My Ultimaker 3D Printer tests

Tildane

Tildane

Well-Known Member
Hi Y'all, I have been lucky enough to be put in charge of an Ultimaker 3D printer at work.


2014-04-10 16.14.06.jpg And here she is. (Although.... Because this machine can make virtually anything out of thin air, maybe he should be a he?...Na! just kidding, She's beautiful.
I have had a look at some of the web sites about the ultimaker and they don't really tell you much and a lot of people have been asking "what can they actually do?". Well, this is my chance to log my findings with pictures and hopefully get others involved with better knowledge to help me. So here goes.2014-04-02 15.48.16.jpg
 
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My first test was the robots that came with the machine.
three robots.jpg

The one on the right is printed with the standard 100% speed. The details are pretty bad and the layers of plastic really stand out. The one in the middle was printed at 150% flow, meaning 50% more extrusion of plastic. The details are still really ropey and the top layer was quite thin and holy. The final robot on the left was printed at 30% and has come out the best. The amount of plastic used looks really solid, the details are sharp and smooth and the top looks really good.

My next test was to download a model off "Thingiverse" and print it. Being a huge Doctor Who fan I used a Tardis model.

two tardis.jpg
The first print was done at normal speed and came out horrendous, lots of lines showing. I also found the nozzle was loose and plastic was escaping out the top, burning and then dripping from the nozzle leaving brown and black colours through out the print. I tightened the nozzle and printed the Tardis again at 30%. The final result was much better.

For my latest test I made a 3d model using 3d studio max.two large cybermen.jpg I Transfered the file into CURA and noticed parts of the model appeared black but when I did a search for this nothing came up except an article about the video card being to slow. I printed the figure and discovered that the parts in black were not connected very well to the rest of the model. After some more tweaking on the model it was fine and printing the the whole model as one. I'm a bit disappointed with the quality of the figures.
 
Here is a close up of the heads.cu head 1.jpgThis one was printed at 50%.cu head 2.jpgAnd this one was printed at 30%. The mouth detail is much better on the slower one. I will do a test at an even slower speed to see what happens. BTW these cybermen took over two hours to print each, so slowing it down has it's consequences. One final note. Having made the model, it's easy to change it and print out a different figure.
new cyber leader.jpg
 
I'm a gynacologist. No wait... I'm a 3d design technician at a prestigious University (Not that Prestigious). I'm one of the only full time technicians here and the printer has been sat in a room unused and unloved for a year.

Thats the thing about these printers currently, they have to be constantly watched incase they muck up. The Ultimaker has no way of knowing if there is a problem, it just keeps going. I tried to print a larger Cyberman that takes over 12 hours. The first one fell over half way and we ended up with lots of extruded lumps of plastic. The second one, the plastic jammed on the reel and no plastic was extruded half way up, even though the printer continued on it's merry way for many hours into the night.
 
Dag Nab It!!!!! Just done a 3 hr print (Only a third of the way through) and the plastic reel jammed again. The coils get knotted up against each other and then go taught. Luckily I noticed it but as this has been sitting around for so long maybe the plastic is getting old and brital? For me this is the most common reason for failure. I keep pulling the cable to release the tension, but is that causing it to lock up? Hmmm
 
Do you guys also have a 3d Scanner for scanning real-life objects and re-creating them... if so I think I've found my new bestest friend in the whole world :D

Jedi Dade
 
It's exciting to see your progress in this! I'm certain there are many stories from inside inkjet print test labs that are similar...and not to date myself, but there was a time where I worked with line printers (dot matrix printer able to print through 5 ply paper and entire line at time.). They sounded like a helicopter when fired up, and jams were similar to what you describe...big nasty messes ;)

I just can't wait to see what my grand kids will make with these things! I'm sure they'll just download a new toy from the iToys store and run it off...exciting times!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I'm using PLA because the fumes aren't toxic but it looks generic with no labels on and a cardboard roll. But this is what I inherited with the machine.
 
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i noticed when using the cheaper PLA i had the same problems.. i only use the Makerbot PLA. seems to be better never had a snag on the reel.


I have access to a scanner. if anyone wants some thing scanned. Send me a PM. im scanning my X jet now to print out smaller versions.


Al
 
Make sure the filament never gets lose on the spool. That can cause jamming.

Sent from my Etch A Sketch.
 
You wouldn't believe it! I found a new setting on the Cura program that makes the spacing finer for better quality, and it seems to work, but... After spending the day making sure the plastic didn't get caught, five hours later this happened

2014-04-12 16.39.47.jpg A huge hole appeared in his head. There was a problem with the model. I think one of the ear cones had some of it's normals around the wrong way. After adjusting all the normals on the model I printed a small version that worked out fine. I think I will make that the norm for all new models.
 
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I also have an Ultimaker, and if you take some time to get to know Cura and the expert settings, you can make so really great parts.

these were done with 0.05mm layer hight :)

IMG_1038.JPG


The hand pistons on the hand were printed separate and glued on.

IMG_1031.JPG
 
I now think the secret to the ultimaker is the layer spacing. With the new finer spacing the detail is much sharper but...a lot of the detail is marred by the bridgework it uses to hold up the overhangs. My next attempt will be to print out individual pieces and join them together.


20p.jpgHere he is. The detail is a lot sharper with the finer layers but this chap took 7 hours to print. It's great for a crude test piece but hardly worth thinking about mass producing something. The quality isn't perfect but this is an old machine. Could I sculpt this figure in seven hours??? Yes I think I could. Did I enjoy watching the layers print one by one for seven hours? ABSOLUTELY!! It's fascinating to watch and to see your figure or part start to appear before your eyes. Will I be buying one of my own?? Yes damn it! They can only get better from here on, in fact they probably already have. For me this is just the beginning. I'm salivating at the mouth to get onto the next print. Each print is a new challenge and a pleasure once finished. More tweaking to come.
 
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I tried changing the type of support it creates around the model from "touching build plate" to "everywhere". Here is what happened.

2014-04-14 21.24.50.jpg
The support structures are everywhere, under the chin, under the ears, front, back and side of legs. The big ones are relatively easy to get off but the one under the chin is a big job. The quality is relatively the same.
 
try lowering the temperature, it looks like a little bit of over extrusion,
and look into the expert menu, there are two options of support type (Cura 14.03)

I always find PLA white to be more sticky when printing and creating blobs and strings, you might want to test it with another colour.

if you really want the best help, go to the Ultimaker forum, it's very active, and can give great advise :)
Official Ultimaker User Forum
 
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