Help with EVA foam and glue

hi guys, i just started working with EVA foam to build a couple sets of N7 armor.
im having a real tough time of it.
ive cut out half of the chest using my dremil to try and get the smoothest cut i can get without having to sand. after doing so i realized that i havent found anything anywhere on how to properly heat, bend and glue the foam.
for glue, i have the 3M super 77, which i dont think works very well... and 2 other glues, one i think is gorilla glue for foam.
from the instructions on it, it takes up to 24 hours to set properly. how do you keep your pieces together and in place?

if anyone knows of any tutorials for EVA foam construction or has some tips, i would very much appreciate it.

I found Shoe Glue works best with the EVA foam I have used.

The answer you're looking for is Hot Glue.
Don't use too much though (but not too little)... you don't want the hot glue to squirt out of the joint between the foam pieces... because this will make the joint more visible and harder to hide (regardless if you're using a thick sealer like plasti-dip).

Best thing is to "reinforce" the joint from the back side of your armor.

You are right Full Metal... hot glue is the way to go. I did find however if it does squirt out.. that you can take the hot tip of the glue gun and run it across the seam to lightly heat it.. then take a wet finger tip and run it along to both cool and smooth the glue that bubbled up.

Hot glue definitely is AMAZING when it come to EVA foam. Not only that, you can get glue guns and glue sticks for next to nothing at the local dollar store, so stock up Grave!

Actually, I have an EVA-related question too:
EVA foam comes in different thicknesses, and the re-use center I get my foam from doesn't always have the hard, thick ones (the ones I get vary from 3-6mm).
What method is best and/or cheapest to coat or reinforce the foam so that it doesn't warp and bend while I move around?

I did a test with just fibreglass resin, which I thought would penetrate the pores like hot glue and then harden the foam as it dries, but it didn't turn out like that at all.
I would love to use fibreglass matting, but it's pretty expensive for the amounts I need, and will be too heavy for what I'm using it for.

Any other suggestions?

Termin8Anakin - what I usually do when I need to reinforce foam is essientially coating it with hot glue (on the back side - so it doesn't show). You can get different "strenght" with how much or how little hot glue you actually use.

On a side note - to make this easier to do and also more confortable - I'll always put a thin sheet of foam on the hot glue coat... so it would be like adding a second layer of foam on the inside with a coat of hot glue sandwhiched in the middle.

While doing this - you can "form" your foam as well... and once the hot glue will have cooled down, your foam will keep the shape it cooled down in.

I have a small question as well. What would happen if you coated the foam in Smoothcast 321 to harden it? Disaster? Epic win?

thanks guys.
i did try hot glue last week when i tried to build the forearm. and yes, it pushed out. so i did use the tip to try and smooth it out, but ended up melting the foam.
i know all about hot glue. ive been following evilfx for years. i was surprised when he said that he didnt use hot glue on his armor.

so does anyone have anything about heat guns and ,moulding the n7 armor?

Vinom11 said:

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I have a small question as well. What would happen if you coated the foam in Smoothcast 321 to harden it? Disaster? Epic win?

Smooth-On has a ShellShock brushable plastic that I've been dying to see put over EVA foam as an alternative to fiberglass resin.

doing some research, looks like im going to use mod pog to seal my armor. it seems to be the least likely to screw up and cheap for a big container of the outdoor type.

Better (in my opinion) than ModPog is FlexiBond by Rosco. Better consistency and once you seal it you can even use spraypaint and the foam will still bend, but the spraypaint wont crack. YMMV.

question before i spray with plasti-dip.
ive just finished dremiling my lines. ive noticed that there are are small fibers. ive tried using 3M grade bristle pad to get rid of it. its what i normally use for my sanding. it equals 100 grit paper.
is there a better way to get rid of the foam burs or what ever you want to call them?
i would really like to seal and paint some stuff this weekend.
thanks
grave

figured out my own way of painting, since i cant get the plasti-dip
elmers glue, paint, glue, paint, glue. and its done!
so now to finish of a couple pieces and buy a big thing of glue and some rollers.
maybe some day i can get some pics up here

Vinom11 said:

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I have a small question as well. What would happen if you coated the foam in Smoothcast 321 to harden it? Disaster? Epic win?

Don't.

It will peel right off eventually. Doesn't bond very well.

I tried doing that for the interior to strengthen a test piece.

nah...

i have a test piece in the garage right now. im going to bend the hell out of it tomorrow after its fully cured and see what happens.

ok, im going to go get more supplies today. so i hope someone can give me an answer soon. has anyone tried using 2 part epoxy on eva foam to join edges?

i think im going to try "rocker guard"

Grave said:

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i think im going to try "rocker guard"

I tried that, it works but it cracks very easily

plastdip still does crack when painted on foam but there are no real impressions of the cracks once the part flexes back to the original position.

rocker guard will leave a shattered glass look on the part over time.

tried the rocker guard. if i would have sealed the foam before using it.... it works great!
cheaper and more common than plasti-dip

Grave said:

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tried the rocker guard. if i would have sealed the foam before using it.... it works great!
cheaper and more common than plasti-dip

how is it not cracking as it flexes?

are you doing anything differently aside from just spraying it?

because it is rubberised rocker guard. basically the same ingredients as plastidip, just more flammable

Grave said:

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because it is rubberised rocker guard. basically the same ingredients as plastidip, just more flammable

weird.

I tried this a while back and didn't work out so well...
it just cracked really badly.

I'll try it again.

This can be a great alternative as it's easier to find than plastidip
I'll just have to test it again.

i just went out and got some sealer. im about to go out and try it now if you want to wait for my next post.

Grave said:

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i just went out and got some sealer. im about to go out and try it now if you want to wait for my next post.

ok great. Good luck man. This can save people a lot of cash if it works.

since you have done this before. what is the best glue to attach edges together?
i was thinking epoxy. super 77 doesnt work worth a...