1/350 TOS E is happening.

This one will be my 3rd 1/350 from a another company

Placed my order for the 1701 club, then placed a second order for another kit and 2 sets of accessories. Fast way to drop $600+

Looking forward to it though.

Jedi Dade

I've always wanted a Master Replicas TOS. This is as close as I can get to finally getting my hands on one without spending that much - plus all the fun of building it - it's a double bonus. Have to plan on how to attack those gridlines and make it a smoothie - I'd most likely be using the apoxie sculpt

Anyone know if they accept paypal for the Club 1701 orders?

Yes
They will

Let's hope it's going to be possible to get one of these kits over here in the UK, who the hell thought anyone would want revell's poor attempt is beyond me.

The people at marketing need to realise that the UK is a pretty large market for things like this, they always forget us.

I go through similar headaches trying to source Doctor Who swag over here so I totally understand.

I don't think you'll have much trouble getting one on the secondary market whether you order one from a US or Canadian retailer who will ship overseas or the "old boy" network here can help. The added expense of shipping will be a killer to be sure but you'll be able to source one.

Unfortunately I don't think Polar Lights had any choice about selling overseas. It's all up to whoever has the deal with Paramount to make and sell hobby kits in Europe and the UK and I guess they've got it wrapped up pretty tight. I imagine their standpoint is that Revell is the more established company.

crackerjazz said:

...Have to plan on how to attack those gridlines and make it a smoothie - I'd most likely be using the apoxie sculpt

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Automotive "filling" primer is your best bet. Spray it on, then polish it back.

One can hope that Polar Lights and Revell AG can work a deal like the one cut with Moebius. Since Revell has the European Star Trek license, perhaps they could sell the PL kit under the ROG moniker?

wannab said:

Accessory pack - lighting kit plus photo etch for sure. Not sure what else. It may contain the registry decals or weathering decals. Don't think it contains the supplemental parts pack. Not totally clear on this one.



Doug

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The accessory pack is lighting kit, plus photoetch and the weathering decals all for $200 which is a savings of $35.99 compared to buying the three sets separately. If you don't want the weathering decals and want to save a little money, get just the lighting kit and the photoetch (for $185.99, a 14 dollar savings). I may get the accessory pack anyway since even though I won't use the weathering decals on my build, it is a nice reference for going about adding the streaks with paint or pastels. Other thing is that I don't know if PL's prices for the normal stuff will be standard retail or sale prices. You might get a better price break by shopping for those accessory bits elsewhere.

The Paragraphics photoetch set I'll probably get as it seems like the most effective way to light the bridge displays cleanly as the etch panels act perfectly as light blocks. Plus, Paul also has done the pilot bridge display screens (I liked that particular bridge a little better than the series one).

Concerning Revell and their less than accurate kit, I wouldn't judge it too harshly. It is what it is. Sure it may have some obvious shape flaws, but it is easy to build, fits and doesn't seem to have the droopy pylon problems we had to suffer through with the 18" models. I highly doubt Round 2 and Revell are going to partner up for the European market though because Revell's own kits can make money for Revell without the need to import something else.

This age of the web makes things moot anyway. I was able to order a Revell Enterprise through an eBay UK vendor and it shipped within a week back when it first came out. Same goes for the FineMolds Star Wars kits. Just place an order with HLJ.com and you get a 1/72 FMMF easily enough. I know, shipping, import duties and other things can be a hassle. But that is universal no matter where one lives in the world if a local source can't get something. I also periodically order stuff from Hannants in the UK that I can't get from vendors on my side of the pond. Only minor hassle there is I typically have to bulk up an order to meet the shipping minimum, but I accept that.

If you want it and have the finances, you will find a way to get it, no matter what might stand in your way.

It's not the accuracy issues as such, it's the fact that it's the same size as most things already out there.

JMChladek said:

The accessory pack is lighting kit, plus photoetch and the weathering decals all for $200 which is a savings of $35.99 compared to buying the three sets separately. If you don't want the weathering decals and want to save a little money, get just the lighting kit and the photoetch (for $185.99, a 14 dollar savings). I may get the accessory pack anyway since even though I won't use the weathering decals on my build, it is a nice reference for going about adding the streaks with paint or pastels. Other thing is that I don't know if PL's prices for the normal stuff will be standard retail or sale prices. You might get a better price break by shopping for those accessory bits elsewhere.

The Paragraphics photoetch set I'll probably get as it seems like the most effective way to light the bridge displays cleanly as the etch panels act perfectly as light blocks. Plus, Paul also has done the pilot bridge display screens (I liked that particular bridge a little better than the series one).

If you want it and have the finances, you will find a way to get it, no matter what might stand in your way.

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Yeah, I dug into it further after my post so I ended up getting the lighting kit and photo etch only. I don't need the weathering decals even as a reference (not accurate in my opinion).

I am anti gridline so I'll be interested to see what works best to eliminate those. Gonna be a lot of work.

Anyway, I can hardly wait to get my early Christmas present, been waiting for this since childhood! :thumbsup



Doug

I'm looking forward to seeing what others are going to do about the grid lines.

I've thought about the Mr Surfacer/Auto-Filling primer option. I've also considered putty too of course. Putty can occasionally backfire on you and crack over time so I'm a little hesitant about it. I've got projects I've used putty on and it hasn't cracked in 20 years or more and I've had stuff crack on me within months so the unpredictability factor has me nervous--I want a rock solid solution. Also it's just plain messy and stinky and I can't stand the stuff even though it is a fact of life when building models.

I'm leaning toward filling them in with plastruct rod and plastic weld. It's a cumbersome and messy solution as well but will ensure that the grooves are filled and won't crack or shrink--even though I have no doubt I might need a little filler putty with this method. I think it will also be easier to deal with at the edges of the hull and around the edges of the three rings on the underside of the hull since I'll be dealing with plastic rather than brittle putty.

I haven't completely ruled out putty, most likely Bondo or Evercoat, I'll undoubtedly be using the stuff to some extent I'm just really not liking the idea of it. It's ultimately down to the size of the channels.

I've also noticed that putty can melt the plastic in places too, which surprised me

Maybe someone who can contact the makers of the kit would consider selling "no grid lines saucer parts" to end the grid lines or no grid lines debate. I would think most here would spend the extra bucks to save themselves what looks like a alot of work.

While I really wish they could have done something like that I think the mold costs are just way too expensive to consider a "double hulled" option. I'm wondering when the first after-market smooth hulls are going to appear ;-)

TymerDC said:

Maybe someone who can contact the makers of the kit would consider selling "no grid lines saucer parts" to end the grid lines or no grid lines debate. I would think most here would spend the extra bucks to save themselves what looks like a alot of work.

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To do that, they would have to grind off a raised grid from the molds after they have been hardened. Not likely ever going to happen because it would irreversably change the molds.

Filling a finely etched grid is not "a lot of work" if somebody really wants to do it.

I can actually see an advantage to the gridlines. Before filling them in smooth, I can make a pencil "rubbing" of the gridlined surface on a piece of paper to serve as a guide when drawing them back on.

What an incredible kit !! Way to go Round 2 ! And big thanks to Modelman Tom for the comprehensive review on You Tube.

Dave

JMChladek said:

To do that, they would have to grind off a raised grid from the molds after they have been hardened. Not likely ever going to happen because it would irreversably change the molds. Filling a finely etched grid is not "a lot of work" if somebody really wants to do it.

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What are you smoking?......they are not going to ruin an already made mold and grind raised grid lines off......my idea is they make a new molds for the saucer parts minus the grid lines and sell them as a separate accessory. I really don't know the costs of making such a mold. They certainly already have all the cads done to machine duplicate ones......all they'd have to do is remove the grid lines in the computer. Weather its cost effective depends on how many people would buy them. Besides its just an idea and I honestly doubt they'd do it.

What am I smoking?

Might as well make a whole new kit if one is going to do that. The saucer sub-assembly is pretty dang large and there are recessed lines on the secondary hull and warp nacelles as well. So even with the saucer grid removed from parts, it still leaves other lines on the rest of the model that have to be taken care of the old fashioned way by the modeler.

A CAD file is only a start as there is also the cost of the tool and the expense involved with producing it and making sure it integrates properly with the other parts (such as the inside saucer molds). For the price they would end up having the charge for new saucer parts, not many people would end up buying it when only a few dollars for a bottle/tube of filler putty, primer, sanding films and some elbow grease could achieve the same result.