Molding and Casting Questions.

I vacuum de-gas all my silicone molds, and then use a pressure pot for casting into it. You want to get the vacuum down to around 28 inches of mercury. How long it takes depends on how thick the silicone is, how much air you've whipped into it in the mixing process, and the cure time of the silicone. (Some cure too fast to de-gas.) I prefer de-gassing in a cup or bucket before pouring it into the mold.

I've had problems with pressure casting into a mold that hasn't been de-gassed. The pressure causes all the trapped air bubbles in the mold to shrink which can mildly distort the entire mold. Also, if there is a bubble in the mold right next to the part; when the bubble shrinks, it creates a bump or pimple on the casting.

I'm not familiar with the Pinky silicone that you are using, but I find that platinum silicones are more expensive and fussier to use than tin silicones, so I only use them for particular needs. (For instance; clear casting resins seem to prefer platinum silicones.)

As for temperature - Yup! cold weather slows or stops the cure process. I've brought molds into the house to cure on cold nights (you just want to be sure nothing leaks!).
On some occasions I've made a "hot box" in my shop by putting a cardboard box over the mold with a 75 watt desk lamp shining into it to keep it warm inside. Just be careful that any hot parts of the lamp aren't touching the box (…fire, bad…).
 
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Gattaca, I can make the house hot if need be. Not sure the wife will be keen with me working the stuff inside. It has no smell, but there is the leak risk factor.
Duncanator, I probably can make myself a hot box.

I am also thinking about placing my 2 bottles (Part A and Part B) into a hot bath (as hot as I can take still reaching my hand in there without burning myself) to help keep the liquids in a nice runny state.

Has anyone done that and it is good or bad idea?
 
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Keeping your materials from getting cold is a good idea, but watch out for too much heat. Heat accelerates the curing process, just like cold inhibits it.
I pre-warm my paint rattle cans with hot water on cold days too.

Most silicones are intended to be used at room temperature, so I'd keep your bath only a little above "room temp".
 
Nothing like trial and error to learn how to make stuff.

Things I did differently this time -

1. Watched lots of you-tube videos to learn how the pros do this. I had some interesting concerns about my Vac Chamber (and liquids in general under vacuum) and luckily I found a heap of excellent you-tube videos that showed me where I was going wrong.

2. I ditched my 2 part mold (for now) and decided to cast these flat parts as an open back mold. I did have huge success with the Vac Chamber where it pulled a full 30 INCHES! The mix raised, foamed up and slumped. After re-pressurizing the chamber the remaining bubbles seemed to be crushed by the pressure and as you can see in the photo, it appears to be bubble free.

3. Before mixing, I warmed the both parts A and B of the clear eleastomer in a warmer than hot tap water bath. Not hot enough to burn myself, but hot enough to make the Part A and B liquids really runny. It says to shake the parts well before pouring the quantities out and this was much less like honey it had been during my last attempt. The interesting part about this was I could actually now feel the exothermic reaction as I mixed this in the cup.

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Because I don't think my pouring technique is quite there, I have done the no-no and degassed in the mold but as you can see here, looks bubble free. Hopefully this will be the case when I de-mold in 6 or so hours time.
 
De-gassing in the mold isn't a bad thing, so long as your mold's walls are high enough to keep the foamed-up material from spilling over the sides before it collapses.

One other thing to watch out for when de-gassing in the mold is; if your pattern is hollow, it could pop a seam and/or suck the silicone into the interior of your pattern. That's not usually the end of the world, but it uses more silicone and that costs $$$.
 
Yeah based on what I saw today, would be a good idea to make a wall around the mold. There was some over spill, but nothing to write home about.
 
OK after 6 hours, out with those parts and off to cast some more.

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This is about as RD as I am going to get I think.

When back lit, you can see there is still some very small bubbles, but over all, I don't think these will be as issue.

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These ^^ are the two parts I did today.

And I did these tonight. They won't be ready for de-molding until about 3am my time, and so they will just have to wait until the morning.

So here are the empty molds.

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Degassing the mix. I used an ice cream container this time because of the high wall and larger surface area. Same deal with the hot bath for the chemicals prior to mixing.

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A full 30 inches! I really think this is the key. I was worried about damaging the pump and would shut it down too early. It needs to reach this level to work.

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BUBBLE FREE!

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I tested my skill at the "high pour" tonight and it seems to have worked out well :)

.
 
Glad the "High Pour" is working for You... ;)
Also, You can't damage the pump, as they are designed to run for long periods at a time (as long as the oil is good)
 
Yeah I am happy with how this latest batch turned out :)

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Will need to re-work this mold because it is thicker at one end. This set will be fine on my US9.5s as I can trim back the heel end. But BUBBLE FREE!
 
Yeah it is. I have a pair of molds that I made a while back that should give even better results, but they need some work first. I'll see if I can sort that tonight and get an even better pair of outrigger sides done.
 
Nice...
As I said on the weekend, a High Pour has always made a massive difference in my Casting... Glad it's all working out for you, Finally... :)
 
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So after de-molding this set this morning, I think I need to re-work my molds. Right now I seem to be trapping air and each little pyramid of the tread (these are soles for the NIKE MAG) seem to have a small indent where a bubble has been trapped. I think what I need to do is fill my current pour and breath holes, flip the molds and add a larger funnel pour spout to the middle of the top plus make a small air hole on the peak of each wing (4 in total). I think I will also move the fill/air hols to the centre of each front part as well.

The mix, degass and pour techniques are working and looking great. In fact I had some spare last night and today I have a clear cup of water. Maybe my first SIGNS prop - you know when the little girl leaves half full glasses all around the house :p
 
Try using pressure to get rid of those last little bubbles. Looks good though, glad you're on the right track to get this right.
 
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