The PEPAKURA question thread - PLEASE READ RULES IN FIRST POST!

[ultulva]

Originally Posted by themanwoaname

you can put a layer of masking tape over the sword, spray pam or mold release over it, sculpt the clay on it, carefully remove the clay, bake, then use your adhesive of choice to secure it back to the sword.

Masking tape, genius. Simple, but definitely didn't think of it. I have tried plastics and it didn't turn out so well. What about the carving portion of it? Any idea of something thick i can coat the whole blade in and cut away from it?

[themanwoaname]

im not clear on this part, are you asking what to use to sculpt the blade? or sculpt the decorations of the blade?

if its on top of the blade decorations use sculpey, on top of the masking tape

[ultulva]

Originally Posted by themanwoaname

im not clear on this part, are you asking what to use to sculpt the blade? or sculpt the decorations of the blade?

if its on top of the blade decorations use sculpey, on top of the masking tape

Sorry I was a little unclear, maybe a picture will help. So here is the sword:

As you can see there is alot of fine work along the blade that I feel would not be easily crafted with clay and then applied. A much easier approach would be to add a thick layer or some material on top of what I have and cutting away at it (the black pits). I just don't know what material i can use that will stick to the resin and will be durable enough for basic wear without falling to pieces.
Thanks for the help.

[themanwoaname]

you know you might want to do a thin to sort of thick layer of just the resin over it and pick out of that. you could print out your pattern if you have any 1:1 scale pics and adhere it over that layer of resin, and dig out with whatever doesnt belong with an exacto, a dental pick or something. if its a solid peice to the blade you dont need to worry about masking tape for that. just do another layer over it, and pick out the details like i said.

[ultulva]

Originally Posted by themanwoaname

you know you might want to do a thin to sort of thick layer of just the resin over it and pick out of that. you could print out your pattern if you have any 1:1 scale pics and adhere it over that layer of resin, and dig out with whatever doesnt belong with an exacto, a dental pick or something. if its a solid peice to the blade you dont need to worry about masking tape for that. just do another layer over it, and pick out the details like i said.

Thanks for the help. This was my original idea, but i figured that it would probably take an additional 3 - 4 coats of it, and etching in it with an exacto is not the easiest thing ever. just seemed like there might have been something easier. Again thanks for taking time out to give me your input, I appreciate it.

[themanwoaname]

you're welcome. lol, unfortunately that would be what i imagine to be the easier way. :/

[Aphius]

Originally Posted by ultulva

Wasn't exactly sure where to drop this question, but hopefully someone can help me out. So I need to work on finishing a couple swords fast (1 weeks time) I have pepped and resin'd the 2 prince of Persia swords (Warrior within : eagle and lion). So I have their basic shapes but i would now need to add the details, ie. the Lion / eagle heads and the filigree all down the blade. I have natural argile clay and wanted to see if maybe there was a way to harden / secure details formed with this (uncured) by coating it in resin or the like. I can do good work, but at this point i need something that will work within my time-frame. If not this clay I'm okay with trying something else. Any suggestions?

If you're comfortable with clay, one thing that I've heard people use is something like this, it's epoxy putty, starts out like a clay and hardens to the consistency that Bondo or something similar would.

[jedichase]

Hello everybody,

I tried my hand at making a halo assault rifle with pepakura and I decided to use super glue but it would dry to fast and the seams wouldn't be perfectly line up.
So what is the best glue that dries quickly but lets me have some time to adjust the seam?

May the force be with you all,
Chase K.

[Qui-Gonzalez]

I believe people say super glue gel.

[wisesky]

The best stuff to use for th card stock is Aleene's Original Tacky Glue.

It holds within about 5 seconds, so it gives a chance to move stuff before it bonds, but it is excellent, and relatively cheap. 4oz is like 1.50 and 8oz is 2.50 i think at walmart (its where i bought mine). if you can't find it there, any crafts store will have it.

[Finhead]

I disagree, super glue gel is the best way to go IMO. Gives a chance to move since it's gel dries quickly after pressure is applied. I've never had any let go on me when coated with resin regardless of how hot I mix it. But this is just my opinion, what do I know.

Originally Posted by wisesky

The best stuff to use for th card stock is Aleene's Original Tacky Glue.

It holds within about 5 seconds, so it gives a chance to move stuff before it bonds, but it is excellent, and relatively cheap. 4oz is like 1.50 and 8oz is 2.50 i think at walmart (its where i bought mine). if you can't find it there, any crafts store will have it.

[themanwoaname]

i havent had any issues with loctite superglue that comes in the .35 oz bottle from walmart for around 2 bucks.

im excited, today i start on my USCM armor. im making 3.

[Rick Hanson]

The correct answer is: whichever glue works best for you. I've been building card models for a loooooong time, and I still use a variety of glues depending on the situation. Just experiment a little bit and figure out what you're the most comfortable with.

There's an easy trick to using white glue - use a thin implement (like a toothpick or something similar) to wipe a very, very thin coat on your glue tab. Press the parts together gently, adjust as needed, and then squeeze them to set the glue. Small spring clamps, or tweezers that don't have serrated ends, are excellent for applying pressure in semi-awkward areas.

Super glue gel is good too, but I've actually found that I prefer the absolute cheapest dollar store or Wal-Mart liquid super glue I can put my hands on.

It's all in whatcha like.

[Sunkistshark]

Has anyone ever seen a Buzz Lightyear PDO? I've never done any pep but want to try with buzz. maybe just a boot or bracer first. I googled and looked at the links on page 1. google brought up 1 guys page he made a miniature buzz. I'm not sure how to adjust scale up so I need one that is relatively correct. Can anyone help me?

[Aphius]

Originally Posted by Pilot

I've actually found that I prefer the absolute cheapest dollar store or Wal-Mart liquid super glue I can put my hands on.

I agree, I buy the el cheapo 6 packs of superglue from my closest discount store for like $2 and it works just as well for the pepakura assembly as the more expensive stuff.

Originally Posted by Sunkistshark

Has anyone ever seen a Buzz Lightyear PDO?

I've probably seen the one you're thinking of, (Here?). If you have Pepakura Designer you can scale the pieces up in one of the program menus.

[Cujo3131]

Just curious....

Anyone ever seen the nuBSG raptor or Viper helmets as Pep?

I would be seriously interested in any links to BSG related pep....

thanks!

Cujo

[Sunkistshark]

Originally Posted by Aphius

I've probably seen the one you're thinking of, (Here?). If you have Pepakura Designer you can scale the pieces up in one of the program menus.

That is the one I seen. I dont have Designer, only viewer. Is there a free copy of designer somewhere as I've cut up my credit cards.

[TheFur]

these are awsome instructions Nach! It is exactly what I was looking for. As a complete noob, I was wondering where to even begin!

Thanks a lot!
The Fur

Originally Posted by nachtinis

Sorry no mac version yet.

My process for carglassing:
1) polyurethane seal the paper model at 3 coats, not to thick.
2) glue/hotglue seal obvious holes in the peice where resins will leak through
3) dont mix and match epoxy with polyester resin.
4) light coat of polyester (fiberglass) resin or smoothcast 300/325 brushed on to about 3 coats.
5) interior resining can now be done roto casting for initial durability or slush in some smoothcast or resin. x coats should suffice then if you want add the fiberglass clothing to a 3rd layer.
6) grind off any escaped resins/plastic from holes you missed
7) bondo with a spatula at all seamed areas, be frugal and work in layers
8) SAND repeat to #7 as needed
9) when you get to a point where its smalelr than quarter sized areas to bondo, start using a filler putty instead, glazing putty works great.
10) SAND and repeat to #9 as needed
11) Use a leveling resin like laminating epoxy as the final coating and sand that gradually getting to a finer grit then use steel wool
12) grind off and sand excess resins
13) paint
14) ???
15) profit

Another process:
1) Seal the outside of the model with polyurethane
2) carefully wrap the model as close to its surfaces as possible with tin foil
3) melt plasticine (non hardening clay)
4) pour melted plasticine into model cavity and let cool
5) remove foil and paper and you now have a base clay model to work from!

[Aphius]

Originally Posted by Sunkistshark

That is the one I seen. I dont have Designer, only viewer. Is there a free copy of designer somewhere as I've cut up my credit cards.

No, unfortunately the only way to get it is to pay for it.

Well that's not exactly true, there's piracy, but we wont discuss that.

[rafy]

hey guys i have a question is it possible to pep like a 14x6 cylinder then resinit,fiberglass it, and bondo it , cut holes in it and make a drum shell out of it?

[Kyle138]

Yes or No? Uploaded with ImageShack.us This has been giving me trouble. I've been wasting too much cardstock. So I wonder if anyone could help me out. Thanks!

[Wes R]

Anyone know of sites that have pep files of real world weapons and ammo? I can't find must of anythign for real guns and ammo and since my shrink won't let me have the real thing i have to settle for this.

[Dic07046139]

hi guys does anybody have a pepakura file for the Morita rifle from starship troopers? i have tried searching but to no avail, hopefully one of you guys may have it.
cheers in advance

[Havok69]

Originally Posted by Kyle138

Yes or No? Uploaded with ImageShack.us This has been giving me trouble. I've been wasting too much cardstock. So I wonder if anyone could help me out. Thanks!

Answer No, or the file will not be scaled correctly. It was most likely originally done with A4 paper. So print to A4 paper if you can find it, or legal size paper.

[AndiB]

I have read the previous posts..*or tried to*..so please excuse me if I missed something.

I have a question about alternates to Bondo. I have read that some have used Spackling ..or a mixture of spackling/white glue to help smooth out the pet. Has anyone here tired that?

And if so..would that be put on before or AFTER the resin? (I plan on using smooth-cast.) Could the Spackling be put on before Smooth cast.

Thanks for any help.