I am making a Wikus Prawn arm out of a block of squishy foam, and the last time I tried to paint foam, it all soaked in and took more than a week to dry. Any ideas as to how I can avoid this and have it painted and dry in a short amount of time? Need this info ASAP, I really need to get this done by friday. Thanks.
Could you not paint it first with latex and then paint over that ?
Well since I hand cut it, i like the texture. My plan is to paint the foam black, then cover it with black pantyhose, which will show some of the texture. I was going to use liquid latex, but decided against it. I'm only 14, and this is only my second extreme homemade costume. I still need to build up my knowledge and skill.contec said:
Will this not soak through? Maybe I need some sort of primer...foxbatkllr said:
Floral Spray Paint works well on fabric, which is why I think it might work on foam. Primer wouldn't do any good.IronCostumer said:
The design master paints I think would work. That's what I've used on fabric before.
Here's the website (it even recommends it on craft foam)
http://www.dmcolor.com/products/?id=15
Last edited by foxbatkllr; Oct 25, 2009 at 1:40 PM.
Someone was going to make a costume out of soft foam, and was going to paint it. I had an idea and tried it myself before I suggested it. You can use a water based acrylic craft paint, but you mix it with a water based acrylic calk.
You get some "water clean up" acrylic calk, which you use as a thickner. You just put some in a cup, and you use an acrylic craft paint to color it. You paint on a base coat which will seal the pores of the foam. It takes about a day in a hot area to dry. Thickening it with the calk keeps it from being absorbed too deep into the foam. Once the first layer is dry, you can paint on another coat and so on until you get the desire coverage.
Being calk, it remains flexable.
I had the same problem while doing a torso mold of a local porn actress, the form taken from the mold was a very light foam. It wouldn't take any paint of any form.
I tried a new product that I hadn't ever used before called Plasti Dip.
Its the same product that the handles of steel hammers are dipped in for a drip. IE:Estwing Hammers.
http://www.plastidip.co.uk/index2.cfm
I got the spray can version of it but as you can see from the link there are other forms of applications avalible as well as color. I Used the clear version.
The first layer goes on and soaks in, when it drys into the foam each layer applied after that goes on very nice. then you can paint it just the same as a latex mask.
Hope this helms.
-Matt
I'm guessing plasti-dip won't maintain the texture he wants. That's what I'd try as well, and I know it works to "seal" the foam, but test it first...
And can I have the job where I make porn star molds, please?
Well, thanks for all the advice, but I already did something. I used Black hairspray. I tried this on some other foam and it didn't sink in. So now I am in the process of layering up the hand and wrist piece. After it airs out a little to get rid of the smell, I need to put black pantyhose over the hand to give it a fleshy look. Because of its odd shape, I am pretty much clueless on how to do this. Any help anybody?
I'm doing a ghetto-Prawn-hand myself...
Using an old sock, some hard-drive protective foam, and black gutter sealant, with camping-mat "scales".
OK, it ain't gonna look hugely accurate, but it's fairly sturdy so far and looks passable for halloween
Pics once finished.
I've never had success with plasti-dip. It also has just soaked right in on me. I've used latex and painted over that, but latex is fragile and can peel right off too. Both of these methods are trying to do on thing: seal the surface, yet retain flexibility.
One flexible method I've heard of but yet to try is using elmer's glue. You mix it in a 1:1 ratio with water, brush on, let dry for 24 hours and then paint. It should provide a flexible surface yet seal the foam at the same time to allow painting. I'd suggest testing a small section of scrap foam with a thin layer and seeing how that works. If nothing else, it's a cheap experiment. Good Luck!
If flexibility isn't important or needed, then you can bondo over foam, fiberglass over foam, and another thing I've yet to try is this:
http://www.sculpturalarts.com/sculpt...directions.htm
I've dealt with the painting part, now I need ideas on good ways to put pantyhose over the whole thing. The pantyhose is going to give it a more fleshy look.
There's an airbrush paint I use on all my foam rubber stuff, and it's fantastic. It will crack and chip over time, but hey, it's foam!
Give Createx a try, You can get it at Micheal's, Pat Catan's, or any art shop with an airbrush section. I usua;ly brush it on, but a light coat from an airbrush may just pull the effect off!
Best of luck!
we got a tip about this from the GWAR guys.. use a coat of web adhesive spray first! it works!
Well how did you do it? I'm going to be in a similar situation soon and enquiring minds would like to know!IronCostumer said:
And towards the last post, what is "web adhesive spray?"
If you are asking how I solved the painting problem, I used black hairspray. I did some tests with some I had lying around the house and found that it doesn't sink in much.loganallenwolf said:
I'm really sorry I missed this thread. The guys that make the Japanese monster movies use a product like the glue used in holding shoe soles on. The product here has a bear on the label, I forget the name but if there is a shoe repair shop near you just ask them what glue they use for resoling and they will get you the right stuff. After you paint it on you can use any paint you want, even metallic automotive paint.
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