Darkside says to use the MK VI neck and brace as it's very similar for now, but he is making a MK VII neck and it will be released with the v2 files (in a few months).MonteStark said:
Darkside says to use the MK VI neck and brace as it's very similar for now, but he is making a MK VII neck and it will be released with the v2 files (in a few months).MonteStark said:
I was having the same exact problem but with foam, made like 4 different scale biceps n just didnt feel right. So I decided to scratch build my arms cuz da design is now tattoed in my brain lol...no biggie DarksideDasHHat said:
I've got a discussion topic for you guys:
Is FOAM easier than CARDSTOCK?
I ask, because when the v2 files are uploaded, i was thinking of trying my hand at a Foam Suit.
Have you guys tried to do BOTH kinds of costumes?
foam is much more easier than cardstockSyrus54 said:
Foam is infinitely easier than card stock. I spent hours and hours and hours pepping card stock files then countless hours resining, fibre glassing, body filling, sanding. I just gave up after about 6 months and threw it all away. I have since built and entire iron man and war machine in foam, total hours would equal that of 3 weeks working in spare time. Nothing would make me go back to card stock now.
although foam is much easier, i just prefer cardstockSyrus54 said:
been having a blast pepping all those tiny details in the hands
I believe foam is much MUCH easier and faster, but you don't get the detail you do with cardstock and body filler.Syrus54 said:
Alrighty, where are you guys getting your foam? I'm thinking of using 1/8" thick sheets, because DON ROBERTS seems to have alot of success with it.
I dont want to use those 1/2" exercise mats with the Diamond Plate texture on them.
Well, i got bored and decided to pick up the foam and glue.
I hope im doing the right thing here, switching from Paper to Foam.
Set me back $9, so it's already costing MORE than Paper... WAY More.
Question Though, should i scale the paper that I print out, that i'll trace the shapes onto the foam with, LARGER or keep them the same?
I transferred the paper to thin cardboard (note, the Cardboard is thinner than the foam i bought), and the cardboard made the piece tighter-fitting, so I assume I should make the piece LARGER for foam.
Here's the Cardboard Helm (Smaller than Cardstock):
My Foam Edit:
The Cardstock Helm was Scaled on the Computer at 175mm Width. When made out of Cardstock, final width was 155mm.
When I used the Cardstock paper template to transfer to Cardboard, it came out as 130mm Width. We're talking about a 1.5 inch size decrease from PC to Finished Product.
So, i have the Helmet scaled on the PC at 195mm... Should that be enough?
Last edited by Syrus54; Jun 26, 2012 at 8:18 AM.
Hi guys,
Just want to thank darkside501st and his team for all the hard work they have put in recreating this awesome armour set.
Im in the UK and have decided to give this build a go. Im a bit of a newb and this is my first pep project.
I have almost finished making the helmet out of carboard and its proved a bit of a mission, as cardboard is really difficult to fold!?!? However its more or less done apart from the eye sockets, as I cant work them out! haha
I've given that a bit of a break and have started on the chest, for the chest ive started using a material similar to sintra, its card on both sides and foam in the middle, and yet again its proving pretty difficult to fold, but easy to cut and very robbust.
as you can see here its looking good!
However im really concerned that (after struggling with glues) ive decided to use a LOT of celtape. Please dont hate me too much for cutting corners. My question is, will I have issues with the resin now as there is so much tape? and has anyone heard of resining sintra?
I'm in the UK also, I've now finished building the entire upper half of the suit using the thickest paper they had available in Staples. Its 160gsm from the normal paper section. It's pretty thick, cheap, easy to fold using a hard object such as a thin metal ruler and easy to cut :PSpineRipper said:
Hi guys,
Just want to thank darkside501st and his team for all the hard work they have put in recreating this awesome armour set.
Im in the UK and have decided to give this build a go. Im a bit of a newb and this is my first pep project.
I have almost finished making the helmet out of carboard and its proved a bit of a mission, as cardboard is really difficult to fold!?!? However its more or less done apart from the eye sockets, as I cant work them out! haha
I've given that a bit of a break and have started on the chest, for the chest ive started using a material similar to sintra, its card on both sides and foam in the middle, and yet again its proving pretty difficult to fold, but easy to cut and very robbust.
as you can see here its looking good!
However im really concerned that (after struggling with glues) ive decided to use a LOT of celtape. Please dont hate me too much for cutting corners. My question is, will I have issues with the resin now as there is so much tape? and has anyone heard of resining sintra?
I don't think resin will be very happy with the plastic selotape no :/
No idea about sintra though
Here's a link: Multicopy A4 - 160 gsm - 250 Sheets - Staples
Hope this helped
Yeah... im on a bit of a budget so im getting all my stuff free from work haha. Also, sintra is pretty robbust and really light, which means it retains its shape really well and has a good degree of bend.
Im tempted to use cardstock then spesh if you say its cheap.
DasHHat Its good to meet someone from the UK! the materials people use in the USA seem different to the stuff available over here, its handy to have someone to discuss stuff with lol
Do you know what youre going to be using for filler? Some people have used some stuff from halfords, car body repair filler or something similar, im guessing it will need to be flexible so it doesnt crack...
I hope my polyutherane resin doesnt melt the foam either, most chemicals dont mix well with foam either
Yeah, Americans just use flat weight to describe paper thickness by arbitrary amounts, very confusing initially! Haha!SpineRipper said:
I was considering halfords as well, but my first bet was eBay and buying the cheapest body filler available. you can get a good tub of it for around £10.
beware of a 'budget'; spray paint at £7 a can and we'll need about 4-5 in varying coloursResin will be around £15, fibreglass will be £5+, chicago screws, buckles, velcro, straps. It's going to break £40 easily :/ (depending on what you get free of course :P)
The foam i'm using is 1/8" thick roughly...
Kinda weak, so what I did was put my Cardboard template underneath it.... I wonder if anyone has made a Cardboard/Foam combo suit before.
Mabey i'll just go ahead with the thick exercise foam mats.... expensive though, means I'm gonna have to rob a bank 1st.
If You guys dont hear from me, send me a letter, C/O the Warden at the prison i'll be at.
hey guys, i just started the body filler stage on my helmet, and i was wondering how much time are you guys getting to spread the bondo on. This is my second helmet and i still have the same container of bondo to work with, but it seems like i'm not getting enough working time out of it. i only get like 4 or 5 minutes before the bondo starts getting crumbly and unspreadable, and i've wasted a lot because of this. Also, ive been using the recommended amount of hardener until recently i started using less than recommended but i'm still having the same problem.
so, do i have a bad can of bondo or am i just not working fast enough?
I got another parts question...fingers...now im sure they are all the same...but I cant seem to find files for them...are they just such a basic shape that a file really isnt needed?
Hi guys been watching this thread for awhile it is very inspiring so i had to make one haha! just want to say THANKYOU! darkside501 and the other VIPs that helped unfold the files and convert the files to foam here's my progress on the mark vii suit foam.
Good lines, beautiful work!Joshturismo said:
Hi guys been watching this thread for awhile it is very inspiring so i had to make one haha! just want to say THANKYOU! darkside501 and the other VIPs that helped unfold the files and convert the files to foam here's my progress on the mark vii suit foam.
how are you joining the finger pieces together?
That is amazing, keep up the good work.Joshturismo said:
Hi guys been watching this thread for awhile it is very inspiring so i had to make one haha! just want to say THANKYOU! darkside501 and the other VIPs that helped unfold the files and convert the files to foam here's my progress on the mark vii suit foam.
Tell me about it I spent 38 hours doing my pep helmet (Yes, I'm writing done the hours I put in) and I'm working on the chest of my Mark 6 (6.5 hours so far maybe 1 more hour and I'll be done) and I'm getting faster on working with card stock and a hot glue gun but after work I work on it and I just end up really tired everyday but looking forward everyday to get my peps done so I can start the resin but I'm not quitting I really want this done with card stock, foam to me seems just too weak and won't give me the armor feel I want when I'm done.7sinzz said:
there is a link to them on the first page and right here: http://www.therpf.com/f24/zabana-s-i...ml#post1638276 . they go with zabana's hand fileMonteStark said:
Well, I could make the small changes if someone would want to go back and unfold it for me. I just don't have time to go through the whole process.dannifood4less said:
No problem, thanks for the compliment.Bergerman said:
I have not made the Mk VII neck file yet. DasHHat is correct I recommend the Mk VI neck for now... it is very similar and nobody would notice it is not the right one.MonteStark said:
What other files were you trying to download? Where they Mk VII files?
Yeah, if you use the stock scales on the arms they will appear to be more bulky than the movie suit... that is my bad. The arms were the first parts I modeled and since I was going piece by piece I didn't have the rest of the suit to get the scaling right and so they are bulkier than they should be. This is one of the reasons I am modeling the whole suit before I release the version 2 files. Also, note that good reference materials were not available at the time I modeled the version 1 suit so I did not know the handplate was supposed to fit in with the forearm... that is something new to this suit. I designed it to rest on top of the forearm much like the Mk III. If you use the version 1 files you will have to modify the handplate and the forearm to get it to fit together. The forearm is made in two pieces so that it will adjust to the length of your arm. It can 'telescope' out to become longer. Also, if you do not make the upper forearm the same scale as the biceps then you will have trouble getting them to fit together. Hope that helps.DasHHat said:
You should do one area at a time... don't try to cover the whole piece with bondo. The setting time will depend on how much hardener you use but also depends on the temperature outside. If it is really hot then it will set pretty fast but if you don't use enough hardener then it will take a really long time to cure and in some cases it may not fully cure and then it will gum up your sandpaper. It is best to do the bondo and resin work at temps between 70 and 80 degrees so that you get the longest set time to work with it. Wake up early in the morning and get going before it gets hot.ShockBlade501 said:
There are finger files... not sure if anyone has converted them to foam templates. The pepakura files are Zabana's and I linked to them in the first post.MonteStark said:
Wow, that suit looks great! Thanks for reading my thread and posting here.Joshturismo said:
In my pepakura gauntlet I originally glued little brass or copper tubes inside the fingers and ran some fishing line through them... it worked great and the movement was awesome. Although, after a while the tubes chewed through the fishing line so instead of having to replace the fishing line I just removed the tubes and glued the fishing line inside the fingers. This worked too but the movement doesn't look quite as mechanical as it did before.MattCorneIM said:
Reply with Quote
