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  1. Bryancd's Avatar
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    May 4, 2005 - #1

    I want to get a start on my Polar Lights Enterprise before sending it to be completed and lit and painted. I'm still looking for anyone who wants the job, by the way.
    In the mean time, I'm going to have some fun and do the hanger bay and arboretum. They seem pretty easy and if I make a mess, they are hard to see anyway!
    The kit is molded in white plastic. What should I use to prime the parts first?
  2. Banned
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    May 4, 2005 - #2

    um ... primer?
  3. star-art's Avatar
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    May 4, 2005 - #3

    Many modelers I know swear by Plastikote grey primer which you can get just about anywhere. The key is to warm the can slightly (by placing it a bowl of hot water -- but not TOO hot&#33 and shake the heck out of it to get a good mix.
  4. Hotshot's Avatar
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    May 4, 2005 - #4

    i can paint but not light. Something like this?? Pardon my colors, but the flash just brightens those panels right up!! I prime with a light grey, then ivory/off white.
  5. Lynn TXP 0369's Avatar
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    May 5, 2005 - #5

    Originally posted by Hotshot@May 4 2005, 10:40 PM
    i can paint but not light. Something like this?? Pardon my colors, but the flash just brightens those panels right up!! I prime with a light grey, then ivory/off white.
    [snapback]980576[/snapback]
    That looks AWESOME!!!

    PLease lets us know how you achieved that paint job so far.

    Is it painted by hand, or with masked with friskit paper and painted by an airbrush?

    What colors did you use besides the ones you mentioned? are they your choice or what the instuctions recommend?

    Please post more pics of this bad boy!!

    I just ordered mine from the a hobby shop on tues. and I hope to get mine in a couple weeks.

    Lynn
  6. Bryancd's Avatar
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    May 5, 2005 - #6

    Originally posted by Hotshot@May 5 2005, 03:40 AM
    i can paint but not light. Something like this?? Pardon my colors, but the flash just brightens those panels right up!! I prime with a light grey, then ivory/off white.
    [snapback]980576[/snapback]

    Beautiful! Would you ever consider doing a build-up? PEOPLE, I'M THROWING MONEY AROUND HERE!!!!!!
  7. Watson's Avatar
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    May 5, 2005 - #7

    Many modelers I know swear by Plastikote grey primer which you can get just about anywhere. The key is to warm the can slightly (by placing it a bowl of hot water -- but not TOO hot&#33 and shake the heck out of it to get a good mix.
    I use Plastikote religiously. I swear by it. Any area that may go on too thick can be easily sanded down. On this model I think priming will be necessary. For all the masking you will need to do, the base coat needs something to bite into, especially if you are using acryllics.

    JDH
  8. Hotshot's Avatar
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    May 5, 2005 - #8

    Wow, guys thanks for the compliments! Here's what I use and that has never let me down.
    Starshipmodelers reference shots. They are awesome and very detailed.
    Acrylic paint from walmart...yes i typed it. This stuff is cheap and is easily fixed if it gets screwed up, it can be thinned and sent through and airbrush, and brushed very well. It also drys quick for insant handling, and really give the color that "powder aztec" look so many trek ships have. The lines were done with a light pencil first, then some water color pencils. these help alot. i refuse to airbrush all those panels on something this big. it would make me cry like a little girl.

    Again, thanks for the compliments! I can't wait to see yours!!

    And yes, I'll do your build up. PM me and we'll talk!!

    I'll be doing the engineering hull tonight(not building the interior). B)
  9. Bryancd's Avatar
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    May 5, 2005 - #9

    PM Sent!
  10. Lynn TXP 0369's Avatar
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    May 5, 2005 - #10

    Originally posted by Hotshot@May 5 2005, 02:35 PM

    Starshipmodelers reference shots. They are awesome and very detailed.
    Acrylic paint from walmart...yes i typed it. This stuff is cheap and is easily fixed if it gets screwed up, it can be thinned and sent through and airbrush, and brushed very well. It also drys quick for insant handling, and really give the color that "powder aztec" look so many trek ships have. The lines were done with a light pencil first, then some water color pencils.

    Are you painting this free hand or are you masking it off???

    What kind of acrylics from Walmart? the cheapy craft .75 kind? What colors exactly?

    I'm not sure I follow you on the pencils and water color pencils. Are using the pencils to draw the lines and then paint in the detail with the acrylic paint?

    Are the water color pencils used to do the same or used as actuall color for the model?

    If the water color pencils are used for color, how do they hold up to clear sealers once the decals are in place?

    Sorry for all the questions, I just need to figure out what your doing so I can do the same.

    Thanks,
    Lynn
  11. Hotshot's Avatar
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    May 6, 2005 - #11

    Originally posted by Lynn TXP 0369+May 5 2005, 10:50 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Lynn TXP 0369 &#064; May 5 2005, 10:50 PM)</div>
    <!--QuoteBegin-Hotshot
    @May 5 2005, 02:35 PM

    Starshipmodelers reference shots. They are awesome and very detailed.
    Acrylic paint from walmart...yes i typed it. This stuff is cheap and is easily fixed if it gets screwed up, it can be thinned and sent through and airbrush, and brushed very well. It also drys quick for insant handling, and really give the color that "powder aztec" look so many trek ships have. The lines were done with a light pencil first, then some water color pencils.

    Are you painting this free hand or are you masking it off???

    What kind of acrylics from Walmart? the cheapy craft .75 kind? What colors exactly?

    I&#39;m not sure I follow you on the pencils and water color pencils. Are using the pencils to draw the lines and then paint in the detail with the acrylic paint?

    Are the water color pencils used to do the same or used as actuall color for the model?

    If the water color pencils are used for color, how do they hold up to clear sealers once the decals are in place?

    Sorry for all the questions, I just need to figure out what your doing so I can do the same.

    Thanks,
    Lynn
    [snapback]981179[/snapback]
    [/b]
    Hiya lynn . . isn&#39;t this froum all about questions? You were right on the money, i use the pencils to draw on the line, and then hand paint the panels in. now truthfully, when i get to the saucer, i&#39;ll be frisketing the aztec pattern, but as fot the hull, she&#39;s always looked a bit packworked to me. the sealer(tamaiya clear) holds just fine. and yea, the cheap kind. I buy a few colors that look good and then mix from there. Here&#39;s the hull . . . B)
  12. Bryancd's Avatar
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    May 6, 2005 - #12

    Dude, I&#39;m going to have to retitle this thread&#33;
  13. Hotshot's Avatar
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    May 7, 2005 - #13

    In the annuals of the RPF, please note to new members that when you are welcomed with the responses like the ones I&#39;ve been getting for my quick paintjob, you not only go to a dreary job witha smile on your face, but you come home with a desire to do more for everybody . . .and you feel like you&#39;re doin sumpin right&#33;&#33;&#33; Can&#39;t wait to do this Bryan&#33;&#33;&#33;
  14. phase pistol's Avatar
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    May 7, 2005 - #14

    Lookin good, Hotshot.

    You guys will have to get CRAZY nuts about the micro-detail on that Refit, the PL kit is HUGE.

    To get the juices going here are some great photo studies on Phil Broad&#39;s site. Note how the paint scheme changes between TMP and the miniature&#39;s "retirement".

    http://www.cloudster.com/Sets&Vehicles/STM...terpriseTop.htm





  15. Bryancd's Avatar
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    May 7, 2005 - #15

    LOL&#33; You&#39;re the best, Karl. I have all of those printed up here on my desk&#33;
  16. PHArchivist's Avatar
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    May 7, 2005 - #16

    Originally posted by phase pistol@May 7 2005, 07:11 AM
    Lookin good, Hotshot.

    You guys will have to get CRAZY nuts about the micro-detail on that Refit, the PL kit is HUGE.

    To get the juices going here are some great photo studies on Phil Broad&#39;s site. Note how the paint scheme changes between TMP and the miniature&#39;s "retirement".

    http://www.cloudster.com/Sets&Vehicles/STM...terpriseTop.htm


    Thanks for the link -- fogot that site still existed&#33;


  17. PHArchivist's Avatar
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    May 7, 2005 - #17

    How do you suppose the original model makers achieved the finish?

    What techniques were used?

    Were I to guess, I&#39;d swear it was a form of pre-shading, with an overall top coat of white.
  18. LastBattlestar's Avatar
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    May 7, 2005 - #18

    Originally posted by PHArchivist@May 7 2005, 05:06 PM
    How do you suppose the original model makers achieved the finish?

    [snapback]982487[/snapback]
    By your command:

    http://www.olsenart.com/strek.html

    You&#39;re gonna love this article&#33;

    Mike, Oz.
  19. PHArchivist's Avatar
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    May 7, 2005 - #19

    THAT was awesome&#33; Thanks&#33;
  20. Hotshot's Avatar
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    May 7, 2005 - #20

    Originally posted by PHArchivist@May 7 2005, 07:18 PM
    THAT was awesome&#33;Â* Thanks&#33;
    [snapback]982551[/snapback]

    Yes, that was awesome...i think you saved me about three weeks work&#33;&#33;&#33; YIPPEE&#33; B)
  21. Bryancd's Avatar
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    May 7, 2005 - #21

    Stop typing and keep working&#33;&#33;&#33;
  22. phase pistol's Avatar
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    May 7, 2005 - #22

    It&#39;s more than just painting too... start looking for model railroad bulbs to do the self-lighting system.

    http://www.culttvman.com/kyu-woong_l..._enterpri.html

    (this isn&#39;t the studio miniature... this is the old AMT kit&#33; Think of what the new 3-foot Polar kit is gonna look like... Â* )


  23. phase pistol's Avatar
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    May 7, 2005 - #23

    Vinyl painting templates in case you want to do accurate Aztek panels.

    http://www.culttvman.net/refit_painting_masks.html

  24. phase pistol's Avatar
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    May 7, 2005 - #24

    Also don&#39;t miss Ron Eccles&#39; paint guides on Starshipmodeler

    http://www.starshipmodeler.com/trek/...aint_guide.htm

  25. phase pistol's Avatar
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    May 7, 2005 - #25

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