Ralph Mcquarrie elegant millennium falcon

i would just stick it on there with superglue(do not thin with water) or epoxy. make sure you are not trying to glue on to paint or primer.
if not comfortable with a large surface and thin superglue, use the gel type.
personally i would epoxy it if its all one or 2 pieces
contact cement is good if you are redoing your 70's countertop formica or re-upholstering the headliner in your old car heh
 
Last edited:
Atesta said:
so I would just apply the bondo gold on my existing main body then apply the styrene on top of that ?
Click to expand...

I misunderstood your question, I thought you had trouble applying Bondo to styrene. For styrene on Bondo use CA or epoxy, either will work. But it won't bond to paint, so sand through any primer first.
 
propninja said:
...I use water thin superglue as a primer for Bondo. Just paint over styrene and the bondo will stick to that.
...
Finally I brush Water thin super glue over to seal and give it a nice candy shell. Or more correctly, acrylic shell.
Click to expand...

Atesta said:
Do you thin out the super glue with water? Have I got it right?
...
Click to expand...


He means that superglue (which is the same as CA, if you ever see that abbreviation, it means cyanoacrylate) comes in different viscosities. he's recommending you use the thin stuff, which runs and behaves like water does and will penetrates a porous surface like sanded Bondo (I've used the same technique to stiffen balsa.) as opposed to the thick stuff which is more of a gel which stays where you put it, not really soaking into surfaces.

You can't thin CA with water. The glue uses moisture to catalyze (that's how it cures on things, but not in the bottle) and it will use the water to cure just about instantly. I'm not aware of any good way to thin it, just buy it thin to begin with.

Be aware, if you do use thin CA to stiffen porous surfaces like this, do it in a well-ventilated area, as it will fume like mad, and the gases are somewhat toxic. But as long as you don't breathe them, you'll be fine.

--Alex
 
Albertese said:
He means that superglue (which is the same as CA, if you ever see that abbreviation, it means cyanoacrylate) comes in different viscosities. he's recommending you use the thin stuff, which runs and behaves like water does and will penetrates a porous surface like sanded Bondo (I've used the same technique to stiffen balsa.) as opposed to the thick stuff which is more of a gel which stays where you put it, not really soaking into surfaces.

You can't thin CA with water. The glue uses moisture to catalyze (that's how it cures on things, but not in the bottle) and it will use the water to cure just about instantly. I'm not aware of any good way to thin it, just buy it thin to begin with.

Be aware, if you do use thin CA to stiffen porous surfaces like this, do it in a well-ventilated area, as it will fume like mad, and the gases are somewhat toxic. But as long as you don't breathe them, you'll be fine.

--Alex
Click to expand...

Thanks, I should have been more clear about that. I'm too used to using the stuff that I forgot that everyone isn't as experienced with it as I and others are. Thinning super glue isn't necessary because it is available in varying viscosity's( thin as water to thick as gel). Having said that, the solvent of choice for superglue is acetone. Useful to know then you glue something to your fingers with the stuff, ask me how I know.
 
propninja said:
...
, the solvent of choice for superglue is acetone. Useful to know then you glue something to your fingers with the stuff, ask me how I know.
Click to expand...

Fun fact: If you don't want to wash your hands in acetone, you can just peel an orange! I discovered quite by accident that the oils in an orange peel quickly break down CA that has dried on your fingers. Really maul into the fruit and rub the oils between your fingers. It will feel gritty for a while, but keep rubbing and it'll all come off smooth. Weather or not you eat the orange after is up to you. It probably won't hurt you... probably.

--Alex
 
Albertese said:
Fun fact: If you don't want to wash your hands in acetone, you can just peel an orange! I discovered quite by accident that the oils in an orange peel quickly break down CA that has dried on your fingers. Really maul into the fruit and rub the oils between your fingers. It will feel gritty for a while, but keep rubbing and it'll all come off smooth. Weather or not you eat the orange after is up to you. It probably won't hurt you... probably.

--Alex
Click to expand...

Cool!! learned something new. But I don't think I'll be eating that orange :cool:
 
having another go at making the cockpit correctly. This time I created half first then made a mold of it. I will try to do the two halves then glue them together. plug 1.jpgplug 2.jpgmodl of new cockpit 1.jpgmold and plug cockpit.jpg
I have something called clear casting epoxy, I was thinking of using this and rotating the mold so that I get a thin walled cast. Then repeat to slightly build up the wall .I will need to make 2 pieces then cut out the windows glue them together and fit the interior. Anyone have any other ideas as to what I can use as a casting agent. I want to make a 1/32 to 1/16 max wall thickness. If I had a small vac form table I would have formed around the plug.

Let me know your thoughts . thanks
 
You could build your own vac form table in a day... I've invested about 6 hours and 30€ in total and never regretted it. Guess it would be a lot easier than to try casting thin walled parts in that quality.

This model is a very interesting project!
 
I did the drawings by myself. It's really simple, a wooden box with a tube for connecting a vacuum cleaner and a lot of small holes on top. The frame for the plastic is in my case also from high temperature resistent wood (at least to withstand 250°C), in the form of two rectangular plates with rectangular holes that fit exactly over the vacuum box. Both parts of the frames have holes for hexagonal bolts which are countersunk in one frame to make unscrewing easy. I'm heating the plastic in our regular oven, helt by the frame put onto cake forms. When the plastic sags, I turn on the vac cleaner, and get the frame out and over the vac former as soon as possible.

Of course it's not the most professional device, but better than nothing, and it does what I need. And really cheap, too.

If you find my description of the box and frame not clear enough, I can take some pics of it tomorrow with some measurements. It's really only 8 wooden parts, some bolts and nuts and a tube for the vac cleaner connection.

Thorsten
 
Here are two pictures, the first comes with all measurements. If I'd rebuild it, I would reduce the height of the box such that the volume which has to be evacuated is smaller. Also a guide for the frame would be nice to be added to ease the process.

If you have more questions, just ask! And I think here are people with much more experience in vac-forming which will perhaps give you better suggestions.

Thorsten

Vacformer02.JPGVacformer01.JPG
 
Hi Thorsten this is very helpful thanks for this.
I will give it a try and build one . I see what you mean about having a guide to place the try holding the plastic.

Thanks again
Anthony
 
plug 2.jpgplug for vacuum forming of cockpit.jpgMy 3rd attempt at making a proper cockpit for the falcon. This time I sculpted half then made resin plug, which I will vacuum form the 2 halves top and bottom , then cut out the window frames.engines dry fit 2.jpgengines dry fitting 1.jpgAlso put together the engines from what little we will see of them. Still I will add some details. Thought about adding a small probe in the center where the pin for the top and bottom is located. Its too long right now . It won't exceed the engine vanes.
 
falcon on base 2.jpgfalcon on base 3.jpgfalcon on base 4.jpg
Here is how I am planning to display the model .. I think the base will be black mabe with a mirrored surface or black with streaking stars

Now I need to figure out how to make the armature and out of what. I could use some suggestions

Thanks for checking it out .
 
OK , I have been refining bits and pieces of my falcon build , decided that I didn't like the communications dish so I made one from scratch20150301_075750.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Then I revisited the main guns and thought that mine were a bit too bulky , so re made a pair of blaster , old is on top new ones below20150301_080113.jpg20150301_075813.jpg
 
This thread is more than 5 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.

Similar threads

3Dsf
Researching the Millennium Falcon hold sets
Replies
9
Views
1,005
3Dsf
3Dsf
JV1138
Fine Molds 1:72 Millennium Falcon (Definitive 32" Paintjob)
2
Replies
37
Views
3,446
JV1138
JV1138
BB43MAN
The Millennium Kestrel: older Wonderfest build
2
Replies
24
Views
1,149
monsterpartyhat
monsterpartyhat
jamesjazznebula
Millennium Falcon - Docking Bay 94 Diorama - 1/241
Replies
5
Views
1,446
jamesjazznebula
jamesjazznebula
skahtul
Bandi PG Millennium Falcon, My Turn :) **WIP**
2
Replies
36
Views
3,059
skahtul
skahtul
Back
Top