New BMF coming

Jaitea said:
Is there any way you could grind them smaller TronGod?...or file them

J
Click to expand...
Nibbler...
It's a metal block...so in theory it would be possible for someone maybe (but very very hard to do).. I don't think I will try tho...I would make more of a mess out of it than its worth. Figuring it was like 6 bucks in the 1st place, I was hoping to just find one with a smaller block.
 
Ok guys,

Following on from my post about the pin stripe material for the vents/exhausts, here are a couple of photos with some i just cut out using a metal disc and a scalpel. Not too bad for a cheap alternative. I have loads of this material left in anyone else wants these as a budget fix :) of course, you will need to stick them down,trim the edges or put a thin edge seal around them.

SAM_3732.JPG
 

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Hi, Ya'll! Just joining in after hearing about the wonderful Hasbro MF 'toy' and Googled out to here. Sounds as if everyone is going full bore on it, having fun doing some creative modeling! Anyway, readling back through the thread, it occurred to me that one possible alternative mounting point to the bottom turret would be to use one of the 'docking ports' (port-side being preferable, I suppose) to put the mounting rod into. Dressing it up as a 'docking arm' or just plain with articulation for either a horizontal or vertical attitude should be relatively simple. You could also make a 'shortie' as a wall mount... lots of possibilities. In any case, I intend to do something along those lines, assuming I don't go complete nutters and try to build a full interior! ;^P

One tip, when attaching objects to the outside using an epoxy adhesive: drill a hole! Use enough putty or glue so it oozes through the hole to then act like a "rivet" once set (a hole in the attached part's backside also serves same purpose.) CA is also good except for when you have shear forces to deal with...

I haven't yet drilled all the way back through to see if anyone has tested the idea of using paints made for RC car shells (which I think may be acrylic plastic, not polypropylene...) Any findings yet?

Congrats to all who have already gotten knee-deep - I add to the appreciation of your shared experience!

Regards, Robert
 
rbeach84 said:
Hi, Ya'll! Just joining in after hearing about the wonderful Hasbro MF 'toy' and Googled out to here. Sounds as if everyone is going full bore on it, having fun doing some creative modeling! Anyway, readling back through the thread, it occurred to me that one possible alternative mounting point to the bottom turret would be to use one of the 'docking ports' (port-side being preferable, I suppose) to put the mounting rod into. Dressing it up as a 'docking arm' or just plain with articulation for either a horizontal or vertical attitude should be relatively simple. You could also make a 'shortie' as a wall mount... lots of possibilities. In any case, I intend to do something along those lines, assuming I don't go complete nutters and try to build a full interior! ;^P

One tip, when attaching objects to the outside using an epoxy adhesive: drill a hole! Use enough putty or glue so it oozes through the hole to then act like a "rivet" once set (a hole in the attached part's backside also serves same purpose.) CA is also good except for when you have shear forces to deal with...

I haven't yet drilled all the way back through to see if anyone has tested the idea of using paints made for RC car shells (which I think may be acrylic plastic, not polypropylene...) Any findings yet?

Congrats to all who have already gotten knee-deep - I add to the appreciation of your shared experience!

Regards, Robert
Click to expand...
The center of the ship has a ton of support rods..so if you were to put a mount on the docking dealy..you would have some major chopping to do inside :) I was thinking about having several attach points....one being thru the side of the ship...however I've backed off of that idea for now after seeing the inside of the ship.
 
Thought I already posted this, stupid fone.
But those dog collars are a great idea, means you can leave more support bits. I've ordered a couple for under a fiver so we will see how bright they are. :)
 
_Lee_ said:
Ok guys,

Following on from my post about the pin stripe material for the vents/exhausts, here are a couple of photos with some i just cut out using a metal disc and a scalpel. Not too bad for a cheap alternative. I have loads of this material left in anyone else wants these as a budget fix :) of course, you will need to stick them down,trim the edges or put a thin edge seal around them.
Click to expand...

ill take some. how do we do this?
 
For those considering the Shapeways cockpit upgrade I thought I'd post a brief review.


The molding detail on these pieces is spectacular and in my opinion they justify the price. However, I'd like to address whether or not these need to be 3-D printed or can be cast in resin.


It's been reported that rezin is out of the question because of the many holes drilled for fiber optics.


Well, most of those holes need to be re-drilled anyway as many of them are too small for the fiber optics that most modelers use and some of them had what I would have to call the dangling Chad as part of the 3-D printing process. After a coat of paint most all will need to be re opened with a pin drill.


I took an LED engine and wired up a few just to see how cooperative the parts would be and to my delight they worked quite well. When the time comes this will be an easy build and enjoyable one at that.


Thanks to FZ6 and all of his efforts.image.jpg
 
Run your fibers first, before painting, and then the holes will not fill with primer and paint. Don't glue the fibers though after your initial color coats and you can pull them out for final detail washes, dry brushing, etc. Put the fibers back in and secure. Save from loosing them under paint.

My Falcon is still mocking me as it sits under the Christmas tree, unopened, for another week.....
 
MoJo Rising said:
For those considering the Shapeways cockpit upgrade I thought I'd post a brief review.


The molding detail on these pieces is spectacular and in my opinion they justify the price. However, I'd like to address whether or not these need to be 3-D printed or can be cast in resin.


It's been reported that rezin is out of the question because of the many holes drilled for fiber optics.


Well, most of those holes need to be re-drilled anyway as many of them are too small for the fiber optics that most modelers use and some of them had what I would have to call the dangling Chad as part of the 3-D printing process. After a coat of paint most all will need to be re opened with a pin drill.


I took an LED engine and wired up a few just to see how cooperative the parts would be and to my delight they worked quite well. When the time comes this will be an easy build and enjoyable one at that.


Thanks to FZ6 and all of his efforts.View attachment 417112
Click to expand...

Nice job Josh!!!

I suggest also using EL panels. It's a paper sheet that's a light emitter and that can be cut in the shape you want.
Just see a first approach I've done on my MPC kit.

MF CABIN WALL EL PANEL.jpgMILLENNIUM FALCON CABIN BACK WALL LIGHTED.jpg

It's an early prototype, and it's really promising.
The light is blueish white but there are other colours available: white, green, blue, red...

The different colours you see on the shot is because I've put at the back a transparent plastic sheet that I've painted with colored lacquer.
 
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FZ6 said:
Nice job Josh!!!

I suggest also using EL panels. It's a paper sheet that's a light emitter and that can be cut in the shape you want.
Just see a first approach I've done on my MPC kit.

View attachment 417144

It's an early prototype, and it's really promising.
The light is blueish white but there are other colours available: white, green, blue, red...

The different colours you see on the shot is because I've put at the back a transparent plastic sheet that I've painted with colored lacquer.
Click to expand...


Yeah, I hate to break it too you Tony but that might work if you keep your Falcon in a dark den, but in a well light room (like the ones where modeling competitions take place, or museum quality displays) your EL panels will not make much of an impression. They are waaaay too dim and they require replacement after an unspecified amount of hours.

Look at my photo again. Then look at yours. Yours is taken with all the lights offf. Mine is taken in broad daylight right next to a window with lots of sunshine coming through. It's no competition and and the fiber is only being lit with a cheap 6 volt LED engine. (that's 2 AA batteries).

When I light your cockpit parts up for real it will be with a 16W engine and with tried and true technology of fiber optics and LEDs. That will do your product justice and make you feel like climbing inside and flying away.

ELs are the new thing and I hope they improve but right now they just do not pack the punch necessary for this job. If I'm out of touch on this please somebody here correct me. Post some pix of Falcon cockpits in daylight and lets see those christmas tree lights shine through Mother Nature's solar supremacy.
 
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MoJo Rising said:
Yeah, I hate to break it too you Tony but that might work if you keep your Falcon in a dark den, but in a well light room (like the ones where modeling competitions take place, or museum quality displays) your EL panels will not make much of an impression. They are waaaay too dim and they require replacement after an unspecified amount of hours.

Look at my photo again. Then look at yours. Yours is taken with all the lights offf. Mine is taken in broad daylight right next to a window with lots of sunshine coming through and the fiber is only being lit with a cheap 6 volt LED engine. (that's 2 AA batteries).

When I light your cockpit parts up for real it will be with a 16W engine and with tried and true technology of fiber optics and LEDs. That will do your product justice and make you feel like climbing inside and flying away.

ELs are the new thing and I hope they improve but right now they just do not pack the punch necessary for this job. If I'm out of touch on this please somebody here correct me. Post some pix of Falcon cockpits in daylight and lets see hose christmas tree lights shine through Mother Nature's solar supremacy.
Click to expand...

Yes Josh!

You're right. The EL panels are dim compared to the fiber optics+Led. They're improving the light spread but by now they are not so bright as the led, of course.
 
Personally, the debate between LED and EL is moot. It's a matter of choice. Either will work for the purpose and arguing about it isn't productive. The only real matter is the cost. Yes, the EL paper may need to be replaced eventually, but that is true of LEDs also, they do burn out. But for this purpose, unless you are going to have the lighting on for 24/7; then it's not an issue.

Just my opinion of course.
 
MoJo Rising said:
Yeah, I hate to break it too you Tony but that might work if you keep your Falcon in a dark den, but in a well light room (like the ones where modeling competitions take place, or museum quality displays) your EL panels will not make much of an impression. They are waaaay too dim and they require replacement after an unspecified amount of hours.

Look at my photo again. Then look at yours. Yours is taken with all the lights offf. Mine is taken in broad daylight right next to a window with lots of sunshine coming through. It's no competition and and the fiber is only being lit with a cheap 6 volt LED engine. (that's 2 AA batteries).

When I light your cockpit parts up for real it will be with a 16W engine and with tried and true technology of fiber optics and LEDs. That will do your product justice and make you feel like climbing inside and flying away.
.
Click to expand...

The back wall I see as no problem...but wondering for the fiber-optics..How much room do you have for the side/wall panels...is there enough room for them? How snug is this cockpit inside the tube?
 
ThrakenSal said:
Personally, the debate between LED and EL is moot. It's a matter of choice. Either will work for the purpose and arguing about it isn't productive. The only real matter is the cost. Yes, the EL paper may need to be replaced eventually, but that is true of LEDs also, they do burn out. But for this purpose, unless you are going to have the lighting on for 24/7; then it's not an issue.

Just my opinion of course.
Click to expand...

I'm relatively new to posting on RPF and thought the purpose of this forum was to discuss different techniques. There are literaly dozens of posts dedicated to different methods of priming and what is ""accurate." So, i didn't think a discussion about the choices for lighting was "unproductive." or "moot."

As for your opinion that LEDs need to be replaced too so what's the dif; Yeah, LEDs need to be replaced-- after about 10,000 hours. EL is too new to have a proof on longevity. Which makes it a wild card at best, but those in the know all agree that the life span is way shorter than LED, which brings the cost up in the long run, not to mention the pain in the ass factor of gutting your model to replace them.

Is it really about chooice? Sure. This is a craft and an art. Everything is about choice. But the RPF is supposed to be about guidance so that people make INFORMED choices. And that can only happen if we encourage open conversations, not by shutting them down by labeling them as "arguments" 'debates" "unproductive" or calling them "moot."

just my opinion.
 
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MoJo Rising said:
I'm relatively new to posting on RPF and thought the purpose of this forum was to discuss different techniques. There are literaly dozens of posts dedicated to different methods of priming and what is ""accurate." So, i didn't think a discussion about the choices for lighting was "unproductive." or "moot."
Click to expand...
I like to hear everyone's ideas or takes on how to do stuff.. because I can't afford to do everything 10 different ways, so hearing 10 different stories lets me see things through other people's eyes. That way I can sit back..think about it..then try one of the ideas! It's wonderful! :)
 
MoJo Rising said:
I'm relatively new to posting on RPF and thought the purpose of this forum was to discuss different techniques. There are literaly dozens of posts dedicated to different methods of priming and what is ""accurate." So, i didn't think a discussion about the choices for lighting was "unproductive." or "moot."

As for your opinion that LEDs need to be replaced too so what's the dif; Yeah, LEDs need to be replaced-- after about 10,000 hours. EL is too new to have a proof on longevity. Which makes it a wild card at best, but those in the know all agree that the life span is way shorter than LED, which brings the cost up in the long run, not to mention the pain in the ass factor of gutting your model to replace them.

Is it really about chooice? Sure. This is a craft and an art. Everything is about choice. But the RPF is supposed to be about guidance so that people make INFORMED choices. And that can only happen if we encourage open conversations, not by shutting them down by labeling them as "arguments" 'debates" "unproductive" or calling them "moot."

just my opinion.
Click to expand...


I did say it was personally my opinion, I wasn't trying to negate your opinion in the process. I'm sorry you took it that way. Accuracy wasn't what I was talking about either. I just feel folks should be able to use what they can afford, and truthfully; LEDs are cheaper in the long run. I was just trying to get people to recognize that EL was another option; not to ruffle feathers.
 
MoJo Rising said:
I'm relatively new to posting on RPF and thought the purpose of this forum was to discuss different techniques. There are literaly dozens of posts dedicated to different methods of priming and what is ""accurate." So, i didn't think a discussion about the choices for lighting was "unproductive." or "moot."

As for your opinion that LEDs need to be replaced too so what's the dif; Yeah, LEDs need to be replaced-- after about 10,000 hours. EL is too new to have a proof on longevity. Which makes it a wild card at best, but those in the know all agree that the life span is way shorter than LED, which brings the cost up in the long run, not to mention the pain in the ass factor of gutting your model to replace them.

Is it really about chooice? Sure. This is a craft and an art. Everything is about choice. But the RPF is supposed to be about guidance so that people make INFORMED choices. And that can only happen if we encourage open conversations, not by shutting them down by labeling them as "arguments" 'debates" "unproductive" or calling them "moot."

just my opinion.
Click to expand...


A lot of it comes from typing where you can't tell tone. I have had people post something in response to me and I got upset by what I thought was the tone and then in the next post they explain what they meant, then I go back and see I misunderstood it, etc. My recent Episode7 thread is a classic example of people not understanding what I meant, not to mention adding in their own version of what I said.


On another subject, as there are thousands I am sure, anyone have a link to a good beginners guide to Fiber optic lighting???
 
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