Jan 3, 2013, 4:31 AM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
Great build! You've only been sewing for how long? Holy cow, you make me look like a freaking noob, and I've been doing it for 20 years! Looks like you're achieving a pretty good fit there, btw, judging from your mock up.
Jan 3, 2013, 5:12 AM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
In regards to the blue wool coat, I decided there were too many noob mistakes in my pattern and stitching and really hated the fabric (too thick, WAY too dark) so I decided to scrap the project and come back to it in the future after I get a fabric I like better. It was a great learning experience, though. I have plenty of other stuff to focus on for now.
Shirt pattern is almost finished, I just have to adjust the front piece to fit and then combine the collar and collar stand pattern pieces into one. Not sure how that will work out, but the two curves on this pattern match up pretty closely, so I don't foresee big problems.
Jan 4, 2013, 6:03 AM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
That took longer than expected.
Theoretically, this is the most perfectly fitting dress shirt I'll ever wear. All seam allowances reduced to 1/2", because 5/8" is ridiculous. I also had to tweak some oddities in the Burda shirt pattern, ranging from the cuff being one piece folded in half up to the pleats in the sleeve end being in the wrong place (at least according to every shirt in my closet). Combining the collar and collar stand was pretty easy, and I think I got the shape of the collar point spot on. Really looking forward to sewing this one up.
Jan 5, 2013, 1:25 AM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
The pieces of the shirt are cut out. I'll probably sew them together this weekend. Still trying to track down the right buttons.
Jan 5, 2013, 4:42 AM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
This work is amazing ! the Tom coat button is absolutely spot on, Ive been producing resin ones for a tailor friend of mine, after searchind for days to find the accurate buttons, so that's a really lucky find. Good luck with the tailoring, your fabric choices look good to me.
Jan 5, 2013, 8:52 PM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
Great Project. I really get so inspired checking over the work you have done. Man anything is possible.
Jan 7, 2013, 6:19 AM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
The body of the shirt is put together, as are the two pieces of the collar. The cuff plackets were surprisingly easy. The first one took a little while to figure out, but the second one was done in 5 minutes.
I spent about 20 minutes pinning the collar on, then realized I did it inside out. Had to call it for the night. Hoping to get everything but the cuffs done tomorrow. Might even finish it.
Jan 8, 2013, 12:52 AM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
So because I still hate the pants fabric I found and ultimately regret buying it, I'm hunting for a better option. I literally spent 4 hours today searching the web for it, to no avail. I do have this swatch, though, and I remembered that I have an orange fabric pen. It comes out a little bold....
Which is disappointing, because the actual Glen plaid pattern is actually really close, and the scale is only a little too small. Mainly it just sucks that this stuff is $18 per yard. My sister is stopping by Denver fabrics tomorrow and if she doesn't find anything better/cheaper, it's back to LA.
Jan 13, 2013, 2:41 AM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
You've got to love the LA garment district, where even the shop owners can't remember their own prices. I got 2 yards of the pants fabric for $14 a yard. I've decided to just use the fabric as is; the fabric pen made the stripes way too bold, and they actually show up very nicely from a distance because the eye blends the thin orange stripe with the surrounding white and makes a much wider faint orange stripe. It's also 100% wool and the perfect weight. I'm working on the pants pattern now, which started out as the pants from the Burda 7194 pattern, which also contains the basis for what will become my S5 Smith tweed jacket pattern. They're described as slim pants, but that's a gross mislabeling. These things are tighter in the legs than any of the skinny jeans I own. With some creative slashing and spreading, I'm widening them out to a normal fit, then I just have to lengthen the legs to make room for the cuffed hem and I'll be ready to cut the fabric.
I've also got the collar and sleeves sewn into the shirt. Now I just have to hem the bottom, attach the cuffs, and add buttons and button holes. I'm really not liking the interfacing available from Jo-Ann's, so next week I'll be going up to LA and stopping into B Black and Sons again to get shirt interfacing. If anybody has the good stuff, it's them. I'm holding off on the cuffs until I can re-interface them with that.
Oh, and I have the wig, although it needs a trim. I'll post a picture of that as well when I get around to posting other pictures.
Jan 14, 2013, 11:17 PM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
The pants pattern is taking more effort than I thought to get right. I've got it mostly figured out, now I'm just trying to get the circumference at the leg opening the right size. One final trace of the pattern should do the trick. While ironing the fabric though, I realized that there are some holes near the end, makes about 1/2 yard of it useless. I'll probably have to go get more when I'm up in LA again.
Jan 16, 2013, 3:46 PM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
Waistcoat fabric arrived. Pretty dang happy with it. Just need to pick up a fabric for the front facings and make a couple small edits to the pattern and I can sew it up.
Also, here's the test pair of pants I made.
Since this photo I've dropped the crotch 1.5", extended the fly to match, and taken in the outseams 2". I cut the pocketing last night, but wasn't feeling up to the real thing just yet. That will happen later today. On Friday I'll be going up to LA to get more fabric and interfacing for the shirt.
Jan 16, 2013, 5:24 PM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
Good thing I waited on the waistcoat pattern until I had the fabric in hand. The button placement matched up very well down the length of the front, but I did have to shorten the bottom by about half an inch, and the dart had to be moved in 1 cm and down 1 inch to match the plaid. Didn't end up having to add any material anywhere, so I don't even need to trace the pattern off, I just have to copy the changes over the the facing/liner.
Jan 17, 2013, 7:06 AM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
Being a huge Tom baker fan I am really looking forward to seeing this build. I am thinking about doing a build myself but finding the material is killing me at the moment. I have the scarf but I will need to make the rest of the costume.
Jan 17, 2013, 11:26 AM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
Not sure what material you're having trouble finding but if it's the check waistcoat then PM me.
Jan 17, 2013, 8:43 PM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
Could be the pants or the coat fabric. I found the pants fabric in a tiny shop in LA, and I never actually found screen accurate coat fabric, just a good lookalike that's a great fabric in its own right.
Jan 18, 2013, 3:43 AM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
Finding the material for the waistcoat has been my biggest hurdle at the moment. I am pretty sure that material is Stewart Fawn trade tartan in a houndstooth pattern. I am building a season 15 costume at the moment but will be looking to do a few different types I think.
Jan 18, 2013, 3:58 AM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
Then you'll want to talk to manofsteel25. I got my fabric from him, it was custom printed on velvet to match the original.
Also, got the backs of the pants cut. Getting more fabric tomorrow, as well as shirt interfacing.
Jan 18, 2013, 10:03 AM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
Maximus- when you're ready, talk to me, I had a custom run of that Waistcoat fabric made because like everyone else that stuff was never going to found on the bolt - and none of the custom tartans made-to-order I saw online were close enough. I've seen the repro next to patches of the original and we got it VERY close.
Jan 19, 2013, 2:58 AM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
Have you ever heard of Spoonflower.com? If someone hasn't already uploaded the correct print, you could always make a graphic of exactly what you're looking for and then just custom print it.
Jan 19, 2013, 4:20 AM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
I have my own shop on Spoonflower.
risu's shop on Spoonflower: fabric, wallpaper and wall decals
I believe it was discussed as an option, but the two big drawbacks are the lack of color saturation and velvet isn't a fabric option.
Anyhow, today I picked up more pants fabric, shirt interfacing, and brown poly/acetate for the waistcoat liner. Tomorrow is going to be a big work day, I'll hopefully be able to get the shirt finished and make some progress on the pants.
Jan 19, 2013, 9:39 AM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
Spoonflower is what I used to test print swatches of the pattern to make sure color and read was where I wanted it. But to get better saturation and be able to print on velvet I had to go to a local printer. A Cotton print of this will do the job though though it loses a little something - plus the pattern was just a giant headache and a half to get right which was one of the main holdups even doing the run. Spoonflower is a great resource but for some fabrics it's not quite suitable since they're limited to a range of cottons.
Jan 19, 2013, 6:47 PM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
As I've suspected for a while now, my sleeves are too short. What I didn't expect is that they're also too small in diameter, at least if I want to wear a watch. Tomorrow I'm going to pick up more weaver's cloth and make new cuffs to compensate for both, and I've already added length to my pattern. I'm glad I'm making all these mistakes on $4 a yard fabric instead of the custom printed stuff or worse.
Jan 19, 2013, 8:56 PM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
Yeah, I have noticed saturation issues. I posted a Hawaiian print up there and it's Tardis blue on dark blue, you can barely see the TARDIS hiding in it in real life, but it's perfectly clear in the graphic.
Also forgot that the fabric was supposed to be velvet. Cool that you found a local printer who can do it!
Jan 22, 2013, 1:33 AM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
Repatterned the cuffs and finally found the perfect interfacing (assuming it stays bonded through the wash). It's plain old medium weight heat n bond from Jo-Ann's. One cuff is on now, I'll probably do the second and maybe put some buttons on tonight. Pictures soon once the shirt is done, which will hopefully be tomorrow.
Jan 23, 2013, 11:07 PM - Re: Doctor Who - Tom Baker's S17 Frock Coat/Costume
I spent a few hours casting buttons this morning. The mold is toast, I have to sit and hold the sides together while the resin cures, which takes about half an hour each. I'm probably going to try and cast one more to replace the lighter brown one, then paint the color variations on.
And the waistcoat pattern is 100% complete.
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