Polar Lights 1/350 Star Trek Enterprise Question

I have been building this model. And other than installing the deflector dish in backwards (don't ask, no idea what to do about that), I painted the model gloss white, and now I am applying the aztec decals that came with the model. I didn't know pearl white had to be used UNDER these, I though it was a gloss that went over them. It's looking I will just have to use a gloss coat on the ship, and be done with it. Any advise as to how/if I can make any type of pearl gloss work? Has anybody else done this?

Building one of these too.

The dish can be popped back out by taking the front section off then pushing a cotton bud or similar through the little hole on the inner dome.

As for the decals, I am a long way off those but I understood that the ship should be painted gloss white then the decals applied, then certain sections hand painted with the pearl effect. If I am wrong about that then I will watch the answers to this question with great interest.

Pics would be nice.
I have this kit as well but wanted to paint it in tones of light grey not white.
I'm curious as to how it looks with the decals on a white base.

I was thinking the exact same thing as ob1al. Gloss white paint, aztec decals, pearlized paint highlights after decals.

Dave

We have an amazing hobby store in the area, it's really large and has been there for many years. The guy that works there doesn't think the clear pearl paint will stick to the aztec labels. And the instructions do say to use pearl white, then the aztec decals on top of that, and the pearl effect will show thru the aztec decals.

I have only been working on this for about 1 week, and I am almost done (probably why I glued the deflector dish backwards). But I am not installing lights. I will post some photos later tonight.

I also have not decided on using either a gloss or matt coat over the top when I am done. I have read it done both ways, but not sure what is best. The instructions seem strange, where they kind of say to use both.

Hmm. How do you mask the aztec decals when spraying the gloss white, if that's the last step?

EDIT: Sorry misread your post. So they're suggesting spraying the whole ship pearl white, then aztecs, then a matt or gloss seal coat. Will the final coat not negate the pearl effect? And will it look a bit odd with the non-aztec areas of the ship being pearl, rather than gloss white?

Gloss white isnt the way to go unless you want to make it looks like a toy.

Use a semi gloss white as a base coat. I would recommend model masters semi gloss white. Studio model was not based painted with any color, just white primer and highly polished with the aztec then laided down via airbrush.

All the painting should be done before laying down the decals.

The aztecing decals are really a "either or" option for the aztec detailing. Either paint it all or just a base white and then lay down the decals. It would be almost impossible to put masking over the aztec decals to lay down pearling without destroying the decals when trying to remove the masks.

I am in the middle of building this myself, lots of options to choose from in finishing.

I am using semigloss as a base, then using aztec dummies masks with a white pearl for those details. I have colored pearls I may use after this with custom cut friskets.. but will have to see if i have the balls and patience to go further using them.

Thanks for that. Is semi-gloss the same as satin?

I'm considering using this:

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_165505

The suggestion of GLOSS is so the decals lay down smooth.
Most aircraft modelers lay down a coat of Future floor wax (clear acrylic medium) for a smooth surface then gloss or dull coat once the decals are down.

Dull coat will negate the pearl effect.

Here are a couple links you might want to look at.
link
link

division 6 said:

---

.

Here are a couple links you might want to look at.
link
link

aside from being informative... Very moving.
Thanks for sharing

Tim, looking good mate. You've put the ship together amazingly quickly.

The lights are a major PITA, I half-wish I'd gone the same route as you, but I've started so I'll finish, as they say.

How easy are the decls to apply? Can you talk me through how you applied them, what works and doesn't work and so on? I've heard the PL decals can be a bit tricky and tend to fold up at the edges, did you find that? Did you use any kind of decal fix?

They have a very rubber like feel to them, and kind of thick. I only applied them with the old fashion method with water and a drop of soap. I used a solution that I picked up today called Solvaset, which is a decal setting solution. It didn't help much with the aztc decals. I tried it on the top of the saucer section and since I didn't get great results, I kind of loaded it on which worked a little better I just had to take my time on the top and work out the wrinkles and bubbles, cutting with a knife around the windows after I added each section of aztec decals.

What did you use to mask the windows when painting?

I didn't

I was going to use the liquid masking stuff, but since I am not putting in lights, I will be painting the windows a light blue, so no real need to mask them. This was one of the things I considered when considering lights or no lights.

Well, you get a cool Enterprise model in double quick time without any of the headaches. Nice one.

division 6 said:

---

The suggestion of GLOSS is so the decals lay down smooth.
Most aircraft modelers lay down a coat of Future floor wax (clear acrylic medium) for a smooth surface then gloss or dull coat once the decals are down.

Exactly right. Semi-gloss, satin, and matte/flat surface finishes are not shiny like a gloss surface because those paints create an irregular surface finish that does not reflect light the same as a gloss surface. Decals cannot adhere completely to this irregular surface because air gets trapped between the carrier film (the transparent part of the decal) and the irregular surface, which makes the carrier film visible (this is commonly known as "silvering").

The proper basic sequence is primer, paint with gloss paint (if possible; clearcoat with Future or other gloss clearcoat if necessary), apply decals, then apply gloss, semi-gloss, satin, or matte/flat clearcoat to achieve the desired surface finish. I say this is the "basic" sequence because detailing with paint or pastels (to achieve a weathered look, for example) may need to be done over the decals but before applying the final clearcoat. Also, most clearcoats will negate metallic effects, so that should be taken into consideration as well.

The decal setting solution called Solvaset actually ended up working pretty well. I just finished my ship (6 days from start to finish, but no lights), and I have to finish off the base tomorrow. I just kept adding the solution 3-5 times on wrinkles and it eventually got rid of most of them. I will post photos on my Facebook tomorrow after the base is done. You guys can check out the photos on my link in my above post. It's far from perfect, but it's done, and I still have hair left

I did manage to fix the deflector dish. I got a new one from the model company and used my dremel to grind out the old one. I am glad that's over

I found Solvaset really difficult to get hold of in the UK and most US suppliers won't ship this stuff overseas.....

However, i would highly recommend Micro Sol for the hull decals.....amazing stuff, and, just like Solvaset, (which i believe is a stronger solution) it will take several applications to get certain decals to behave.

Rich

Nice job, and so FAST!!!

SirJediKnightTim said:

---

My photobucket doesn't seem to be working, but I have been putting photos on my Facebook page. Building the NCC-1701-A Enterprise!! | Facebook

Er, I hate to bring this up... but is the saucer section really as saggy as it appears in the pics? It looks like it's really going to flop forward...

That Tamiya Pearl effect looks amazing