Doc's foam work + The last foam painting method you will ever need.

Blackdynamo2 said:

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Great Job docholiday78, This build just gets better! and better! I know for me myself & people who get to witness this will be amazed at the end result? and when you post some full suit pics! You're doing a fantastic job keep up the good work.... Delray

Thanks Blackdynamo!

jrpage74 said:

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sorry...found my answer. I like the new finishing technique for more flexible parts. I can't wait to get to the point of finishing.

Thanks and I cant wait either

IronNeoo said:

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Hey Doc your 7 step method worked. I just did one pc to test it out, but the finish is smooth and did not have port holes from the foam. Thanks again bro! here is a pic of the results. I will be posting pics of my suit once I paint the whole suit.

Right on! your paint job looks awesome! glad it worked out for ya and looking forward to seeing your whole suit

mizuno hadouken said:

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Looking good!

Thanks mizuno!

Wow! This thread never ceases to amaze. So much so that I'm starting my own suit using this technique.

This is still going strong! Awesome work.

pinder91 said:

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Wow! This thread never ceases to amaze. So much so that I'm starting my own suit using this technique.

Cool n goodluck

STEALTH said:

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This is still going strong! Awesome work.

Thanks Stealth

sniggle said:

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Hey, hey guys!
Rondo'ed my helmet over the weekend, using Doc's method.
It went alright, but I'd thought I'd throw some tips out here.
Please correct me/add to it, if I'm wrong, Doc!

PLEASE, please -- to any of you thinking of using Rondo on your foam -- learn from my newbie mistakes:

- A little bit of Rondo goes a long way.
We poured a good third of the Bondo can into our first mix and ended up wasting ALOT.

- Use THIN coats!
This helps with sanding immensely.

- Use something to smooth the Rondo to make it even, as you go along.
In his thread, DocHoliday mentioned using a squeegie or some sort and old baseball cards.

- Work hastily, but with precision.
Rondo is already alot of sanding, but don't make it tougher on yourself.
If the Rondo mix starts to clump up at all, just STOP applying it.
We saw the Rondo starting to clump and kept going, assuming we would sand it out. --- It is an extremely tough job to do so. You could save yourself hours of sanding/dremeling if you just stop, mix up some new Rondo, then start again.

This is all a learning process --- there are going to be mistakes on your first time, but I wanted to throw these things out there, so hopefully I can help minimize some issues I had myself...


If anyone wants to see my own result, a link to my thread is in my sig.

This Is why I suggested to practice on a scrap piece to see how rondo works. You are right by sayin thin coats but your supposed to use a cheap throw away paint brush to put it on. Ive been reading alot of people sayin its hard to sand and its due to the type of bondo. It has to be lightweight body filler plus when putting on with brush ya cover the section then do one brush stroke and let rondo self level n do not I repeat DO NOT keep goin over it then it will stop the self leveling process and ofcourse youll have alot of sanding. So fight yr urges to try to get it smoother and leave it alone. For beginners dont try to cover a huge area start with small amounts for small section. Do not mix a huge amount of bondo and resin start with small amount till ya understand how it works. Thats why I came up with easier method for people having trouble with rondo. With my other 7 step method thats easier if ya do all seams right (unlike myself) lol will have nice finish.

I was using the lightweight body filler as suggested earlier, but I screwed up the application of the Rondo, itself D:
Me and a buddy mixed up a big batch and slathered that stuff on, sloppily, without smoothing --- thinking that we could sand out any imperfections...
That's true to an extent, but our poor Rondoing job left divots and uneven spots that just would not come out with any amount of sanding/dremeling

I'm seeing that Rondo can be a pain in the behind, but if patient and given enough work, it produces amazing result on foam
I'll be sure to apply the things I learned to my next attempt

thanks for the tutorials and tips -- I wouldn't have gotten this far without your valuable information!

sniggle said:

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Hey, hey guys!
Rondo'ed my helmet over the weekend, using Doc's method.
It went alright, but I'd thought I'd throw some tips out here.
Please correct me/add to it, if I'm wrong, Doc!

PLEASE, please -- to any of you thinking of using Rondo on your foam -- learn from my newbie mistakes:

- A little bit of Rondo goes a long way.
We poured a good third of the Bondo can into our first mix and ended up wasting ALOT.

- Use THIN coats!
This helps with sanding immensely.

- Use something to smooth the Rondo to make it even, as you go along.
In his thread, DocHoliday mentioned using a squeegie or some sort and old baseball cards.

- Work hastily, but with precision.
Rondo is already alot of sanding, but don't make it tougher on yourself.
If the Rondo mix starts to clump up at all, just STOP applying it.
We saw the Rondo starting to clump and kept going, assuming we would sand it out. --- It is an extremely tough job to do so. You could save yourself hours of sanding/dremeling if you just stop, mix up some new Rondo, then start again.

This is all a learning process --- there are going to be mistakes on your first time, but I wanted to throw these things out there, so hopefully I can help minimize some issues I had myself...


If anyone wants to see my own result, a link to my thread is in my sig.

sniggle said:

---

I was using the lightweight body filler as suggested earlier, but I screwed up the application of the Rondo, itself D:
Me and a buddy mixed up a big batch and slathered that stuff on, sloppily, without smoothing --- thinking that we could sand out any imperfections...
That's true to an extent, but our poor Rondoing job left divots and uneven spots that just would not come out with any amount of sanding/dremeling

I'm seeing that Rondo can be a pain in the behind, but if patient and given enough work, it produces amazing result on foam
I'll be sure to apply the things I learned to my next attempt

thanks for the tutorials and tips -- I wouldn't have gotten this far without your valuable information!

lol ive tried that too but hey thats how you learn....if ya have any other questions dont hesitate to ask. if I can help to make it easier let me know ill be glad to help

Anxious to see where you're at all together! You've been spending a lot of time helping all of us with our process, it'll be great to see how far into the build you've gotten and how its all looking! This thread is immensely helpful by the way, thank you for being so thorough!!

Question: is it suppossed to be specifically the triple thick clear glaze at the end of the process that makes it flexable. Followed every step so far with at least 3 coats of everything except the paint (one so far). I was just looking at the bicep while taking the tape off that I had put on for the gold and the red cracks if I squeeze it.

Used hair dryer for heat seal
using 3 mm foamies from hobby lobby
Modpodge matte
Plastidip
adhesive promoter 'duplicolor'
filler primer 'duplicolor'
Dark Cherry metallic 'duplicolor'
Sunburst Gold metallic 'duplicolor'

Im not upset and I realize results may vary. Just askin

Hey Doc, what paint (red) are u using? My red isnt laying right. Help?

IronNeoo said:

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Hey Doc, what paint (red) are u using? My red isnt laying right. Help?

its metallic cherry red duplicolr.

Srry no updates just alot of craps been happining, like my work truck broke down n had to fix it this weekend. And I think I need to take a break for a little bit to get that fire back to doing it cuz right now no motivation,short fuse n short on funds. my stupid truck cleand me out, srry guys ...,

docholiday78 said:

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its metallic cherry red duplicolr.

Thanks man!!

This looks awesome, thanks for the tips and tutorials. So what exactly is what is making it flexible without cracks? Is it the adhesion promotor, glaze?

l330n said:

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This looks awesome, thanks for the tips and tutorials. So what exactly is what is making it flexible without cracks? Is it the adhesion promotor, glaze?

No prob n i dont know but it works

Freaking awesome battle damage!
Lovin' it.

Nice! Damage looks killer

amazing

PepIronman said:

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Freaking awesome battle damage!
Lovin' it.

thanks man

l330n said:

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Nice! Damage looks killer

thank ya

firebapx said:

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amazing

thanks firebapx

Helagak said:

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hey doc, your suit looks amazing! I am going out this weekend to get the stuff to try rondoing my suit.
I know i read it in this thread, but scanning back thru, I cant find it. what colors did you use? Your colors are perfect. I really like that gold color
red= Duplicolor Dark Metallic Cherry
gold= ???



haha thanks.

*edit* never mind, I couldnt find it because I read it on the last page!

"Dark Cherry metallic 'duplicolor'
Sunburst Gold metallic 'duplicolor'"

thanks dude. actually the gold is valspar metallic gold from lowes, it was the only gold that i actually liked. yr reason for editing hilarious

That looks awesome!!! Keep it up.

Doc you can't see it but I'm clapping my hands, good job.