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10-02-2003, 03:36 PM
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#51 |
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 1,641
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I would love to see your pics.
I can't get the link to work. |
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10-31-2003, 05:44 AM
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#52 |
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Augusta, Ga.
Posts: 649
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Our fanforce website went down a few months ago, and when it was put back up the pics were lost. I now have them on my website at http://www.bluestarwizard.com in the gallery. Sorry for not answering sooner.
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11-17-2003, 09:41 AM
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#53 |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 498
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Greetings! I've lurked these forums for a while, and now I have a question.
I have the Falcon Kits conversion kit. I want to get started on this beast, but I'm not sure of the best way to replace the photo-etched engine grills. What is the best way to remove the existing parts and to attach the PE vents? I have decent modeling skills, but am a little afraid of this modification. Help me! Please! The people around here always amaze me with their skills and desire to help. Thanks in advance! |
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11-17-2003, 11:47 AM
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#54 |
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Langhorne, PA - just outside of Philadelphia
Posts: 1,596
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Like any queston that basically asks whats the best way to do XYZ, there can be as many answeres as you ask people. With that in mind other peoples opinions are often better then mine but here's what I recommend [img]images/smiles//icon_wink.gif[/img]
Go to the harware store or hobby shop and find a very thin fine toothed jigsaw blade. In hobby shops they are often called hobby saws or something similar. The blade should be long thin, and pretty flexible. sometimes they come with a handle but for this particualr cut ot gets in the way (in my opinion). Start by drilling a hole large enough that the saw blace fit inside in the engine "vent area". Close to the edge but NOT at it. insert the saw in the hole and start to saw in a direction TANGENT to the side of the circle where the hole was, as you get close to the edge force the blade to curve along the inner portion of the vent. Continue around until you come back to the point where you first came to the inner edge. Don't worry if you accidentally go over the edgea little bit, or if you haven't take quite enough off. We can fix that in the next couple of steps. After you have a rough opening take some sandpaper or some fairly small files and remove any additional styrene until the hole is the needed size. Take Putty and fill in any places where you've cut too much, place a small drop at each place and roughly push it into the over cuts. Let it dry, then sand it to the correct shape. I like to use autobody "glazing putty" ($1.99 at pep boys) but if you've got a favorite go right ahead [img]images/smiles//icon_wink.gif[/img] really I think the trick is to find the flexible saw blade that will allow you to turn the cut along the inside of the vent area. The blade I use was for a hand jigsaw, its about 6" long, 1/4" wide and has a ton of fine teeth. I've tried using a dremel for this kind of stuff but I find that it melts the styrene instead of cutting it - which leads to noxious smoke and a very rough edge semicut/molten edge. Good Luck, Jedi Dade |
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11-17-2003, 12:44 PM
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#55 |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 498
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Quick response!
I'm on my way, thanks so much! |
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11-17-2003, 05:21 PM
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#56 |
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Langhorne, PA - just outside of Philadelphia
Posts: 1,596
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PLease let me know how it turns out.
Jedi Dade |
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11-18-2003, 08:48 AM
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#57 |
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Toronto
Posts: 1,689
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Wonderful thread you guys have going here.
I've been holding back on doing my Falcon models (and with Jedi Dade talking about a kit, I may hold off longer) Just note that in the directions for cutting out the back grills it was mentioned that the dremel melted the styrene, that would be because it was running to fast. Just my 2¢ |
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11-19-2003, 02:27 AM
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#58 |
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Langhorne, PA - just outside of Philadelphia
Posts: 1,596
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My dremel has a variable speed setting and it was as slow as it goes ;( if it works for you though...More pawer to you!
Jedi Dade |
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11-27-2003, 07:08 AM
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#59 |
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Kenosha , WI
Posts: 1,137
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Looking to paint up my MPC Falcon, after I apply the Falcon kit details [img]images/smiles//icon_smile.gif[/img] what is the best color scheme [img]images/smiles//icon_confused.gif[/img] is there a ready made paint available [img]images/smiles//icon_confused.gif[/img]
Regards, aljf [img]images/smiles//icon9.gif[/img] |
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11-28-2003, 11:09 AM
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#60 |
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Langhorne, PA - just outside of Philadelphia
Posts: 1,596
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ready made paint - well not as a kit that says - this is for the falcon bu there are a wide variety of very good premixed paints to select from. This place is a good one for me
http://www.hobbylinc.com/index.html As for the colors to get... it really comes down to what you think is right - there is no definitive color scheme that I know of. The base is an off white/super light gray color - after that you'll need several shade of gray ranging from light to fairly dark, s bit of dark red, flat regular red, and a bunch of the typical weathering colors. pretty much its a trial and error thing, until you like the way it looks [img]images/smiles//icon_wink.gif[/img] Jedi Dade |
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02-23-2005, 12:36 AM
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#61 |
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 36
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Since this thread was mentioned elsewhere, I thought I'd post my question here rather than there just to keep most of this information in one spot...
Ok, we know the ERTL falcon side walls need to be lowered and the cockpit tube needs to be enlarged. The problem with enlarging the cockpit tube is, IMO, that the hull is too flat making this modification look a bit off when it really isn't. I've seen on Tim Ketzer's site where he increased the thickness of the hull at the center to fatten his ship up a bit, but from what I can see that results in docking arms that slope downwards from the center toward the outer edge which is also incorrect. My question is, could it be that the hull doesn't need to be thickened in the center at all but instead the hull surface needs to be curved from the center outward to meet the side walls? Can any of you Falcon experts confirm or disprove this theory for me? Would reproducing the correct curve result in a fatter appearance while preserving the alignment of the docking arms and improve the overall look when combined with the larger cockpit tube? If so, then what is the proper curve for the hull (I don't think I've seen that mentioned anywhere)? I'm aware that a lot of surgery would be necessary to make this work right... but it's ERTL - what else is new? [img]images/smiles//icon_wink.gif[/img] Mark Snyder Seoul, Korea |
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02-23-2005, 03:36 AM
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#62 |
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 67
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</SPAN><TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD CLASS=$row_color>
ViperRecon wrote:<HR></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS=$row_color> My question is, could it be that the hull doesn't need to be thickened in the center at all but instead the hull surface needs to be curved from the center outward to meet the side walls?</TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE><SPAN CLASS=$row_color> i am not sure i follow you here. Tim placed a tube in the center of his ertl falcon to raise the over all height and he replaced the sidewalls of the docking clamps as well to raise them. it looked pretty accurate to me. Bryan |
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02-23-2005, 11:19 AM
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#63 |
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 36
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Look at the line where the disk of the hull meets the wall of the docking arm on the ERTL kit. To me it appears that this line is mostly straight and flat from the gunwell opening outward and down to the sidewall.
Now look at the same line on either Falcon FX miniature - the line is more curved between those two points. Here's Tim's ERTL Falcon: http://www.ketzer.com/images/ERTL_side.jpg Here's his studio scale scratch-build from almost the same angle: http://www.ketzer.com/millennium_fal..._frontside.jpg I'm seeing a difference in hull contour between the two that is a function of how the ERTL kit was made. My thought is that the flatter cross section of the ERTL hull (as evidenced by the line I mentioned) is the larger part of the apparent hull thickness problem and that the hull is already thick enough after fixing the sidewall issue, just mis-shaped. Even Tim's ERTL model appears to have this flatter cross section (though I was unaware that he'd redone the docking arm walls). Substitute the word "angular" for "flatter" if that makes more sense, I may not be expressing myself well... A lot of work would be necessary to fix this, virtually all of the seams between the armor plated disk-shaped hull and any assemblies mounted on it would have to be altered including the upper and lower mandibles... Given all that, it's just a theory I'm trying to bounce off of all you good people who know a lot more about the Falcon than I do before I start making the alterations on my own ERTL Falcon project [img]images/smiles//icon_smile.gif[/img] What do you think? Mark Snyder Seoul, Korea |
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02-23-2005, 05:58 PM
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#64 |
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Langhorne, PA - just outside of Philadelphia
Posts: 1,596
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well that is the trouble with a project like this. A line needs to be drawn somewhere between super detailing and throwing your arms up in disgust and just building the thing over from scratch. To be honest I have seriously thought about cutting all of the hull radials line and reshaping it, I cam to the comclusion that if I was willing to go that far I might as well start from nothing an remaster an entire model. I;m not telling you not to do it - just explaining why I decided not to...
Good Luck either way, Jedi Dade |
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02-24-2005, 12:13 AM
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#65 |
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 36
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You make a good point... I would take it farther though. If I'm going to scratchbuild a whole new Falcon, then I might as well do it at studio scale. Now we're talking about a substantial investment not just in time, but in cash too. I've got plenty of time and very little cash so I'm back to looking at the ERTL kit again (or nothing at all). [img]images/smiles//icon_wink.gif[/img]
But it's not as difficult as it first appears. It wouldn't be necessary to cut all of the hull radials, for example. You just need cuts where the disk meets other structures molded into the hull in order to allow reforming to the new contour. Then you'd have to re-attach those structures and fill in any resulting gaps... Before I start any of that I just want to see if anyone thinks what I want to do will correct the problem I'm aiming at and what would the correct curvature be? It's very possible that I'm way off base or that the kit needs a combination of approaches to fix it, but I won't know for sure if I don't ask people more learned than myself! Mark Snyder Seoul, Korea |
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02-24-2005, 03:16 AM
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#66 |
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 67
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OK, i understand now. i agree that you come to a certain point that you either live with it or scratchbuild the falcon. i had hoped that raising the height of the center would give it more of a dish appearence. but looking at tim's scratchbuilt really shows this error. I am looking at tearing down my falcon to remove the cockpit tube to make a new one. i may even start over. i have falconkits sidewalls, but i am afraid of damaging them by tearing it apart. i may even remove the rear upper hull and scratchbuild it. then again, i may just leave as is and enjoy the effort i have put into it. it's a good thing it has been reissued. i may pick up another for a future super-detailed buildup.
Bryan |
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03-02-2005, 06:14 PM
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#67 |
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 36
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Wow, with all the collected talent on these boards and all the concentrated Millenium Falcon knowledge, no one can provide an answer to my questions? Everyone is pretty much just going to let the ERTL kit kick their butts? I don't believe it!
[img]images/smiles//icon_wink.gif[/img] Bump! Mark Snyder Seoul, Korea |
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03-16-2005, 07:55 PM
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#68 |
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Timmins, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 149
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Hey Mark!! How are things?? Been a long time, hope all is well.
Just thought I would pop in and say hello. Hello. OK. Gotta go now...  But seriously people... I was reading this thread again, after a very long time away from it. It's funny to see some of your personal past in print, on the web, FOREVER!!  Which brings me to my post. With the re release of the Falcon, I thought it a good idea to get my butt in gear and do a little re releasing myself. I think you will all be very pleased!! MMI-7777 |
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03-17-2005, 06:33 PM
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#69 | |
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,104
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Quote:
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03-17-2005, 09:52 PM
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#70 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Timmins, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 149
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Quote:
 The last batch I got done were just perfect. Better than I had expected. These will be of the same quality. This means that in a short while, ALL the PE products from MMI should be back. Along with a few new ones.  As for a guarantee, all I can offer is a full refund if there is a problem. |
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03-18-2005, 01:11 AM
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#71 | |||
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,104
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Quote:
Thanks! 
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03-19-2005, 07:47 PM
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#72 |
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,104
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John, one more question that kind of hit me.
Does "There were problems. They have all been solved, and will NEVER happen again." mean that you have a set on hand completed before you accept an order, or are you taking orders then making the set? Reason being, if you have the sets completed on hand at the time a sale is made, be it e-baby or any other way, it should arrive in the customers hands pretty quickly. If they are made after the order is taken up front, it will take longer to get a set to the customer, and may leave the customer open to unexpected delays, wether they are acts of God, material problems, or your team quitting unexpectedly. No offense, but I think if there were past problems filling orders these would be good questions to clear up. Thanks |
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03-19-2005, 08:22 PM
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#73 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Timmins, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 149
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Quote:
Hey!! That was funny. Geesh! <_< It's a good, and fair question/concern. While I do not have them in my hand, they do physically exist. I need the pre-orders to get them out of hock, so to speak. That is why the auction clearly states that they will not ship until April 18th. One week for the auction. One week to get all the payments in. One week to get them to me. One week to put all of the components together. Time for the unexpected is built in to the ship date. I mean, natural disaster, personal tragedy/injury... Hey! Things we can never control. I'm sure payment will be faster, that's why it's PayPal only. Shipping to me will be a few days, nothing I can do about that. As for putting them together... About 3 minutes per set. There is only four components to these. PE, resin, instructions, and the bag they come in. So... Does that help?? Again, money back guarantee. |
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03-20-2005, 07:45 PM
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#74 |
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 36
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Hi John, yes it has been a while hasn't it? Glad to hear things have turned around for you, I'll be keeping an eye out for cool new stuff!
That said, do you have any input on the current question at hand?  Mark Snyder Seoul, Korea |
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03-21-2005, 08:15 AM
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#75 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Timmins, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 149
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Quote:
Well, I am no expert on the Falcon, but... In my humble opinion... Just add Jacks Side Walls, our PE Grilles, and build one damn good looking Falcon model. 98% of the people looking at it won't know the difference, and those that do; ask them were THIER Falcon model is. You can go nuts trying to reconcile the differences between the miniatures (all 5 of them??), the full-size mock-up, which isn't full size, and what it SHOULD have been. You will never do it. The best way to get the most accurate, detailed Falcon is to start from scratch. Build everything yourself at the scale you think is best. For ease of parts, studio-scale. Just buy a Falcon off the shelf, add the detail sets, paint it well, and have the best looking Falcon around. |
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