Studio Scale TOS Enterprise(11.25 feet)

ATM,
This may be a stupid question (but that's why they call me "Dummy")..

Is the powder re-usable? or is the leftover powder from your 8"x10"x8" block like waste toner in a copier?
It's not a stupid question at all. Like I said I do forget stuff. It isn't like there are not a lot of steps to this process.
dscn0582ym9.jpg


The powder used in the part is done, the powder around the part is used again. The powder is fed from a bin(the rectangle on the left) next to the build area, that powder is spread across the build area(rectangle on the right) with a roller(the polished rod below the black box on the right) , the excess powder is then dumped into a bin(not visible) on the other side of the build area. It can get a bit messy the powder goes everywhere.

Secondly, how to you figure in the thickness of the bondo layer when you are milling the wooden under structure? Do you make everything like a 1/4 inch smaller than the final size? then add 1/2 " of bondo on top and mill that down to your final size?
I don't, I guess a thickness of about 1/8"-1/4" sometimes more. One of the problems of using bondo with this process is it leaves voids on the part. I've been getting better at laying up the bondo, but it sill happens.
dscn1706w.jpg

If you look closely at the part, you will see some of the voids I'm talking about. It's air gaps, and uncured bondo. That happens, using the methods I'm using it's inevitable. If it's bad enough I'll re-coat the part, and run it again. I guess at my thickness to give myself some some room to run the part again If there are any mistakes. I have much more to show of what else I do to these parts. But I didn't think to take pics, running these parts is so exciting it's almost like Christmas morning when I get a part done.

Thanks again guys for your kind words, I better get back to the shop.
 
thanks for taking the time to answer.

The wood and bondo combination fascinates me. did you come by that combination out of economy or stability? I imagine you looked at a number of materials that would let you go straight to the finished shape in one step ( like that super dense material they use for sandblasted signage) or blocks of super rigid styrofoam. Or is it because the bondo lets you fine tune the finish with spot putty the best?

See what you did? you let us geeks in on the process...there's no way to cork that genie back up :)
 
thanks for taking the time to answer.

The wood and bondo combination fascinates me. did you come by that combination out of economy or stability? I imagine you looked at a number of materials that would let you go straight to the finished shape in one step ( like that super dense material they use for sandblasted signage) or blocks of super rigid styrofoam. Or is it because the bondo lets you fine tune the finish with spot putty the best?

See what you did? you let us geeks in on the process...there's no way to cork that genie back up :)
I know, I'm one of you. I'm scary to walk around a store with, I know how they made almost everything. And there is no such thing as green manufacturing. :lol

It's a matter of both. Using a material such as Renshape would be great. But it's expensive in the sizes I need, and there isn't a local supplier in Phoenix(I couldn't find one). The cost of shipping would get a bit prohibitive, and I need material right now. I don't like to hold up the process a week while parts are being shipped. Then there is the waste, most of the material would be cut out in chunks or end up as dust. Using the method of laminating particle board allows me to create a base part with less waste and cost(and a lot of stability). I use bondo for for similar reasons, I can get it at Wallmart relatively cheaply, and it is very easy to work. I have at least 5 Wallmart's within a 20 minute drive of my house. My wife likes to joke about, "El Tour De Wallmart", yea she's a cyclist.
Bondo can be a pain, and there is much better stuff out there. But the cost outweighs the convenience. Especially when I need a lot of bondo. Using glazing putty and high build primer is a quick and easy way to fill in the pin holes. These method's were not figured out over a lot of trial and error. When trying to use MDF the surface was fuzzy, that could have been fixed with CA. But it's a real pain to get smooth, and pricey. Bondo was the next choice for a surface. I stayed with that because each material has tricks to working it. I have ripped off the deck of my router when a cutter hung up on a bit of bondo. It can get pretty strong.

For me speed is most important, I hate to wait for anything. I had a business almost go under because subcontractors had better things to do than make money, and meet deadlines. That's why I have the equipment I do, I like to get things done.
 
I wish I had space for one of these. I'd love one. Regardless, it's a great learning thread and you're doing a fantastic job.
 
I saw a news report about a mass-market 3D printer a few days ago.

The guy who designed it was interviewed by a reporter on CNBC or msnbc.

Anyhow, the printer is still priced well above what most people will pay. $1225. Still, it beats the alternatives had before!

One main limitation I saw was that the size of plastic materials was limited by the size of the housing (transparent plastic? glass?). I think the size limit was maybe 5"-7" high by 10" wide? Not practical for modeling unless you're making small or are patient and can afford to break models into smaller segments.

No mention was made of the plastic used in the printer...

Obviously, atemy has a more sophisticated set-up but thought I'd pop and mention the costs of the 'mass-market' 3D printer....
 
The low end printers have a long way to go, before they would be considered useful for the general public. People wouldn't be interested in the machine unless it made items that looked perfect. Those days are coming, but when is anybodies guess.

Here is some more...
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I thought you guys would like to see more process. The long two piece part is the accelerator, the one in Al's documents was way off. That's understandable it's not that simple a part. I was really racking my brains as to how to create it.
accelerator.jpg


Here is the original part, sadly it was modified from it's original state. Why is anybodies guess, most likely to make the SSM follow a set of fan made plans(that's what some of us think). This is the part I wanted to recreate.
I knew I was going to make the rail down the middle in styrene. So I sized it accordingly, to fit in a center channel. But I still had the problem of the rest of it.
That's where this tool comes in...
3dscanner.jpg

This a 3D scanner, now before people start screaming digital recasting. It's not that easy(I only wish it was). It scans to a maximum resolution of .004", an object is placed on a turntable, and the object is traced by a laser. But since it uses a laser there is problems in the laser scattering(the laser sees best with a matte light gray surface, but it still isn't perfect, I didn't paint this part). And that effects the scan, which means a lot work on the other end.
Here is what the raw scan looks like...
acceleratorrawscan.jpg

This was scanned from a part I know is accurate, the reason there is blank spots is the laser couldn't scan those sections. Because of the part's orientation in the scanner. I took this file and opened it in Rino...
accrino1.jpg

Above is a rendering of the part in Rino.

accrawconrino.jpg

Here is the scan data next to profiles that were taken off of the accelerator. In this pic the contours look good, but they are not, and they have to be redrawn, which means things are going to change. Plus this part scan is useless to me, it would not sit on the saucer I machined(not without a lot of modification). Besides I only cared about the part profiles.
My goal was not making an exact reproduction of this part, but to make a new part to match my model. Since the profiles were incomplete I filled in the missing sections.
Here is the completed part in rendered in Rino...
accfinalrino.jpg

See how it doesn't look quite right, that's a remnant of tracing the contours. Really I could care less, because I'm going to fix that in the printed part. All I needed was something to work from. If you look at the printed part it does look a little wonky. It's nothing that a bit of sanding couldn't correct. Another thing I did was rescale the part for the model, the part I scanned was about half the size of what I needed. The printed part was split so it would fit in my printer.

Like I said I was only after the part's contours, I hope I have shown that it isn't an exact copy of the part. I do not condone recasting, the idea that you can use my scanner to make an exact copy of a part is nearly impossible. I couldn't get that good a scan off of a part. No matter what I do I still have to recreate what I'm scanning. Which means it's going to change. I have directly printed parts from my scanner, normally it has very poor results.

To answer the question of where I put these parts. The printed parts are in my modeling room, the routed parts are in my garage(they stand easily on one end). Right now I'm rearranging my garage for this project. Lucky for me my router works on it's own, so I'm free to get other stuff done.

One other thing, Bondo is really nasty stuff, a router can be a better dust producer than sanding. My machine is contained and I have a exhaust system. Anybody using my techniques use with caution. I can't take any responsibility for what someone else does.
 
Wow, don't know how this slipped under my radar. What a fantastic build. Not only are you turning it into a tutorial on 3D printing and CNC milling, you are building an 11 foot 'fracking' Enterprise and making it look like a walk in the park! Much respect Sir! :)

Cheers
Nick
 
This is the sort of thing that make projects like this very satisfying.
dscn2036r.jpg

The parts are taped together to check fit. I set the bussard mount in front to also check fit.
nacelle1.jpg

The bench I have it on is a little bowed. I assure you They match.
Why am I showing these now, because I couldn't stack the parts in this manor before.
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Note the stacked pieces of particle board and MDF. One of the tricks I use is to add an extra board under the part. It gives me some breathing room when creating the part. As well as some additional clearance, the reason it's there is allow a tool I have to cut undercuts around each of the parts.
That gives me an edge to match the parts, But I have to mill off the additional wood below the part line. Sorry I don't have any pics of this process. I'm sure you guys will get the idea.

dscn2017m.jpg

These are the molds/jigs for the pylons. Note the rectangles at each end. Those are there to place the 1"x3" aluminum tube, it gives me a length, and sets the parts in position. The pylons themselves will be made out of fiberglass, since the weight of the nacelle will be carried by the aluminum tube. One other trick I did with these is to mill in the profile that matches the hull and nacelle. Which is the channel between the rectangle and the pylon. When these parts are finished the pylons will bolt into the armature.
I'll show that when I have the armature done.

dscn2028h.jpg

This is one of the bussard collectors. It is the pilot version, since it has a flat spot to accommodate the spike. It still has to be finished, I haven't made up my mind whether to make this one out of fiberglass, or blow mold it, or vacuum form it(I'm leaning toward blow molding). I did drill in an 1/8" hole in the center since I took the pic. I'm sure you guys will see these molds again.

Now while the router is running, I'm not sitting idle.
dscn2032y.jpg

I was working on this, the pic looks great. But you can't see all the pin holes I have to fill. But I did eliminate the tooling marks(groves left by the milling process). It still has a way to go before molding and I still have to add the sensor bands.

That's all for today.

Remember if you guys have any questions ask away.
 
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