo stage. im addicted to this just cant stop was up all weekend cutting out the parts was so excited when i could start assembly. if all goes well im going to do the entire suit. so heres my progress so far please feel free to comment and let me know what i can do to do even better.
Hey everyone,
Is there anyone who knows how to and would be willing to create a .obj file for me fro a 3-d model. If not that is not how it is done could someone take a model and unfold it pepakura for me? I am trying to build the Glass Helmet from Skyrim.
I was wondering, is there any way to "pre treat" the card after cutting but before assembly? Not a full 321 coat, but just something to make it a little more solid? I'm worried that my K9 build might not quite hold it's weight/shape during construction.
I was watching Stealth's tutorials on pep assembly (great videos) and one of his pieces, an iron man shoe, looks very solid even before fibreglassing and the 321 treatment.
If you have large, unsupported flat areas (as with K9, I imagine) I find that being inventive with some sort of bracing goes a long way. Foam core board like you'd mount a poster on makes fantastic support material. It's cheap, strong, light, rigid, cuts easily, and can be adhered with just about any glue you like. I've used it to make everything from small corner braces to full-size backing sheets on large objects.
Alternatively, you could probably make the bulk of your K9 out of the foam board itself using the Pepakura pieces as a template.
Thanks, Rick - great advice. I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing a step as the 110lb cardstock feels a little less rigid than I'd expected. I think I'll reinforce a couple of the bigger pieces with core board on the inside just to make it less of a balancing act.
David
Anyone else hate bondo? Because I've worked with it before and I keep getting these "pot holes." Anyone have advise on reducing the pot holes?
Use something better than Bondo. Evercoat's Z-Grip is an inexpensive, HIGH quality body filler that doesn't get nearly as many bubbles as Bondo. It's also much nicer to sand.Chinosan said:
Another tip is to mix and get your bondo in place as quickly as possible so that it doesn't clump up. You want to stop spreading it BEFORE it starts to get gritty. I personally stop spreading the moment I notice the first stages of grit, then after a few minutes wait (usually a couple swigs of beer or whatever drink you have handy to keep hydrated) I switch to a body grating file (looks like a long skinny cheese grater) to cut down the high spots while it's still rubbery.
Chinosan said:
Usually the holes in the Bondo are caused by air pockets getting stuck in the bondo when stirring the mixture, to reduce the air bubbles try not to stir up the Bondo and hardner, look on Youtube there are some good tutorials how to mix the Bondo, you want to layer it on top of itself to avoid taking in to much air, as for fixing the little holes that are already in the Bondo after sanding, your best bet is to get some glazing putty also called spot putty filler, dab the stuff on any pin holes or imperfections in the Bondo, let it dry and sand it off with some fine (I use 320 Grit) sandpaper, it sands like sanding drywall spackle, so its easy to clean up, you can pick it up where they sell bondo, it comes it tubes and its orange when you spread it on piece your working on
How much of an area do you guys typically work with?
What is the standard scaling size in pepakura for armor. I believe it is somewhere around 1.####### or something like that. I have captured a model and unfolded it in pepakura but I guess its different for every model. I am just looking for a starting point before I start printing out all these pieces over and over.
just measure your equivalent body part, and then insert that value when manually unfolding
In terms of pinholes left by Bondo / Body filler etc, Im in the process of :
1. Glassing the pep
2. Applying 1 Layer of body filler
3. Sanding the filler back with a Palm Belt sander / Other sanders for smaller areas...
4. And, Instead of reapplying layer after layer of filler, Going ahead and layering Apoxie sculpt straight of the sanded surface. The Apoxie tends to have little or no pinholes and can be applied ready for 240+ Grit paper once it has set. Basically saves allllllllllllll the effort of sanding filler after filler.
Ill let you guys know how it goes !!! :P
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