remember your registration keys for the mother mold to mate with the inner mold correctly
remember your registration keys for the mother mold to mate with the inner mold correctly
Hard to see in that shot. Did you not put registration keys in the mold rubber? It may have a tendency to want to shift in the jacket if there are no keys.
I was worried about this very thing, so I decided to take as many precautions as I could think of. I built up a section of the rubber mold on the nose which will get drilled through and a bolt put in, which should hold the front in place. Plus I left plenty of flashing on the bottom, and will bolt the core into the rubber mold and mother mold as well. That should hold the bottom in place. I did the same thing to the rear where the seam will get cut. Speaking of the rear, I decided to go with a 3 part mold; 1 part in the front and 2 in the rear. The inner mold will get squished into the mother mold, which I'm hoping will minimize the seam.
Getting ready to mold the first part of the back tonight. Getting all the WEP clay off of the front part of the mold was a PITA.
Here's a picture of that built up seam I put in the back. The mother mold will squish against it on each side and bolts will go through it.
One last section to go and then I can FINALLY demold! Should be popping this thing open on Wednesday!
One of three things just happened:
1. I encased my sculpt in rubber and resin, never to be able to disassemble it again
2. I successfully created a mother mold around a rubber mold that sucks
3. I successfully created a rubber mold and a mother mold
Place your bets! We'll find out the answer tomorrow!
Just demolded. Didn't go quite as nicely as I would have hoped. The inner mold came out very nice; only one seam to deal with, and it's in the back of the head. From what I can tell, the rubber captured the detail of the sculpt perfectly.
The mother mold on the other hand didn't fare so well. The rear 2 pieces came off beautifully. The front piece, however, didn't have the same fate. I'm going to have to do some repairs and reinforcement on it. Not sure if it was undercuts, weak spots, or bonding that caused it to stick so bad.
No pictures today. Just need to walk away from it for a while and think about how to salvage.
Did you use a mould release? If not that's why it stuck. Smooth on make a mother mould fibrous resin that is much easier to use than a fiberglass jacket. It's fast setting too.....
Yes, I used mold release. I suspect what happened was I used too much polyfiber and it made it brittle.
In any event, it is currently in the studio curing. I ended up epoxying all the pieces back together, then I added a layer of resin, a layer of fiberglass cloth, and a thickened layer of resin. Tomorrow I will clean up the edges, assemble the whole thing, and see how things line up.
Wednesday I am ordering all the casting supplies!
Man I am loving this, I would love a Silicone Hellboy mask, he's one of my favorite movie characters.
Mold is all fixed! The fiberglass cloth did the trick. Tomorrow I am ordering all the casting supplies! I'll be casting in Plat-Sil Gel 10 with Fuse FX pigment.
Got the vacuum chamber and pump to degas the silicone! Silicone is showing up tomorrow, and then I will just be waiting on the pigments to arrive!
This evening I started playing around with the silicone and pigments, making sure that when I go full-scale, that the color will be correct. So far, I'm having mixed results. The color is suspending nicely in the silicone, but it's far too pink. I'm waiting to hear back from Fuse FX to see what I'm doing wrong. So casting will be on hold until I solve this problem.
I'm just glad I did a test pour before filling my mold with pink silicone. Although my fiance thinks it would be a lovely color for Hellboy...if I wore assless chaps.
I believe you can use oil based paints to tint your silicone, I read that on the FX's forum. Might want to give it a shot with a small amount and see if it cures properly if your feeling like experimenting.![]()
Just added some oil paint to my silicone. The color is FANTASTIC! Now we'll see what happens when it comes to curing, and whether there is any residual paint smell.
It took a lot longer to cure, but it definitely cured!
Here's the difference in color. The piece on the left is using Fuse FX F-Series pigment, and the piece on the right is using oil paint. I mixed the oil paint too dark for this experiment. If I end up using this to cast it, then I'll keep it a lot lighter.
Have you asked Fettster what he used for his? His colour is spot on.
Your sculpt and progress are amazing! So spot on! The red colour with the oil paint is looking great too. Can't wait to see more progress :]
Good deal on it curing proper.Can you add a little platcat to it? Or are you using something other than Smooth on? If you are whatever they use to speed up the cure you could add a touch to offset the slower cure. Mind you in a cored mold might not be a bad idea to let it cure slower, let it air out a bit longer might help.
Actually, it's a good thing! I'm using PlatSil Gel 10, and out of the bottle it cures in 6 minutes, which is way too fast to degas it. I will be slowing it even further by adding retarder to the mix. My only concern with using oil to color it is that it had an odor when I pulled it from the cup this morning. I will wash it with soap and water when I get home and see if that solves it. Otherwise it will be back to the drawing board.
Oil based paint is a no-go. The smell isn't improving.
Just for the heck of it (and because I like not listening to manufacturers instructions), I added some acrylic to a test batch. All the manufacturers say that acrylic will inhibit the cure and ruin the batch. Not only did it not inhibit the cure, it didn't even slow it down! And the color is PERFECT, and it has no odor. Plus acrylic is skin-safe.
I think I've found my pigment.
They would be referring to acrylic latex, plat silicone will not dry in the presence of latex. I'm sure you most likely used Acrylic enamel or Acrylic lacquer?