Iron man motorised faceplate electronics tutorial!!!

yeah mini IS small.. (nice)

and if you DO NOT want the headers on there.. you can remove the black plastic housing.. and de-solder each pin..


also.. maybe getting some of these:

1-Pin DuPont Wire Connector Cables (40 PCS / 20cm) - Worldwide Free Shipping - DX

might help for easy/quick connection.

also not sure exactly what FTDI cable/board you got...

but here is a link on how several of use mod'd ours to work.

Tutorial for hacking a CP2102 USB from ebay and uploading a sketch to an Atmega - Arduino Forum


I believe the RESET pin on the FTDI board is NOT RESET for the Arduino board.. its to reset its OWN chip...

on the bottom of the board is a DTR pad...

solutions:

1.) cut the trace to the RESET pin.. and jumper a wire from the DTR pad to the RESET pin/pad (ie: using same pins/pads.. but jumper the DTR pin to the RESET pad)

2.) like I did.. add an extra 2-pin header to the ends.. and jumper the DTR pad on the bottom to a new pin on the header you added.



thats it.

1.) choose the correct board & port in the Arduino IDE
2.) make sure DTR, GND, +5v, RX & TX are connected to your board.
3.) upload sketch


continue Iron Man development!!
 
Wow. All I saw in that last part was
Fggdfvbbnjjbvdsdcbjjbcf :-O haha!

I'm walking and reading at the same time so I shall try decipher mind blowing tech speak later lol. Sure it will make more sense when I look at my hardware.

This is the cable:
http://bit.ly/TgNw4A

Is much rather just plug it in and watch things happen but I get the feeling that's not gonna work.
 
WOW!..

ok.. well that was NOT the same FTDI cable I linked too.. mine was only like $3.00 USD..

yours probably just works out of the box for that price!.. heck for that price it should come with a back rub too!

(make you sure in stall any drives need for it too)

looks like they link to the drives software on the audtion listing fo ryou.


also its not clear.. but what TYPE of cable did you order?

they have several listed:

USB2TTL5B - 5v TTL with BLACK Moudling

USB2TTL3B - 3.3v TTL with BLACK Moudling

USB2TTL5T - 5v TTL with TRANSPARENT Moudling with Rx/Tx LEDs

USB2TTL3T - 3.3v TTL with TRANSPARENT Moudling with Rx/Tx LEDs

I hope you got the +5v one matching your Arduino mini board..
 
WOW! This is great! I wish I understood most of what is being said... May tackle this project one day. Thanks for all your hard work! Merry Christmas.
 
dont be confused by the techno-babble.. or the acronyms in the words.. :)

it basically just describing the way you can connect your board to your computer to upload new sketches/code to it..
 
So did anyone get the required components from Santa? Or is anyone intending on treating themselves with Christmas money's? :)
 
I got 'zero' electronics really (bummer)..

noted on the FTDI cable.. (you probably wont need to hack/mod anything) :)
 
7sinzz said:
So did anyone get the required components from Santa? Or is anyone intending on treating themselves with Christmas money's? :)
Click to expand...

I will be treating myself with Xmas money's that's why I have been learning as much as I can about how this is all done :)
 
Already got a few hundred for all the electronics and what not. Keep us posted on the stuff you'll be using. Links would also be dandy :D
 
IronLeoMan. As soon as your stuff comes through we can get another Skype session on the go.

I will be documenting every action made and updating the first post to be as simple as possible to follow.
 
Whats left on the project that needs to be done? :)

(seems fairly complete to me?)

Also.. Id make a 'check-list' in first post or something..

noting all the features/functionality you want.. and then go through the list checking off each one as it is completed.. might help keep things organized and clean.. with a nice direct goal to the tasks at hand. :)
 
I just wanna buy the power supply, wire up all my new components to make sure they work, then fit them in the helmet. Once I know it works then I can update the first post.
 
http://www.therpf.com/f24/motorized-iron-man-mark-6-helmet-not-169767/
Worth noting, might be a cool add-on if it's made possible.

Proboably the goals would be -
1.Faceplate lifts up, chin opens. Once closed - eye flicker (2 times) fade on (or not) and LEDs light up. Maybe implementing that ambitious motion in the thread i linked to

scaled.php


2. Unibeam power. Surge/wave of light from bottom abs to chest, then the unibeam. Proboably 3 or so lights in the cavities of the abs (some people might split them up and use springs to make 'em comfortable/move with them. One in the chest (or more, don't know exactly) and one more light in the unibeam that would light up (or just more strength of the light programmed in). I know this is a crap load to think about, honestly The fact that you're making a tutorial for this is really, really nice from your behalf. Everytime somebody was asked how they went about the faceplate they just replied - oh, that's a lot of work. Maybe some other time. A big-ass thanks from all the noobs (and non-noobs, lol)

Iron Man's Ultimate Weapon - YouTube

3. Repulsors, HA! (or... flight stabilizer?) Forgot about that, did we, sir? Or am I missing something? Maybe there already is a tutorial for that? However, maybe we could make it more simple/clean-up. (I'm sorry I said we, as you guys are doing all the hard work :**)

4. Flaps? Dancing Fool (best MK 3 file creator, mind you) made 4 whooping flaps. I would suggest two modes - checking the flaps. Just opening and closing stuff. And keeping them opened for any period of time you like until you press a button or something.

5. Calves. I'm pretty sure calves can open too. They work like flight stabilizers, also.

Sorry for the block of text, I'm bad with words. And thank you, once again for the awesome input into the community. We were waiting quite some time for somebody to actually break this down and serve it on a plate.

I'll try and look up videos/gifs for all the motions mentioned above.
 
Last edited:
Although that motion in the thread you linked to is awesome! It's not something I'm comfortable attempting. It looks WAAAYYYY to complicated and time consuming, and as someone said in the thread, so much potential to loose chunks of hair.

Repulsers and arc reactor have been covered millions of times throughout the forum so I probably won't be touching them. My intentions are to learn animation and teach my findings along the way. I like the idea of a pulse powering up the unibeam though.

There is already enough information in this thread to apply our findings to a faceplate, flight stabilisers (in the back and calfs). Even arm and shoulder missiles. The rest is literally just soldering and powering.

Your suggestions are great, but lets keep things as simple as possible for now so everyone can have an animated suit, then we can move on to more complicated things :)
 
you can buy any power supply you want, that is at least 6v.. but but I would go for a 7v+ pack myself.. (two li-ion batteries, maybe some 14500's or close in size)
 
I usually just make my own battery packs, soldering them together..etc to make a 7.4v pack.. (but I also normally add a re-charge port so I can install the battery packs in the prop/project and have a port to re-charge things externally)

this means the batteries need to be:

1.) protected cells
2.) rechargeable


I think your auction states it 'comes' with a case?

are you planning on switching things out (batteries) when they die?

I would try to get some dimensions on the 'case' to ensure fitment..

maybe even going with some Li-ion 10440 sized batteries would be better? (smaller in size)


you need to find a nice 'balance' between getting enough voltage to power the Arduino/vreg..etc

as well as has enough 'current' to drive your components

and.. be small enough in footprint to fit int he helmet.. and not be 'janky' :)


for 'me'...

I would think about:

1.) how & where Im going to mount this
2.) how much room i have for this
3.) thoughts on the future when the batteries 'die' need to be replaced..

(you have a lot to mount in there... planning at this stage is IMPORTANT and crucial to your final project)

1.) leds/pcbs (x 2)
2.) Arduino
3.) battery pack
4.) (at least) 2 x servo for the faceplate movement
5.) hinge/bracket mounting for the above.
 
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