As I'm gearing up to paint my FX toy conversion, I'm debating using the "black primer, then white gloss, then Scotch-brite scuffing" technique described by Bill George.
Who has used this technique, and can you share your results?
With the plethora of X-Wings coming out, I think this (as a stand-alone thread) can benefit many.
I used that technique on a few panels but not the whole ship, just in a few key spots. It gave the finished paint job more depth I think. I've tried it both ways, the first one I built I didn't use the technique thinking that I'm going to paint over it anyway, but it definitely makes a difference to paint some areas black then cover it with the base coat.
Like on the left engine and in several spots on the wings and fuselage on this one.
http://sovereignreplicas.com/kgx_48.jpg
I used it all over Red Leader buddy, i was very happy how it all worked out, i used a matt black applied in several coats, then shot thin coats of gloss white on the whole parts layout, it looks like crap at this stage and youll think yourself crazy, trust me on this lol.
I then used the very fine steel wool, and rubbed...and rubbed lol, it gives a great effect IMHO.
Though it would depend on what X your painting if your using white, i think white would mainly work out for Reds 1 and 2.
The good benefit from this method, is, it adds a worn metal effect to the paint, almost patchy, but man the final finish is like glass to the touch!
lee
Then how should I paint my Red 5? I was going to do the flat black/gloss white.
I used 4 colors of primer.
1. Gray
2. Red Oxide
3. Black
4..... and white as the color coat. That's right! Primers. The white can be sanded, buffed, etc. It takes pastels well too. Those yellow panels on Red Five and Red Two that I did? Pastels. Nothing more. The reds were either thinned craft paint shot thru my Iwata, or Barn Red spray paint. Then all of this and the weathering effects were sealed with clear fixative or Krylon Matt clear. Depending on the spray concentration, the sheen would vary from dead flat to an almost metallic semigloss. Some of the panels had Future floor acrylic brush painted on for random sheens and reflectivity.
This really isn't hard. You just have to be willing to think unconventionally and use what works for you. I also made washes that were applied with a brush or dappled on with a sea sponge.
I'm old school. I don't really give a ***** what I use, as long as the desired result is achieved and the results are durable.
Don't let anything stop you. Build. Paint. Enjoy.
Last edited by Hand Solo; Sep 16, 2007 at 5:13 PM.
Listen to Bob LOL. That Red 2 looks studio quality, that's one of the finest X Wing's I've seen.
Great info! Can't wait to start mine.
Ok, showing how new I am to SS modeling here, what exactly are pastels? I have pastel crayon like things here, is that what is used?
Tripper said:
Artist chalks... when rendered a powder with an exacto knife by lightly scraping, can be applied to simulate just about anything.... rust. Dirt. Crud-in-General. The powders can even be mixed together to create different colors. Add just a little water and you can brush them on as a wash. Very effective for rust streaks and oil. A Q-tip is a very effective application tool, as is an old-fashioned Mark I digit.
Also, they're great for any kind of modeling, not just SS. These techniques are multi-disciplinary.
Awesome, I have some of those, so I'll use em on my Salzo kit. Thanks!
Tripper said:
No problem! Just be sure to seal 'em. You'll want to apply them rather heavily in places, especially the really light colors because the clearcoat or fixative can wash them out a little. A light mist coat of clear is usually enough to seal the effect and protect it. You can add more chalk on top of the clear and seal again if necessary.
What's been everyone's approach to determining if weathering on a model (as apparent in a ref pic) was original and intention, or real-world damage incurred over thee past 30 years...?
For example, in this shot...
Are the rust/brown splotches original, or chips suffered over the years?
Dunno!PHArchivist said:
If you look at my Red Five, you'll see a scorch mark on the inside of the lower left S-foil. Idiot me misinterpreted a shadow from the upper left laser lance in some screencaps! Caught that after I shipped it to Kurt. We laugh about that now.
Now that pattern of scratches you show matches what I've seen in the screencaps, so I believe they're original AND intentional and not from storage. But what do I know without being able to see the original live and in living color?
Great question lol, if one looks at pics of the Falcons now, you can see the real world damage done by fitting them to filming rigs etc etc, there are bent and broken panels and all sorts, so i think its safe to say most X wings got the same rough treatment.PHArchivist said:
For example, in this shot...
Are the rust/brown splotches original, or chips suffered over the years?
I guess to the guys back then they were indeed just tools and not really cared for, ascertaining what was weathered in and what is indeed an accidental scratch, would indeed be a pig of a job LOL.
lee
I thought of firing BB guns at it bro, thatll do the job hehe!
lee
(Nose cone pic) My personal opinion, I think thats intentional, and not accidental, simply because the brown is prelevant and outlines the scratch.
Damamge (generally) or accidental gashes would not be so in scale or kind, or even color coded for that matter, heh.
Hand Solo said:
You know what Bob you're dead right. I pulled out a book that has my favorite shot of Red 2 (the pic that renders Red 2 - for me - as the epitome of X-Wings) and those spots are there...
I've never seen that Pic of the Red 2 Nose before !
In which Book do you find it ?
Again, thumps upon your X-Wing Project !
Thanks
Andre
It's not from a book. It's a cropped image from a private collection taken at a museum display. I suppose it is debatable if I should post it.
Regarding the steel wool rub down technique...
What do you suppose ILM used in terms of grit for the wool? What have you used?
Should it be done before or after the livery markings?
Before or after the weathering?
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