Lol, think i got the wrong end of that question, but, ill try again, the U channel looks bonded around the outer hull edge, actually situated over the edge of the plexi.
Then the other brass rim is applied over that?
lee
Lol, think i got the wrong end of that question, but, ill try again, the U channel looks bonded around the outer hull edge, actually situated over the edge of the plexi.
Then the other brass rim is applied over that?
lee
If we understood Lorne correctly (Charles and I asked about this), both the U channel and rim are brass. Being brass, the rim is soldered (it would have to be silver soldered) to the U channel, then fit over the plexi edge. The rim is brass because it is sturdier than thin plastic, avoided a waving, warped looking edge.
Thanks, Jason! I want to thank you and the guys again for inviting me to add it to your display there. Having Lorne see it was one of the highlights of my artistic career! He was one of my childhood heroes ever since I saw The Making of Star Wars on TV in 1978 (or as Lorne called it, The 'Faking of' The Making of Star Wars). Since then I was more a fan of the ILM guys than the movie.
Holy moly Rick. This thing just dropped my jaw with awe. Looking seriously fresh Rick. The personal touches give it that slightly fresh look rather than the studio model offers from any angle. Almost studio accurate yet original though equal. Should stop staring at my parts & start buildingKeep up the good work.
Thanks, guys. Below is a photo that I didn't intend to take, but when I set it upright to make room to do other things I thought it would make a good addition to the progress pics. This shows how big it is. It is a lot bigger than my first 2 destroyer models, as this one is more than a foot longer.
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Last edited by ringa; Jun 6, 2011 at 6:54 AM.
Crikey! It's like the old ILM days all over again!
Top work!
Rich
Here I have the bulk of the trench detailing done. Still have to do a little sanding of resin here and there. My 8Rad parts also need the extra greeblies, though I can glue them on later, once I figure out what they are, that is.
I was both happy and sad that I found the PERFECT brass U channels. They fit the plexi edge like they were made for each other. Unfortunately, the hobby store I found them at are discontinuing ordering them, and I only have enough to complete one edge. At least I know they are out there to find more!
Next I am going to concentrate on mounting from the bottom and side. For now it is mounted from the rear where the middle engine will be. The stand is strong enough to hold it, but it is a long and heavy model, and balance becomes an issue.
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Off the top of my head, you need the Airfix Saturn V, the Nichimo 1/35 jagdtiger, a MG-34 from any of a number of kits with 1/35 soldiers in them...
...and, IIRC, the SD has the entire 8-Rad assembly that was cut down for either side of the Y-Wing, so you'd need landing gear from a 1/24 fighter, but I forget which one. Messer, maybe.
I'm no doubt missing a few...
Wow, you are moving fast! Looking great!You're inspiring me to get some work done on one of these over the summer. . .
Rick, if i still have it in my stash, i can send you some of the channel. Can you tell me the size you have used please, im sure i bought a pack of it from EMA a LOOOOONNNG time ago.
lee
Well i found 9 lengths of 1/8 brass U channel, but i think that may be too small?
lee
Lee, I really appreciate the offer. The channels I bought weren't marked. I brought a scrap piece of plexi with me and tried to find channels that fit. I don't have access to them now to measure, but the plexi I'm using is 3/32" thick. The opening on my channels fit the 3/32" plexi like it was meant to (perfectly). Is the 1/8" channel measuring the outside? If so, it might be what I need.
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Into work now Rick but im sure 1/8 equates to the overall width, so it could be the stuff, 3/32 sounds about right for the internal? Im terrible with imperial lol.
Ill get home in the AM and check, and if so, ill fire it over in the mail.
Lee
If the channel in question has a height of 1/8 inch (0.125) and the metal used is 0.015 inches thick, that would present an opening of 0.095 inch. That should be a perfect fit for a 3/32 inch thick panel edge. This is what I am guessing Rick has.
I spent most of last night working out a mounting system for the bottom of the model. It works fantastic. Now all I have to do is figure out how to make a side mounting.
When you're a drummer-turned-studio-scale-model-maker, it helps to have a lot of cymbal stands at your disposal...
I just never get sick of a Star destroyer from this angle...
You know this can't stay this way for long...
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Last edited by ringa; Jun 9, 2011 at 10:45 AM.
Does anyone know what parts were used in making the docking bay walls; sides and front/back? Were they scratch built? I want to get started on these, but I don't want to begin scratch building if there are parts.
Thanks!
Looks like this is the deal then Charles, outer is 1/8, wall is 0.01, and ive a scrap length of 3/32 brass rod that slots in fine.
Rick, shoot me your details in PM then bud, ill send it over.
lee
This one is looking to be a mouth watering juicy thing.
Keep up the good work.
I've begun work on the docking bays. I was able to cut out the openings in the bottom hull panels. I got a good start on the ceiling and trim around the main bay. Anyone know what was used to make the front wall, double bay doors? If I can't figure it out I will do what I usually do... make it up as I go.
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I am making good progress on the main docking bay. It's taking a long time to scratch build most of what's in there. I'm very close to finishing it. This is one of those areas on the model I would like to be as accurate as possible.
In the screen cap below, I've outlined the part(s) I need to make the forward, double bay openings. Does anyone know what that is made from?
Thanks!
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