Been putting in the hours and I'm pretty much finished the electronics now. Thank goodness.
Also been starting to finish a few parts, like the deflector dish:
I utilised the 0.75mm masking tape to make the cream coloured lines, then gave them a coat of matt clear coat to seal them in place. I notice that the kit part has the lines going right to the edge, but the screen used lines stop a fraction short of the edge so I cut my tape that way. I used a fine brush to paint the ring around the dish - still more work to be done on this piece. This build sure takes a long time, every part is a journey in itself.
I am planning to use liquid latex to mask the (many) windows. Does anybody have any tips or better suggestions? I'm hoping to start painting within a week or so and I'd like to get the window problem right, I don't want to create more work for myself correcting an error if possible. So, liquid latex?
So now that you're done the electronics how much do you think you ended up spending on all of your lights? IIRC the lighting kit available for this is about $300. Did you save much?
I'll be working on this one later this year and was wondering if the cost difference was worth even trying it without the kit.
I think I saved around $150 by doing it from scratch, also my lights have cold cathodes rather than LEDs in the nacelles and I think I have quite a few more lights overall than the trek modeller kit does. However it's so bloody time consuming that if I were to start again, I'd just buy a prewired kit. I can't tell you how many days and hours have been spent soldering, replacing shorted LEDs and generally pulling my hair out. Too much hassle! Get the kit.
Get yourself some 2mm hole punchers to mask the windows.
You just put your favorite masking stuff on to a semi hard surface, like a styrene plate for example, and punch hole in to with the "puncher meets hammer" method.
Once you think you have enough holes, you remove the excess material and the window masks will stick to the surface. You can lift them off with your hobby knife and place where needed.
Regarding the main deflector; in the reference pictures I noticed that those spokes are some sort of styrene strip glued to the dish, so I copied that approach by using 1mm x 10mm evergreen styrene stripping.
After applying the strips the outside was given a clear coat, while the inside remained as it was giving me the milky look you can see in the picture of the studio model you posted. The result is pretty close to the studio model I would say:
If i had the electronics experience I would totally do it myself, the trekmodeler kit, which I have is good, but many areas I would have done differently to get a better effect.
For the windows - the aztec dummy masking kit comes with all the window masks, plus the aztec's, strongbacks, and pretty much every masking bit you need. I purchased it to save time and aggravation.
Awesome build! Hats off for tackling the lighting yourself. It's giving me courage to consider doing that myself. Great work! The alien arboretum is really well done.
What are you guys planning on using to secure the saucer to the neck (glue wise)?
I'm using plastic cement on the joints, superglue on the tabs and black milliput to seal the joints. Should be strong enough I think, it's a pretty good fit when dry fitting it.
Impulse engine grill just about finished:
It took a while to paint this little piece. I don't think much of this new airbrush:
LOVE your work on this!!!
Your airbrush pic got a big chuckle. Well done
Great work so far!
I was building one of these in my hotel room 2 years ago. My fatal flaw was that it would lean forward due to all the weight (wiring) in the saucer when on the display post And thus it has been sitting in a box ever since. Ill figure out something when life settles down.
In regards to painting the inner warp nacelle windows. I see you used .75mm tape. I used a fin tipped Gundam marker (sharpie) and just lightly sanded off any excess. The sanding took off the excess and diffused any light.
Here's a tip I just picked up, which I think I'm going to try;
To mask the windows, use BLU-TAC. It's easy to manipulate into the correct shapes, adheres well without spoiling the surface and is easy to remove after painting.
I'm going to give it a shot on the spare hull piece and see how it works out.
Great work so far, lots of great ideas here. I bought this kit last year and am terrified to even start working on it. I am looking forward to this thread.
Great work on this Ob1al.
I'm going to have to get mine out of the attic now
great work Ob1al!
love your airbrush... If you want to get really great results, don't use the "Kill" setting, instead set it to "Stun"-ing.
Lol. Thanks all.
Tonight I'm fitting the circuits for the flashers and strobes. I'll get some pics or video up when it's done.
Several drinks in and a lovely homemade Thai curry later, I finally have a rocking' circuit to make the strobe and navigation lights work like they should. Here it is!
She might not look like much but she's got it where it counts.
This fits perfectly in the lower hull, under the hangar bay. Which means I don't have too many wires coming down the upright support into the base.
I'm off to the pub tomorrow as it's fathers day here in the UK, but I might get the time to wire my flashing LED's into the circuit and see all the lights operating for the first time.
This is a significant step forward, I feel like I am finally getting there with this build!
Here's a quick video (in shaded daylight) with the navigation and strobes fitted.
Enterprise light test #2 - YouTube
Still more light blocking to do, but I'm pleased with how it looks so far.
I'll leave it running for a day or two to make sure everything's fine, then I'll move on to gluing all the substructures together.
Nice work ob1!
where are you hiding the ballasts for the nacelle cfl's?
The transformers for the CCTs are inside the base. I had to cut the wires, feed them through the narcelle struts then resolder the connections inside the base. The ship is pretty jam packed inside now so I was glad this solution worked.
Very nice solution, I started this kit last year & decided to do the same thing. I found a place that sells 3" & 6" white cathodes & am using them for the shuttle bay & garden lighting. Rexim LLC on ebay they sell replacements for computer & mobile device cathodes & have just about any size.