filler questions

metal wood

Well-Known Member
i mainly use miliput for model filling, sometimes its a major drag to use though. was wondering what your guys and gals preferred goop is. was also wondering what the red putty i see around is, Bondo? with Bondo i get lost, there are 4 or 5 stages to the stuff, all for auto work, which one of those stages is best for plastic models and does it need a hardener? thanks for any and all information.

p.s. need to know, just picked up the full Aliens model kits from back in the 90's for $40!!!! some are pretty warped and will need a ton of filler. thanks again!
:cheers
 
I've heard Bondo Gold is good for modelling, it's finer than ordinary Bondo; I haven't ever used it though. Normal Bondo is OKAY for models, but it's messy and the fumes are pretty....headachey
I personally use Milliput and Games Workshop's "Green Stuff", it comes in either a little pot or in a two-part epoxy putty.
 
Best advice I can give is to visit your local panel beater (car body repair) and ask what they use. You'll find that all of the car body fillers are pretty much the same and are a lot easier to work with than you'd think. Use them outside if you're sensitive to fumes , but they're not too odorous, certainly nothing like polyester resin is.
 
Bondo is great for big projects but I don't find it lends itself well to little jobs like plastic models. I am too impatient for Milliput and similar slower epoxy putties (Apoxie, Magic Sculpt), though they work great for sculpting whole new parts or large areas that have to have the texture re-sculpted to match the surrounding area. For simple gap and seam filling, I like baking soda and cyanoacrylate glue (super glue, Krazy glue, Zap, etc.). Fill the gap with baking soda using a brush, drip on a little CA glue (thin works best) and it instantly crystallizes into a plastic with sanding characteristics that match styrene very well. (If your filler is much harder than styrene it is difficult to sand down even with the surrounding styrene as the sanding lowers the styrene faster than the filler!) This can be applied in layers for deep gaps and large areas and there is no waiting around.

Good luck!
 
Bondo for me is a big job filler, i hate mixing it and its fumes for smaller jobs. If its smaller apps your using it for, seriously look at Tamiya Light curing putty.
Its way low in viscosity (like egg yoke), flows nice into gaps and cures with, you guessed it, light, be it natural or Fluorescent in just a few minutes. I apply it at my bench, then just place the part directly under my bench lamp, then sand it in and finish the part.

lee
 
https://www.tamiyausa.com/items/pai...nance-material-62000/light-curing-putty-87076
fore more on that awesomeness that lee was talking about. holy crap this stuff sounds awesome!!! going to order some for myself! thanks everyone for the info, thinking i will buy a little of all of it minus the bondo don't want the headache literally! if you guys want i can post which one seems to work best for me, little experiment if you will.

update:
appears that the light curing goop is no longer being manufactured, just dropped $25 on a tube to be sent from Japan, via Amazon. if this stuff is as great as you say it is (Lee) then we should all just buy a ton of it before its to late.
 
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...was also wondering what the red putty i see around is, Bondo? with Bondo i get lost, there are 4 or 5 stages to the stuff, all for auto work, which one of those stages is best for plastic models and does it need a hardener? thanks for any and all information...
You're thinking of Bondo's auto body filler, which really isn't suitable for styrene kits.

They make another product called Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty which is primarily used to fill pinholes and other minor imperfections when doing automobile body work, but it also works quite well as a seam filler for styrene and resin kits. It comes pre-mixed in a squeeze tube and has a rather creamy consistency, so it's not really a "putty", but I've been using it on my styrene and resin kits for several years now and prefer it to most putties that are specifically made and marketed for the model building community. It's not perfect for every modeling situation--you can't really sculpt it like you can with a two-part epoxy putty, there is a shrinkage factor, and I've heard it can warp/melt thin styrene if used in large quantities--but it's easy to apply, cures relatively quickly, sands very easily, and can be found at almost any auto parts store.

Again, I use it for minor seam filling. For larger jobs like filling large gaps and/or adding sculpted surface detail, I use Aves Apoxie Sculpt. Aves Apoxie Sculpt is a traditional two-part epoxy, so it can be sculpted into almost any shape you can think of. And there's virtually no shrinkage factor, which makes it a good product for filling large gaps. However, it's not as easy to obtain (I've only found it available online), it's more expensive than most traditional modeling putties, and once it's fully cured it's extremely difficult to sand because it's hard as a rock.

Both products have a bit of a learning curve (i.e., what you can and can't do with them) but, between the two, I haven't needed any other products for seam filling and/or adding sculpted surface detail to any of my model kits.
 
The Bondo Glazing putty can also be thinned with lacquer thinner and brushed in for filling scratches.
Best part is a large tube is only a few dollars.
Like regular model putties it will soften the surface especially if you put it on to thick.

If you need smaller amounts of filler (for large gaps) you can also use Plumbers putty that comes in a stick. (the stuff in the tub stays gooey)
You just cut off a piece the size you need and knead it together (it's a 2 part putty in a single stick) once the color is even it's ready to use.
Supposedly you can get it in 5 and 20 minute cure times.
Avoid the Marine putty since it's rubbery and will peal right off.
There is also a Steel version that kicks fast, gets really hot and is impossible to sand.

DO NOT mix 5 minute epoxy and Ca glue it gets hot enough to smoke and possibly catch fire.
 
Got it for $18 on eBay.
lick my butt ;)

stopped at an auto store today for some more pin stripping tape (use it for fine masking) and saw a bondo deal that was new to me, its called Ultra-Violet Glazing & Spot Putty. says it requires direct sunlight to cure, otherwise no hardener needed, very strong but flexible and sand-able; still a head ache maker according to all the WARNING!!! signs all over the place in 50 different languages, sunny tomorrow so i will try it out on some of the things i got lying around.
 
I am VERY interested to see how this goes! A lot of the beginner forums on filling in swear by bondo, being Australian getting bondo gold is fractionally impossible. I've found that covering it with your general light filler from a car store and then following up with spot putty is working for me.
the spot putty cures quick and it's made to use with filler. So sanding strength is practically the same. Quite impressed with results so far.
 
i have an actual 3M store in town if you want Bondo i can get some and send it your way, just pay the price and shipping dont need anything extra.
 
Stay away from Squadron green or white putty.
It sands nice but shrinks for weeks and will be visible.
A good alternative is Tamiya basic putty. It has something in it where it does not shrink much if at all. Expensive but I use it on model planes.

Superglue is also good but you better sand it within a day or two before it gets hard as a rock!!
You can put it in a gap and hit it with accelerator or sprinkle a little baking powder on it to force it to cure.
Larger gaps you will need baking powder or use a thick type of superglue. Be careful about corners as superglue is hard to sand.

Have fun!
 
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