If I were to set up a domain name and put up some sort of free file hosting, much like my image host but specifically for PDO/PDF/ZIP files, could I talk everyone into NOT using 4shared anymore?
I doubt you would get EVERYONE to switch, but perhaps someplace where you could view a preview "on site" of the file you were about to download might be something I would go to instead. I personally have been d/l and/all pep files I can to make an archive as well for sharing with my friends, family and co-workers. If you do create such a place please send me a PM so I can check it out.
A preview function would be fantastic, but I don't think there's a way I could do that on the fly with PDO files...it'd really still have to be up to the creator or uploader to supply an appropriate image. Either that, or I'd have a second full-time job tracking uploads and making thumbnails.
I'll poke around and see what I can find by way of hosting scripts. The one I'm using for the image hosting is OK, but it doesn't preserve the original file name, which I think would be important to keep with something like this. I actually already have an appropriate domain name (because I was going to work on this anyway, even if nobody uses it ) so it's just a question of getting some software in place.
I'll drop you a note if and when I get something together, Klwl, if you'd like to help me test it out
Sure thing, drop me a line here or over at SIWDAT when things get rolling
Question: is there a way to do pep without using fiberglass or Bondo? I know the initial paper model needs to be strengthened, then smoothed - but isn't there something a little less toxic to use?
If no one has tried anything, I may experiment around and see if I find something. I guess it's all a matter of durability...
Well if all safety precautions are taken and the chemicals are used properly, they can quite SAFELY be used, over and over again.
With that being said, yes you can use alternative fillers and hardeners on your pieces.
Without disparaging those other chemicals, the fiberglass/bondo/resin/glaze techniques offer quick turnaround in the curing of the chemical among the benefits.
This quick turnaround saves time but also has an added bonus in that, since we are working with paper, the less time the hardening chemicals stay liquid, the better.
Paper tends to soak up whatever you put on it and can often become weak.
So while white glue, plaster, latex, and regular "tape" might be the way go if you really arent going to use the chemical stuff.
i third a pep forum so it can move all the ironman pep builds there, so i can skip over them and read the other cool pep projects that are going on.
im still not entirely sure its something i want to try yet, but i would like to watch a few people's projects move along.
For my first go at a pepakura iron man helmet (pic below) I used super glue to attach all the parts. I'd never done anything like this before but certainly came across two major issues with super glue:
1. You get zero window of opportunity for lining up the parts - it's really go to be first time luck to get it right - which I didn't on every part.
2. It's too easy to glue the bits to your hand!!
What's the best type of glue to use when pepping? I want something that gives you more chance to line up the numbers before setting for good.
Is PVA glue worth a go? I did read that a hot glue gun is good although what are the best options?
Any suggestions welcome. I'm in the process of cutting out my second go at iron man so will use the different glue for that.
Using Super Glue Gel instead of the regular stuff gives you a longer window to align the parts. It's really not much more than a few seconds, but it's almost all I use due to its advantages.
When I don't feel like getting headaches from constant close proximity to the fumes, I've used PVA glue. It takes a while longer to dry, but you can minimize the dry time (and paper warping) by using a small brush to apply glue to the tabs as opposed to squirting it right out of the bottle.
One of the cool things about PVA glue is that you can brush it onto your finished Pep in thin layers for quick reinforcement (to ensure sizing, working joints and all that jazz) without dealing with resin until you're sure the file works.
we don't use glue. we use scotch tapes.
BadBoy, check the sticky http://www.therpf.com/f24/pepakura-question-thread-please-read-rules-first-post-87056/
Last edited by Hamsterstyle; Jun 8, 2010 at 1:22 AM.
i use this http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/s...k=P_PartNumber
or hot glue depending on what im building, i find the loctite takes longer to bond but keeps the flaps nice and flat.
the hot glue tends to keep it shape much better which is great in some of those corner pieces.
I've never understood why anybody uses anything else when white Elmer's glue is perfect for pepping. You get plenty of time to line up your tabs, there are no fumes, and you can't glue your hands together.
And another good reason is warping. A miniscule amount of PVA glue will wrinkle even 110lb cardstock (as I've recently discovered) before it dries... not very good for parts intended to be symmetrical or mechanically precise.
If it weren't for the fumes, I'd stick exclusively with Super Glue Gel.
I never thought of that, I just developed techniques to prevent the wrinkling, and my pepping probably takes a lot longer than those who use super glue.