That's better, now we can see who are the knowledgable Brits out there lolPeejfro said:
I only knew cause my brother in law lives in Glasgow and is a genius full of information and heard him use it a couple of times.
That's better, now we can see who are the knowledgable Brits out there lolPeejfro said:
I only knew cause my brother in law lives in Glasgow and is a genius full of information and heard him use it a couple of times.
haha sweet!
Awesome build
Thank you SylarSylargray said:
Hey Drack,
I tried some of your tips last night and they worked perfectly. Thanks again for the tutorials.
Also I used snap fasteners to attach pieces and it worked heaps better than anticipated. I highly recommend using this method to join fixed pieces.
It's posts like these that really make my dayQuikSilver said:
So many people asked how I got clean seams so knocked the tutorials up quick in hope that they may be of use to some one. Glad they were for you my friend
I am going to replace some of my snaps with bigger and stronger ones as some did pop open while doing scale testing but they are great for not having to reach under the armour and fiddle with buckles.
Thanks for the compliments and checking my thread out. Won't have any updates for a week now as waiting on PVC foam board and a circle cutter for my ears to turn up in the mail.
Tom.
What part did you start with and what part did you end with when Assembling the back? I just tried putting the back together and started with all the middle spine pieces and when I was about done I was going to work on the Shoulder area and found it wouldn't line up so I'm having to scrap it and just use it as a learning experience.
I started with the spine first and worked my way out. I can't remember where I ended up though sorry. I do remember having issues with the shoulders but the pep temps are more of a guide some times. I modified them to work with the bits I had done so far. When you cut your templates out always hold them up to the next piece to make sure they will fit. I never cut all the bits out then build. It takes a bit longer to do each piece as you go but means your parts always work.
Last edited by Drack; Dec 12, 2012 at 5:27 AM.
Thanks for there reply. I'll try it piece by piece this time.
Awesome build.
No probs broJuicebox said:
Thank you man.savaged said:
What thickness of foam did you use on the back and front. I have 6mm and smaller and just got some 12mm. It seems like the thicker might be easier to work with on the larger pieces, and I think I read on here you said you were at least 6 ft tall. What scale did you use on you back? I know it's trial and error but I wanna make sure I'm in the right ball park. I've already had to scrap one back already. Don't wanna waste another.
How Rigid does the Plastidip make the foam? Is it similar to fiber glassing in terms of strength and Rigidity? Just trying to decide between platidip or fiberglass for my foam suit I am Building.
it's not a resin, it doesn't make it rigid.outlookaj said:
It's a rubberised coating. People use it to seal the foam before painting.
Make sure to research the products before you buy them
Last edited by STEALTH; Dec 13, 2012 at 11:31 PM.
I used 10mm foam for the whole suit (except the helmet) and my back scale was 25.400371. I did make my back and chest on the large side though to make sure the helmet didn't look to big. The shoulders were scaled up quite a bit too.Juicebox said:
Hello Mr. Drack, just wanted to let you know, as soon as I start building a suit, I am definitely using all this wholesome nutritious information. Thank you.
Thanks stealth! That answers a lot of my questions. That is kind of what i suspected but i wanted to be sure. I suppose more research would have also turned up an answer for me. But i do appreciate the answer!STEALTH said:
Your videos are awesome btw, super helpful.
Thats totally awesome! Great Job! and thanks for the links
MetalMilkMan said:
Glad I could help guys. I remember what it was like when I first started my costume making journey and although all the info is out there it takes a while to hunt all this stuff down so thought I would just get it all in one place. I think when I quit my job I will sit down and do a much more thorough thread on all things needed and why they are used.Hotrodled said:
Well glad Stealth could answer your question even though I would have said the same, highjackeroutlookaj said:
When I do my proper foam building thread I will have to go into more detail on each product you use and why/how. I think I will do it in a format similar to Clivelee's gundam tutorial thread as its one of the best out there. Not mention his work is truely outstanding.
Thanks for watching and all the great comments,
Tom.
Hey Drack,
Just thought I would throw in some ideas here. When I was sourcing my foam for my build, I could not get the EVA foam mats in the thickness I wanted so I went to a local foam supplier and picked up some closed cell from sheets that were 6mm thick. I also asked what is the most rigid they have in that thickness. They came out with an 80kg/m2 sheet (not sure what the standard foam mats are but I believe they aren't as dense as this). It cost around AU$30 so it was a good price and the foam seemed like a good density.
The interesting part, is that in all the tutorials I have watched and forums read, I keep hearing that using blunt blades causes the foam to club/tear or ball up. So I started to take note on how many blades people go through and how many I have. On one particular build, the guy said that he went through something like 5-6 blades on the chest plate alone. Now I have built the chest, back, brace, arms, abs and cod and I have only gone through a maximum of 10 blades.
So from my observations, using a denser foam means that it is structurally more stable therefore a clean cut doesn't have to be done with an exceptionally sharp blade.
Since you seem to be quite adept at making good clean cuts, I thought you would be the perfect guy to test this theory.
Drack said:
It's still rubs the ego up the right way to hear it though
I got it from plastidip.co.uk. It is costly but like I said a 2.5ltr can is still going and here is everything I have made so far.
Hold on a minute, you made all of that, including the halo suit, with one 2.5ltr tin of plastidip?
Yep everything I have made has been under coated with that one tin and its still going and I have a metre long MA5C assault rifle for the halo suit too
Doesn't seem such bad value for money now since one 2.5ltr tin shall cost me €52.47 before postage.
Hey drack just wondering if you used the same pepakura templates as the ones for Xrobot?
Also can the foam be heat bent like plastazote?
I was just wondering because I was going to start doing a suit and while your method looks cheaper and the quality looks pretty similar he does have a tutorial. So I was just wondering if the gym mats could be used in the same way.
Thanks
dude awesome work..... with ur tips i home mine comes out as good .
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