TOS AMT/ERTL 18 inch Enterprise Custom Build

spacerone

Anyone like to participate in building the TOS AMT/ERTL 18 inch Enterprise with or without working lights? We can start at anytime with a new model kit and share ideas and photos on the build to learn from each other. You can even post some of your pics of a completed TOS AMT/ERTL Enterprise you have already built to show some previous work that will give us new builders an idea.

trekman1017

Even though this kit has a lot of flaws I still believe it is a very nice version of the ship.

spacerone

I agree with you and I think I will start this week and build this up with some electronics to give it some life.

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division 6

If it's one of the newer releases from the last few years you'll have some putty work ahead on both the secondary hull and warp nacelles.

You will have to fill the 3 dimples on the bottom of the saucer.
The newer one with decals for 3 versions doesn't have decals for the 2 triangle sensor things on the bottom of the saucer either, easy enough to mask and paint or you can get aftermarket decals, many have those parts.
There is also and issue with the connection between the neck and saucer that will require some trimming and putty work.

I have 3 that are about 2/3rds done (CA, DD, SC) still need to get another one for the tug.

I ended up scribing the grid on the saucers so I didn't have to pencil them in later.

spacerone

Thanks for the info, this particular box is dated 1989. I was thinking just to remove the grid lines and leave it a smooth surface. But right now I need the grid lines for a reference to cut out the four square top saucer lights. I did notice the gap at the neck that will have to be filled to get a solid connection look to it. I might fill the three dimples on the bottom but not sure yet. I also will use after market decals. I plan on painting the ship.

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division 6

The newer version (Round 2 - 2008) don't have the raised grid like the older ones did, they are smooth accept for the windows and a couple rings on the bottom of the saucer.

If you haven't looked at it yet there is a thread in Studio Scale that has lot's of pix of the 11' filming model and restoration for the Smithsonian.

spacerone

Thanks, I will take a look at it. I'm almost finished with the top saucer section sanding and window making. It may not be exact but it still looks good. I will show a picture in a little while of the top saucer, let me know what you think about it.

Shaw

I have a spare Round 2 re-issue that I've been using for comparative purposes in my study of a 1966 original issue 18 inch model. So in a few weeks I'll be able to start considering what to do with it (I hate to see any model left unbuilt).

I was thinking about doing a production version of the 11 foot model, so these are the parts I was considering getting...

18" TOS Bussard Collectors (JT Graphics part JTR-033)... $20.00
650 Scale TOS End Caps - Production (JT Graphics part JTR-025)... $4.00
650 scale TOS Deflector set (JT Graphics part JTR-P06)... $12.00
650 Scale TOS Planetary Sensor (JT Graphics part JTR-029)... $5.00
650 Scale TOS Control Reactors (JT Graphics part JTR-030)... $5.00
Accurate Part's TOS 18" Bridge (Federation Models part AP-1)... $3.00
Accurate Part's TOS 18 Series B/C Deck (Federation Models part AP-20)... $6.00
Accurate Part's TOS 18" Flux Chillers (Federation Models part AP-5)... $3.00

Though I might use these pieces from DLM Parts...

18 Inch Enterprise Series Production Bridge and AB Decks (DLM part DLM-25-SP)... $12.50

I was considering building my own primary hull based on the 11 foot model (like I did for my last Enterprise model based on the original 33 inch model).

Additionally, I might need to alter the length of the secondary hull a little in the process, and I'll definitely be changing the attachment points of the supports to the nacelles. In the end I'll need to take some additional time to consider where the kit deviates from the 11 foot model and make more detailed plans as to how to proceed after that.

For those wanting to see an extensive re-working of an 18 inch kit, there is a good step-by-step article over at Thomas Models site (here).

spacerone

Here is the finished top saucer with the grid lines removed and cut outs for the lights and extras. Let me know what you think.

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spacerone

Thanks for the links and info. I plan on lighting this model up, I just put up a picture of my finished top saucer section with the cut out windows and stuff. Check it out and let me know what you think. I also just got my electronic parts in today that I ordered a little while ago from a guy who sells them mostly put together. This will help save me some time on this project.

division 6

Nice clean work.

spacerone

Thanks, the windows are difficult to make but it will be worth it when the ship is powered up with lights.

FlyingDachshund

I have one of the R2 reissues and the thing holding me back from starting is that I really don't like the LED spinner effect that most available lighting kits incorporate into the design. There are photo-etched fan blades for the bussard collectors and tiny 60rpm gear motors out there that could be used to replicate the original effect in this scale, but I've never seen a premade random flasher circuit or simple schematics (I'm a complete electronics newb, they would have to be simple...) that looked the part. Anyone have any ideas on that score? The closest I've seen recently is a hacked Muji Christmas tree with LEDs driven by a 4060b cmos, but the flash rate is a bit too fast...

Mark in Okinawa

spacerone

Hi mark, don't know. But maybe I will post a short video of the small round ciruit board I have with the rotating leds in action if you want to see it.

FlyingDachshund

Don't get me wrong, I've seen some amazing things done with that kind of board - here's an example. That's the way I'd go if I ever gave up on replicating the actual effect, but it should be possible to really nail the bussard collectors at this scale without having to squint a bit to make it look right. Knowing that and pulling it off are two different things I guess!

Mark in Okinawa

spacerone

Shaw or anyone do you know what would be the best way to seal up the windows.

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spacerone

Your welcome! Thats what this thread is for to learn and get vital information from everyone for the building of the 18 inch AMT Enterprise. So keep the questions and answers coming.

ZOMBIEREPELLENT

I've heard of people using scotch tape and clear epoxy for sealing windows.

spacerone

Thanks Zombierepellent, I will look into the clear epoxy stuff for the windows.

spacerone

For those interested, here is a picture of the before and after work done to one of the engines. This is the first primer result, it still needs a little work.

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ZOMBIEREPELLENT

Did you taper the nacelles? I've seen someone on finescale several years ago do it with a band saw and some putty

spacerone

No, they were just glued together then sanded smooth to remove the seams.

FlyingDachshund

For those, like me, who lament the lack of a more accurate effect for the bussard collectors - check this out. It was posted in this thread over in the Trek modeling forum at Starship Modeler by a guy going by the handle "No_6". This is the closest I have ever seen anyone get - very impressive!

Mark in Okinawa

spacerone

Does anyone know which glue is the best to use for a strong bond and quick drying?

division 6

There are solvents that melt the plastic together like Tenax7, I use the generic version by Micro Mark.

It evaporates quick and melts fast but full set up time tends to take a while.
If I want something fast I just use CA.