TOS Enterprise: 18" AMT - Re-Builds

saarno

saarno

Active Member
Hello everyone,

I just joined this forum in May, 2010 and wanted to start a new thread.

I will be posting images of modeling work I am doing to re-build 3 old AMT 18" models of the TOS E. They were originally built by me as a kid back in the '70's. Two look relatively good, but need new decals and repairs. The third is what I call a beater and was the first one I built. Horrible job by my standards now, but not for when I was 7 - lol!

I'd be interested to get other opinions on the models, and of anyone who also has the same size TOS E. I will be adding pics this week.

As I have not done any modeling in almost 20 years, I'm getting my skills back. Eventually, I'll pick up a 33" with greater accuracy.


- Scott
 
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initial pics - I started the work before I decided to document it in detail. I'm taking consistent perspective images now and will keep track of the steps. This is a first look of what it used to look like.
 
I've been working on the re-issue of this kit as a 'warm-up' kit to better prepare me for the 1/350 refit build.
So far, I've been doing quite well - I'm really taking my time so I can learn to use pro-modeling tools and techniques - puttying, sanding and painting.
I bought another one of the kits (thankfully my hobby shop had them on sale) and I already started 'bashing' it to make a custom 'USS KELVIN' 60's style - but that's on the backburner for now.
So far, I'm in the priming stage. The Tamiya primer I bought was well worth the money, and I will be using Model Master's Light Sea Gray for the overall color of the ship.
I will post some pics of my progress this week...
I look forward to seeing how you are doing with your builds!
-jimmy
 
I've built more then a few 18" kits in my day. My last build from 12 years ago is still sitting in my display cabinet. The seam on the secondary hull can be addressed easily by gluing in a strip of styrene on the backside of the spine to give it a much better gluing surface. Fix that and the pylons are less likely to droop. gluing a piece of coarse sandpaper to one side of the glue tabs on the pylons themselves also results in a much tighter fit in the slots, so they are more resistant to drooping as well. As for the saucer, a .040" thick shim of styrene to the front of the center connecting pylon also helps to angle up the saucer ever so slightly to bring it in line with the secondary hull.
 
My first REAL attempt at building a model kit using patience and pro-methods and materials.
This is my warm-up kit to prepare me for the 1/350 refit.
So far, all is ready for the first coat of gloss in order to prepare for decalling.
Glued with 'same-stuff' microweld, primered with Tamiya Light Gray, puttied with a variety of materials to get rid of all those terrible 1960 kit engineering seams: Aves Putty, autobody filler and Mr.Surfacer 500. Final paint color applied is ModelMaster Light Sea gray.
Here we go...be gentle, it's my first time!
DSC_0679.jpg

DSC_0678.jpg

DSC_0034.jpg

classicprimer-1.jpg

DSC_0078.jpg

paintedclassic3-1.jpg

paintedclassic-1.jpg
 
Your progress looks great. I'll be going through the same steps on the same kit once my warm-up is done. I did attempt to use 'Great Stuff' foam to fill the seams. It does fill and expand well, but once sanded, the seams still are visible. So, I'll be trying an automotive bondo mixture next and seehow it does.
 
Bondo and Mr Surfacer did a great job - I was really worried about those seams but I learned a lot from this little kit.
 
Thats just it, the kit has its flaws. But, if you learn to tackle them, it results in a very satisfying model building experience IMHO.
 
I've put updates up on my site. Looks better than I thought it would. Still have to r-do the secondary hull seams w/Bondo. Done some trials with decal placement and window using Photoshop before I finalize them.

Comcast
 
saarno said:
I've put updates up on my site. Looks better than I thought it would. Still have to r-do the secondary hull seams w/Bondo. Done some trials with decal placement and window using Photoshop before I finalize them.
Click to expand...
Awesome restoration job! :thumbsup

I'd hold on to that model if I were you.


GeneralFROSTY said:
... Final paint color applied is ModelMaster Light Sea gray...
Here we go...be gentle, it's my first time!
paintedclassic-1.jpg
Click to expand...
Actually it is a nice clean build... and a nice choice of color. :thumbsup
 
I just found mine from when I was a kid (in a box). One warp engine, the sensor disk etc are broken off, but very fixable. My father had painted it for me so it really isn't that bad of a build. I look forward to fixing it up and displaying it once I move. I also found incomplete models of the Galileo shuttle and the bridge. :)
 
I can't do any painting today (Sunday). Had a serious rain last night and the humidity is way up. Think I'll start some piece fitting and burr sanding on the new kit. Going to go very slow on it. Looking at the upper saucer piece, I do miss the grid lines from the older kits, but do admit that the smooth finish gives a better sense of scale, and will be a better base for the decals.
 
Shaw said:
Awesome restoration job! :thumbsup

I'd hold on to that model if I were you.


Actually it is a nice clean build... and a nice choice of color. :thumbsup
Click to expand...

Ditto - looks nice and solid. The choice of sea grey will make it look more realistic and smoother. will photograph well, too. no harsh flarebacks with the camera flash.
 
All the paint work done - ready for pre-decal gloss followed by decalling, post-decal gloss then the final dull coat finish.
I used a pearl orange for the tips of the necelles and I am quite happy with how they turned out.
DSC_0065.jpg

classic2.jpg

classic3.jpg

classic1.jpg
 
The nacelle color does look nice!

One thing I will say is the decals in the CURRENT kit are WAY better then what we had years ago. Only other sheet I've used that was similar was the Shane Johnson designed sheet from Decalex as it also had decal windows on it. It provided the first inspiration for all the aftermarket Trek sheets that came after it.
 
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