Hi i have a 1:1 scale electrobinoculars and want to weather it withe chipped look, what is best used to put on the base color coat (which is black) befor putting on the primary coat white?
Hi i have a 1:1 scale electrobinoculars and want to weather it withe chipped look, what is best used to put on the base color coat (which is black) befor putting on the primary coat white?
Windsor Newton latex masking fluid, its what id go for, it all depends on the application too, a good way to apply is with a toothbrush, dabbing and kinda scratching it onto the surface?
You get some very cool effects looking very real world worn with this, rather than "blobs" showing black through!
lee
You could just prime, paint and then bang the crap out of it!
so after you paint the white on top of the latex and the paint driesralphee said:
the latex will peel off?
I used that technique in this thread:
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php...ght=weathering
Where the silver shows through. Paint the color you want to show through. Let it dry, then paint the liquid mask on. I dabbed it with a sponge. Let that dry, then put the top coat of paint on.
After that is dry, rub the surface to get the dried liquid mask off.
FB
For me the best way to simulate damage IS damage! I'm serious! If masking doesn't work to your liking, simply mechanically chip the paint with a wide variety of tools/objects you can find anywhere around you.
Masking can appear too soft and uniform on a Real Scale (tm) object, but is fine for scale effects on smaller representations.
Distress that puppy! For real! Use real dirt too. Then seal it all with dull coat.
Yep.
Electrobinocs. Exactly what I pictured in me brain.
Just do it. Experiment. Have fun.
Is the 1:1 prop you own the one you have pictured in your post, or is that an original? I'm guessing it isn't the exact one you own since it alrady appears quite weathered.
If you don't mind my asking, where did you pick up the binocs?
Is yours metal or resin, because that may influence how you want to approach the weathering. If it's metal I would agree with Falco3's method of really distressing it - always looks best.
Well looking at the pic, ig still go with latex masking for the larger chips, then scuff the hell out of it with fine steel wool, this dirties up a white coat very well too, then yes, seal it up with dullcote, even with the dirt in there too, you can then maybe look at using a coal MIG pigment rubbed in with cotton wool to add a very dirty grubby look?
lee
those in the picture is the real deal....the one I have is resin...after I weather it I have acylic lenses cut out for the front and the back to give it a more realistic look.
All you need is tape.
Basecoat the binos with either BBQ, wheel or engine paint (all black, of course). You can get BBQ paint at Home Depot or better stocked hardware stores. The other two should be available from any decent autoparts store.
Let the basecoat dry for a few days, so it's fully cured. Then spray on a topcoat of white. Most paints should fully cure in about 24 hours. You want to get to it before then. Take some very adhesive tape (duct will work as well as masking) and roll it around your fingers, sticky side out. Press and peel in different locations. You should pull up random pieces of white paint, leaving the black underneath to show through.
Then use a scotchbrite pad (like a plastic brillo pad) and scrub the daylights out of it. This will tone down the white paint as well as feather the edges of the "chips". It'll also do some additional paint removal, making it more random.
You can give it a wash with some thinned acrylis to add grime in the nooks and crannies, but that's a personal choice.
-Fred
You´ve got a resin SIMRAD/ Binoc?....details please
I have a resin one as well, but it´s warped and deformed and doesn´t suit my needs...want another one.
Thanks in advance, Markus
Last edited by propcollector; Jun 30, 2008 at 7:04 PM.
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